Jump to content

Trail boss running boards

paul0609
 Share

Recommended Posts

paul0609 Enthusiast

paul0609

Posted
Posted

Looking at purchasing a trail boss but after taking one for a drive I felt it was a big step in, I am not really concerned about it for myself but my wife may grow tired of jumping up into the truck and we also have two small kids. 

I was looking at adding the gm rectangular assist step with the deal but I am not sure if that will help the step up into the truck, or if I am better off going with some hoop side steps that come down a little more.  If there is anyone out there with a trail boss with side steps do they make entering and exiting the vehicle easier? Pics would be great.

i am used to getting into my 2500hd with the factory side steps so I figured this would be pretty similar I just can not find a trail boss at the dealer with side steps to try it out. 

 

Thanks

EB6482BD-E645-4861-A950-6FF2EA6657DF.jpeg

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

HapaTrailBoss
HapaTrailBoss

My steps have saved my truck many times.. entry and exit is definitely easier with assist steps.   GM factory "off-road" style step.

towdog333
towdog333

Mine came with the running boards n like the them

Booger T
Booger T

I have the same ones on my TB. Definitely make getting in and out easier.

Posted Images

19TrailBoss Enthusiast

19TrailBoss

Posted
Posted

I have the rough country running boards in my trail boss, and they certainly helped make the vehicle easier to get in and out of. My 7 year old is able to jump in and out without assistance now.

The rough country are much cheaper, and match the appearance of the trail boss much better than the oe running boards, imho at least. IMG_20190224_124349.jpg

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Michael621 Enthusiast

Michael621

Posted
Posted

I prefer the tubular version. I have had the flat version on vehicles in the past, and they always seemed to catch a bunch of road debris.

IMG_0216.jpeg

Booger T Enthusiast

Booger T

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, Michael621 said:

I prefer the tubular version. I have had the flat version on vehicles in the past, and they always seemed to catch a bunch of road debris.

IMG_0216.jpeg

I have the same ones on my TB. Definitely make getting in and out easier.

  • Like 1
paul0609 Enthusiast

paul0609

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I like both of those options a little better.  I live in the up peninsula of Michigan and they use a lot of salt on the roads so I am not sure how those would hold up.  I have the same step as the rough country ones on my silverado now but they are stainless steel so I don't have to worry about rust.

I looked at some aluminum options from DeeZee that looked pretty nice though.  The tubular ones definitly look a little more fitting.

Windmill Greaser Enthusiast

Windmill Greaser

Posted
Posted (edited)

truck.jpg.e592a1725c2fb97cd20b96bd47d3af49.jpgI like my flat running boards , As for dirt I have cleaner and rags to wipe down every other day. I got into a bad habit of not useing them to excit the truck,and this will surely wreck the seat . My bad habit will change this weekend 

Edited by Windmill Greaser
paul0609 Enthusiast

paul0609

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Everyone's Trail Boss looks really nice, I am partial to the Satin Steel, I was wondering how you think the finish is on the Black OE step bars.  I thought the round ones were steel and the flat ones like I showed in my top pic were possibly aluminum.  I would really like somthing that can withstand all the winter abuse without being shining (stainless steel).  Any input would be great.

 

 

  • Like 1
Windmill Greaser Enthusiast

Windmill Greaser

Posted
Posted

Here in Canada lots of snow and ice so flat I think is better for slippery ice  . Also the flat Satin is so easy to clean . A bit of cleaning spray and a wipe and all good.  Also bought a small umpire brush to simply sweep out debris from floor mat.This model year has no ledge to stop debris from being swept out. Great feature no vacuum required 

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Robert63 New Member

Robert63

Posted
Posted
On 6/13/2019 at 5:25 AM, Michael621 said:

I prefer the tubular version. I have had the flat version on vehicles in the past, and they always seemed to catch a bunch of road debris.

IMG_0216.jpeg

 

  • 4 months later...
Chanc3 New Member

Chanc3

Posted
Posted

Will running boards from previous gen 2018 down fit on the new body styles 2019 and  up? Gmc Sierra ? 

jamesonjc Enthusiast

jamesonjc

Posted
Posted

looking at the NFAB ones for my 2020 custom TB-  had them on a 16 loved them - 17 ltz has the flat black ones - 

  • 1 month later...
MotorCitySierra Enthusiast

MotorCitySierra

Posted
Posted
On 6/13/2019 at 8:37 AM, Booger T said:

I have the same ones on my TB. Definitely make getting in and out easier.

I really like these. Do you mind telling me what size/brand they are? I'm trying to decide between 3/4/5 inch,  Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Vehicle Payments

      By KARNUT · Posted

      This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • UrbanRage
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By UrbanRage · Posted

      I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...