Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Let me start with the beginning of when this all began, 3 nights ago I removed a power wire circuit breaker that was in-line to my sub amp, I connected the sub power terminal directly to my battery (dangerous move I know) 2 nights ago I removed and re-twirled my remote power wire and re-inserted it into the amp
Yesterday when leaving work I finally heard my sub kick on for the first time in a month, this morning I tried to crank my truck and it would make a subtle click and nothing else, no power to my instrument panel, radio no nothing. I replaced the battery today and had no luck after, and there wasnt even a "click" after trying to start the truck. So I removed and re-inserted some fuses on all 3 fuse blocks on the truck and when trying to crank, I can hear the entire dash for the most part gets power except radio, and instrument panel. We ran a voltage tester for all fuses except the larger silver ones, so we swapped the silver ones around to see if it helped and had no luck. I will list the accessories that do not work vs which ones do.
Accessories that DONT work

  1. Horn
  2. Radio or Instrument Panel Dash Lights
  3. Starter
  4. Power Windows

 

Accessories that DO work

  1. Overhead lights
  2. Keys lock and unlock truck

I'm thinking its some sort of accessory power wire short or something but I wanted to get 2nd opinions. 

Posted
21 minutes ago, covrt said:

Let me start with the beginning of when this all began, 3 nights ago I removed a power wire circuit breaker that was in-line to my sub amp, I connected the sub power terminal directly to my battery (dangerous move I know) 2 nights ago I removed and re-twirled my remote power wire and re-inserted it into the amp
Yesterday when leaving work I finally heard my sub kick on for the first time in a month, this morning I tried to crank my truck and it would make a subtle click and nothing else, no power to my instrument panel, radio no nothing. I replaced the battery today and had no luck after, and there wasnt even a "click" after trying to start the truck. So I removed and re-inserted some fuses on all 3 fuse blocks on the truck and when trying to crank, I can hear the entire dash for the most part gets power except radio, and instrument panel. We ran a voltage tester for all fuses except the larger silver ones, so we swapped the silver ones around to see if it helped and had no luck. I will list the accessories that do not work vs which ones do.
Accessories that DONT work

  1. Horn
  2. Radio or Instrument Panel Dash Lights
  3. Starter
  4. Power Windows

 

Accessories that DO work

  1. Overhead lights
  2. Keys lock and unlock truck

 

I'm thinking its some sort of accessory power wire short or something but I wanted to get 2nd opinions. 

Welcome to the site.

 

Thinking you might have damaged your BCM, or ECU, the electronics are very finicky in the new trucks.

 

You can destroy either one by not doing the proper steps while jump starting another car.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Anyone have a fix ? Just swapped my cam. Put whole truck back together and exact same symptoms above. 

 

No horn no dash lights. Wont turn over. Even remote start fails.

Only 1 headlight turns on. Opposite side blinker works other doesnt. Driver side mirror light doesnt turn on. Passenger side does. Interior dome lights turn on once key is removed. Dome lights dont activate when door is opened. 

 

No clue where to start

 

Posted

Issue is the mega fuses. Likely the 175A on the battery head thats feeding the cable which runs from battery to the other side.

 

Replace that  should have it all back to normal

 

16358754972055255542549593548630.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Where can a replacement for this be found? Mines a 17 5.3 Sierra and it’s starting to show some stupidity that goes away after moving battery cables around. 

Posted
On 5/14/2020 at 8:33 PM, JimCost2014 said:

Welcome to the site.

 

Thinking you might have damaged your BCM, or ECU, the electronics are very finicky in the new trucks.

 

You can destroy either one by not doing the proper steps while jump starting another car.

 

I assume that your talking about the standard jump starting procedures, but maybe you know something I don't? Is there any special instructions to avoid damaging the computers on the newer Chevy rigs?

 

What steps do you take in a jump start? Does it involve bendy straws?

Posted
2 hours ago, DeePa said:

Where can a replacement for this be found? Mines a 17 5.3 Sierra and it’s starting to show some stupidity that goes away after moving battery cables around. 

Moving cables around? You mean twisting the terminals back and fourth by hand? If so, then:

 

If you move the cables at all by hand, they are too loose.

If you can not move them by hand, you could still have a bad connection.

Posted
4 minutes ago, Supreme Pizza said:

 

I assume that your talking about the standard jump starting procedures, but maybe you know something I don't? Is there any special instructions to avoid damaging the computers on the newer Chevy rigs?

 

What steps do you take in a jump start? Does it involve bendy straws?

Yes, that is how I do it. How did you know?

 

No owner's manual needed for you, well, you probably wrote it......

Posted
11 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

Yes, that is how I do it. How did you know?

 

No owner's manual needed for you, well, you probably wrote it......

 

 

There may be something that I do not know about the newer Chevys jump start procedures.

 

You said that you have heard of improper jump start procedures damaging the computers.

 

What was the cause? Bumpers touching? Improperly attached jumper cables?

 

Is it something strait forward like that, or is there something specific on the newer Chevys that you have heard about?

 

Like having the headlights on, or having the engine revved up or something?

 

 

 

thumb_156296078_4247666895264917_6184494

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...