Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Looking at new trailers is mind-boggling there must be a hundred different floor plans in the 28'-30' class. So many manufacturers too. The Alpha Wolf is said to be one of Forest River better built trailers. Rockwoods are pretty nice too.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Posted

I looked at one of these a couple weeks ago.
Wildwood 24RLXL. Also by Forest River. 28''9" 5080 dry weight 7000gvw
They are pretty decent also but more of a entry level trailer but priced at just over 17G I don't think you could go wrong de4606cda77c71823b86f788c3122fc2.jpg27071be7c95e1031b458dc247e1a6ee4.jpgc4934fbc42a01d6b56ea8066bac93be2.jpg17687aea76d781f2c5ab7fcc145ff277.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Posted

I remember when I was first looking a couple of years ago, experienced forum members suggested that I rent before I buy. 

I ignored their good advice which I regret.    There is a lot of extras you may purchase that you don't need and there are a lot of unpredicted needs you will discover with some experience.  Many RV places will make deals if you rent and then decide to purchase one of their units.  RVing is potentially exciting and a lot of fun but it is a significant commitment. Take your time.

  • Like 2
Posted

Donny is right. Take your time and don't get ripped off. Don't let them sell you a bunch of extra stuff you could buy cheaper elsewhere. I'd also be willing to travel to get the trailer you want at the best price. A couple dealers in Ohio have the best prices in the nation. They beat every dealer near me in Minnesota by thousands.
Another thing is warranty work.
It's a pain in the ass. A lot of little things you are better off just taking care of it yourself. Dealers are backlogged months in some cases. So when you buy it go over everything with a fine tooth comb and have them fix anything before you take delivery.


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/10/2020 at 8:50 PM, Brandon Raphael Mattingly said:

So I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 5.3 3.42 gears with towing package(not NHT).  I have installed Bilstein 5100s on all four corners. Tow mirrors being shipped as we speak. Air bags are up next.  Here is my dilemma. My wife has her heart set on a Forest River Vibe 32BH.  It is 38 feet long, dry weight of 7400#, cargo capacity of 2300# and a hitch weight of 930# fully loaded.  I don’t plan to ever haul with full water, and I highly doubt I ever put 2300# of gear in it. We plan on towing it in our local area with 1 trip a year from Virginia to New York.  I will also be the only one in the vehicle when towing as she and the kids will go in our van.  Just want to get some of your thoughts on this setup. Thank you. 

I really think that’s too much trailer for your truck.  I’m much shorter at 26 feet and I’m betting I’m over on payload.  I’ll find out for sure when I hit the scales this week.  Advertised hitch weight on mine is like 520 lbs, but who knows what it really is.

Posted

One other thing that I should add is wind resistance can really rob your fuel economy at highway speeds.  A travel trailer is traditionally shaped like a brick.  My neighbor's grandson designed his camper with aerodynamics in mind.

 

1447979989_Fuselagecamper(2).thumb.jpg.24acd957d1e8274762df5c9a2ee6fbeb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/10/2020 at 8:50 PM, Brandon Raphael Mattingly said:

So I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 5.3 3.42 gears with towing package(not NHT).  I have installed Bilstein 5100s on all four corners. Tow mirrors being shipped as we speak. Air bags are up next.  Here is my dilemma. My wife has her heart set on a Forest River Vibe 32BH.  It is 38 feet long, dry weight of 7400#, cargo capacity of 2300# and a hitch weight of 930# fully loaded.  I don’t plan to ever haul with full water, and I highly doubt I ever put 2300# of gear in it. We plan on towing it in our local area with 1 trip a year from Virginia to New York.  I will also be the only one in the vehicle when towing as she and the kids will go in our van.  Just want to get some of your thoughts on this setup. Thank you. 

My .02 you won't have any fun towing that trailer. I have towed at 32' Jayco Jayflight G2 around the same weight and it wasn't a good experience. Even with weight distribution and anti sway the tail will wag the dog on a 1/2 ton. Especially with a rig going by you.

Bernoulli's principle the moving air between the truck and car as the truck speeds by causes a decrease in air pressure between the car and truck. The car moves closer to the truck as it passes.

The trailer does this with my 2500 HD some and is much worse with the 1/2 ton. My father in law who drove a rig will not tow the trailer with his F150.

I would say if you are staying local or off the interstate it will pull it but I would avoid a long trip.

Hope that helps some.

Posted

Yes thank you all for your inputs. I have got my wife talked into an ultra light. It is still 36 feet long but it’s dry weight is around 6700. Based on what you guys have said I’m hoping that will tow much better. 

Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, Brandon Raphael Mattingly said:

Yes thank you all for your inputs. I have got my wife talked into an ultra light. It is still 36 feet long but it’s dry weight is around 6700. Based on what you guys have said I’m hoping that will tow much better. 

Make sure to look at anti sway bars as well as a weight distribution hitch.

No need to buy them from the RV dealer either. I'd go to a trailer shop as they will sell you what you need not what they can make the most money on.

 

Post some pics of your setup when you get it.

Edited by dquest
Typo
Posted
On 7/27/2020 at 7:34 PM, Brandon Raphael Mattingly said:

Yes thank you all for your inputs. I have got my wife talked into an ultra light. It is still 36 feet long but it’s dry weight is around 6700. Based on what you guys have said I’m hoping that will tow much better. 

So you settle on one that is 2 ft shorter and 700 lbs lighter.

There is literally no difference from this to what you originally wanted. It's still too much trailer for a half ton truck to tow comfortably. You will not like towing it I guarantee. Another thing, 6700 lbs is not an "Ultra Lite".

36 ft is better suited for a 3/4 ton truck period.

Also nobody tows a dry weight trailer. By the time you get propane and gear you are already over 7000 easy.

I'm not saying it can't be done but I wouldn't go over 30-31 ft with a 1/2 ton. I don't care what it weighs. Length is a huge factor here too.

Posted

I pulled all kinds of trailers during my working life. Mostly goose neck and fifth wheel. I grew to hate it. That being said I consider it because of covid. Then making a short exploratory trip checking out the new lay of the land. I got a reminder. Following a tractor trailer a sudden storm with high winds hit. The tractor trailer wipe out in front of me. I thought for sure I was going to get rear ended. If I was bumper pulling a TT I’m pretty sure I would have wrecked. I’m sticking to a car traveling and hotels. I would suggest if you have to do it. A dually and fifth wheel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi everyone. I'm jumping in to get some advice, and hopefully it will help the OP as well. I have the same specs: 2017 Double Cab 1500, 5.3, 3.42 gears, z71, Bilstein 5100s. Stock under the hood, stock brakes. And I do not have the max trailering package. I do have integrated brake controller and the trailer will have brakes.

 

I'm looking at a camper with dry weight of 6500, GVWR 7800 lbs fully loaded with cargo, 31.5' overall length. 

 

I want to assume I will hit the max payload for the trailer, just to be safe. I'd like to get the board's thoughts on if this is too much trailer for my truck. Obviously a 2500 would be better, but that's not an option right now so please do not suggest I get a new truck, lol. I'll be towing through KY, TN, and GA, so pretty hilly.

 

If you think this is too much, I want to know your thoughts on why GM rates these trucks at 9,000 lbs if 7,800 is too much to tow.

Posted
Hi everyone. I'm jumping in to get some advice, and hopefully it will help the OP as well. I have the same specs: 2017 Double Cab 1500, 5.3, 3.42 gears, z71, Bilstein 5100s. Stock under the hood, stock brakes. And I do not have the max trailering package. I do have integrated brake controller and the trailer will have brakes.

 

I'm looking at a camper with dry weight of 6500, GVWR 7800 lbs fully loaded with cargo, 31.5' overall length. 

 

I want to assume I will hit the max payload for the trailer, just to be safe. I'd like to get the board's thoughts on if this is too much trailer for my truck. Obviously a 2500 would be better, but that's not an option right now so please do not suggest I get a new truck, lol. I'll be towing through KY, TN, and GA, so pretty hilly.

 

If you think this is too much, I want to know your thoughts on why GM rates these trucks at 9,000 lbs if 7,800 is too much to tow.

They rate them at that number because IMO on paper it is capable and real world do able.

Now a real world question. Do you feel comfortable towing 9000 lbs?

I wouldn't. That's me.

Your numbers are on the edge for me. Keep the cargo light and I think your good.

Get a good hitch.

Remember you ain't gotta go 75 mph . 65 is plenty if you ask me.

 

 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I wouldn't do that either.  Flat for a short distance (hour or two ) I'd be ok with but hills through that area are a no go.

 

I have pulled our 31ft tt through that area and will only use a 2500 for it.

 

Have done it with an F150 and it felt like the trailer was pushing the truck. Was not a fun experience.

Hope that helps some .

  • Like 1
Posted
21 hours ago, alodawg26 said:

Hi everyone. I'm jumping in to get some advice, and hopefully it will help the OP as well. I have the same specs: 2017 Double Cab 1500, 5.3, 3.42 gears, z71, Bilstein 5100s. Stock under the hood, stock brakes. And I do not have the max trailering package. I do have integrated brake controller and the trailer will have brakes.

 

I'm looking at a camper with dry weight of 6500, GVWR 7800 lbs fully loaded with cargo, 31.5' overall length. 

 

I want to assume I will hit the max payload for the trailer, just to be safe. I'd like to get the board's thoughts on if this is too much trailer for my truck. Obviously a 2500 would be better, but that's not an option right now so please do not suggest I get a new truck, lol. I'll be towing through KY, TN, and GA, so pretty hilly.

 

If you think this is too much, I want to know your thoughts on why GM rates these trucks at 9,000 lbs if 7,800 is too much to tow.

You will have ample pulling power.  I've pulled similar weights with my V6.   However, I am sure you can find a trailer that is 5' or so shorter that will be a much more comfortable tow.  When we are first time buyers our reference points are our home or apartment.  We tend to want features and comforts that replicate our main accommodations.  Living in a trailer is different and your needs change accordingly.  Towing around extra space to unroll his and her yoga mats while watching prime on a 65" Samsung by the light of an electric fireplace will make for more stressful driving and single digit mpg's. Rent or borrow for a couple of weekends prior to purchase.   Chances are you'll love the experience and learn that your needs are more basic than you may think.  Start with beds and a bathroom and the rest is gravy!  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...