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Showing results for tags 'fuse'.
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This is my first post so sorry if I’m all over the place. I’ve had my 2014 Sierra slt for about two years now. I got it with 116k miles and I’m at about 174k right now. Since the day I’ve bought the truck it’s been nothing but issues. You name it, it’s happened. Four separate water leaks (sunroof, gps antenna, third brake light, and cab vents), 2 transfer case control modules, problems with the power steering going out, brakes going out at low speeds. A couple of months ago my transmission went out and it also needed various other repairs totaling over $20k. Now my park assist sensors don’t work, my rear doors don’t open from the inside and also don’t lock from the outside, reverse lights and camera don’t work, and it constantly dings at me to service my trailer brake system (seriously, it chimes at me about every two seconds as I’m going down the road, telling me to service the trailer brakes). I’ve gone through and checked every ground I can find and nothing helps. Today I went through every single fuse and relay in the truck. I found a couple of blown fuses and replaced as needed, but still no change. I’m at a loss for what to do at this point as I’m stuck with the truck after all the money I’ve sunk into it. Does anybody maybe have any solutions to any of these problems? I’m desperate for answers, anything helps. -
Got my full console from Ebay used in like new condition. I did alot of research to figure out how to wire it so all the functions would work. I.e. wireless phone charger and usb/ cigarette liter ports for the rear passenger. I have a currently have a 22 2.7l Custom that doesn't have the required connection under the front passenger seat. After hours of looking at schematics and testing wires, I managed to hard wire my center console to the fuse box on the passenger side. Wire on the CC harness to Fuse box Both Red/white to F5 (Battery positive) Violet to F20 (Accessory on) Violet/yellow to F23 (Accessory on) BOTH Black to Ground below the Fuse box. The only section I wasn't able to get working yet is the USB in the middle of the console (the one with the map SD card). This one I believe needs to be connected to the radio that has the built in navigation. (once I get one I'll update this post.
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Does anyone know how to hook up the 12v constant power to the run lights in my trailer? They definitely work on our dodge 3500, but on my 2014 Sierra 1500 they don't. My only assumption is its not hooked up from the factory. Is it as simple as the older model GM trucks? Hook up a wire to the post by the fuse box and plug in a fuse for that location? Cheers -
Hi folks! Yesterday I was leaving home depot and my truck wouldn't start. I ended up jumping my truck and bought a new battery (3 years, 50k miles and the original battery seemed about right time to need replacement). I installed the new battery and noticed that my front passenger and rear passenger blinkers were not working. I ended up finding a blown right turn signal fuse and replaced it but am still having issues. Checked all other fuses in all 3 fuse panels and they are ok. When I started the truck I found out that my radio/ac/backup camera were not working as well and that the display constantly says service 4wd. Might also be other issues that I have not uncovered yet. When I connected the positive terminal I noticed a little spark but did not think anything of it. I've replaced batteries before and this seemed nothing out of the ordinary. After researching it seems like weird electrical issues all trace back to the BCM. I believe that the turn signals are controlled by the BCM as well, so this also points to it being the BCM. Does anyone know if a reset is possible for the BCM and if that might help my problem? Most of the BCM items I've found about resetting have to do with security system related issues. Can anyone confirm the correct way to perform a BCM reset? Kinda ticks me off that a simple battery replacement could cause other problems...very easy to engineer in circuit protection to sensitive electronics. Truck is 2014 Silverado crew cab, 4wd, 50k miles. All help is MUCH appreciated! Thanks! -
So I was out at glamis Sand dunes over the hallween weekend and I took my 2015 1500 out into the Sand dunes to drive around. After some moderate dune basing I crested a dune a moments later the side curtain airbags deployed. Long story short, Im looking for a way to disable to side curtain airbags to avoid future deployment when out in the desert. But I have had no real luck locating a fuse to pull in order to achieve this. Does anyone know where I can find that fuse? -
Hi all. Long story short, I wired up my CB and dashcam to an open fuse in the drivers-side fuse block, and fried the whole thing. (Really!) Cost me a good bit to get it replaced. The dealer said I was drawing too much to tap in to there, and I should go to the engine fuse block instead. I've tested all the open ones on my truck (an LT) and didn't find anything with power with the key on. Does anyone know if any of the full ones are safe to pull? Or how are other doing it? Thanks in advance!
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Hello All, I have been working to find why my right side trailer turn signal won't work. I went to check the fuse for the trailer rights side #1 in my fuse block. The fuse does not make good snug fit like the others. You can wiggle it back and forth quite easily. This is an issue as I test my plug at the bumper and I get almost nothing on the right turn/brake pin vs the left turn/brake pin. Anyone have this issue and how did you solve it? TIA, AL
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Hello! To whomever may have any advice. I recently bought a 2005 gmc single cab with a 6.0 4l80e that wouldn’t start unless you put a little fuel down the intake and jump the starter(which I didn’t do bc I’d rather fix the problem logically). Anyways so a problem that I found is that he had actually broken the ignition interlock cable on the steering column and you were actually able to turn the key by hand but turning it to the start position wouldn’t do anything other than a like if you would say meh out loud that’s literally what the engine or I believe the electrical would sound like when you turned the key into that position. So I replaced the wire from a donor steering column which was a PAIN!!! anyways I have the original column in with the new wire but it’s still not trying to start at all. I also noticed that the throttle body doesn’t open when you press the Gas and you can’t push it open. It also makes a small humming noise like it wants to try to open and slightly vibrates. Also so I jumped the 87 pin on the starter relay to the positive and the engine turns over but won’t fire and start. I’m assuming that it’s a fuel problem(yes I put fuel in the tank today 7gals). So my next theory is going to maybe test the starter? I’m not really educated on this stuff but I do have the tools for the most part. Any advice would be appreciated. ALSO it has a newer ignition Solenoid and it has the lock and car light on the dash so I’m not sure if the new keys have to be programmed and that has anything to do with it? Maybe? But I’m not sure and thank you again! I’ll post a link to a YouTube video tomorrow to show exactly what’s going on and what I’m working with for a visual!
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Shorted out my battery jumping a piece of equipment. Engine shut off right away. Now I only have power to locks and lighting. Can’t find a blown fuse. Is there a main fuse on these anymore?
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My 2002 chevy Avalanche 1500 Z71 5.3l has 37s mud tires on it, 20 inch rim's, and the abs light turns on and turns right back off on the high way, and then stays off, i heard it not very good for off roading either, which is something i enjoy doing, i read, and some people really hate ABS as it turns out. And they said to just pull the fuse, after i pulled the fuse, i expected the abs light to turn on, but when i looked both the ABS and Brake light were on, any ideas how i can turn that brake light off? The truck still stops good, and there are no problems, just a stupid brake light. -
No Power At Fuse Box for Trailer Lights
jkrosky posted a topic in 2015-2019 Silverado HD & Sierra HD
I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD High Country with 6.6 diesel equipped with tow package. It has dedicated trailer brake and trailer fuses within the primary fuse box under the hood. My passenger side trailer blinkers and brake lights are not working. I've traced the lack of 12v power all the way up to the 10a fuse dedicated to the right side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #17). I have replaced the fuse, re-tested, and still no power. The left side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #14) has 12v power going to it, tested on the top of the fuse when the flashers are on, but the right side has nothing. I've also swapped and then replaced the trailer parking lights relay switch (relay #63) and still nothing. Is this most likely an issue with fuse box or something else supplying power or ground to the fuse box? Thanks for the help... this is the craziest thing. -
Short novel coming.. my 2006 Silverado was throwing 0499 code so replaced fuel cap, purge and valve solenoids.. check engine light still on. Didn’t bother checking power of course, took her to the stealership and $220 later found out that the system wasn’t getting juice. The fuse was fine, but the fuse terminal in the fuse box was loose or faulty so was only getting intermittent power. They told me they did a “temp fix” to it but that if the light came back on i might need a new fuse box. Sure enough next day the light comes back on.. How hard is it to replace a fuse terminal? Honestly I’m having trouble even figuring out how to remove the fuse box itself, looks different than all the ones I’ve seen on YouTube. Should any old mechanic be able to do this or do i need to take her back to the dealership? Do i need to replace the ENTIRE fuse box? Thanks..
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I have a 99 Silverado 1500 with the floor shift transfer case. I’ve been having an issue with my 4wd fuse on the interior fuse panel. Whenever I turn the key the fuse instantly blows wether I’m in 2wd or 4wd hi and low. I’ve seen around that that fuse is for the front axle actuator so I looked around and couldn’t find any obvious shorts, could it be a short in the motor itself?
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I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 LT2, I bought it a week ago (got a steal, $15,000 and it's a crew cab!) but one of the reasons I was able to negotiate such a good price was because the windshield wipers didn't work and it wasn't just the fuse so the dealer didn't want to try to figure out the issue. After little research I discovered that occasionally on some trucks the engine fuse box has a wiring problem so it needs to be replaced. Easy fix, right? I buy one on eBay for $50 and replace it last night, takes 3 minutes. Turn the key to ON and the wipers work. Great, all is well I thought... ...then half an hour later I go to my truck to drive to a friend's house and when I turn the key to START the truck doesn't respond at all. I'm assuming my transponder key was tied to the fuse box somehow. I swap the fuse boxes and it starts right up but again, I have no windshield wipers. One option I have is to tear into the fuse box and repair the broken wire for my wipers but I would literally have to drill it out of its casing so I'm not trying to get in that deep. I would rather program the key to the new fuse box. But here's the catch 22, you need one programmed key to work before you can program another spare key. If I swap the fuse box and my wipers work, my key won't work and I can't program it or another spare. Is there another way to program a key? -
I have a 2018 Chevy Silverado Texas edition. My question involves my trucks 120VAC outlet and the many 12VDC outlets. I want to power a device that requires 300 watts from my truck. It’s a powerful laptop charger basically. the 120V outlet my truck comes with is a pathetic 150 watts. Can anything be done about that? Also, I can use a 300 watt AC/DC inverter instead. The inverter works fine but that puts 25 amps through my cigarette lighter which blows the 15 amp fuse. can I swap the fuse for a 30amp? I know of fords with 30 amp fuses. Seems like my truck is electrically very wimpy. Surely the outlet and cable is rated for 30+ amps so I should be fine.... right? -
I've searched the forum but found no useful information. I just purchased a 19999 Silverado 1500. The truck came with no keyless entry remotes. The power door locks do not work at all. When I push the lock/unlock button I can here a clicking inside the doors the first time I push it. All subsequent pushes of the button result in no noise. The locks operate easily manually and with the key. What I've tried so far: 1. checked and tested all the fuses and relays in the fuse panel at the end of the drivers side dash. All the fuses and relays are good. Does anyone have any other ideas about what to check before I rip off both door panels and replace the actuators? -
Here’s my 2015 Silverado 1500 LTZ 4x4. Got a 6 inch Trailmaster lift with 24 inch replicas and 37 inch rbps. Should I do a gear change? If so, what?
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I was recently wiring an aftermarket switch and the terminals got bent and the positive and ground leads made contact and after several sparks the visor lights went out, left brake light and blinker will not function, and left side windows (front and back) stopped working. There’s no power getting to it at all. Also when it’s dark and the auto sensor turns the lights on, when I apply the brake the instrument cluster backlight cuts off and lights up again when i let off the brake. Total electrical screw up and i found out that this is causing a serious issue. Started smelling burning rubber and metal both through the air vents and outside the truck while standing by it. I later found out it’s shorting and getting severely hot around the right side of the mega fuse connected to the battery. So bad that it’s melted the plastic on the fuse and the fuse mount, rubber around the ends of the wire is melted and the bolts have become brittle. I’ve since replaced the fuse, need to replace the fuse mount. Still need to find where the ground is. Here’s the tricky part, tested the continuity of all fuses inside the cab and under the hood. MOST fuses in the cab ARE NOT even getting power, yet some are. None of the fuses are burnt or blown in both locations. Under the hood, some are not getting power but most are. I’m not savvy enough to know what the issue is but my thoughts are the problem lies between the battery and the fuse boxes. Maybe a burnt wire causing the ground? Bad wires? I have no clue...can anyone help? Any ideas, solutions, has anyone dealt with this? Also the lock and unlock will not work, yet you can hear the relay clicking when you press the button on the front doors and on the key fob. The lights blink, and even the alarm sounds if a door is opened but they do not lock or unlock. Thanks in advance! P.S. this is causing the engine to cut off due to the wires connected to the mega fuse losing contact. As i drive, with enough rattle they lose contact, and I lose power and eventually the engine cuts off. I have to jump it off constantly and pray that I make it where i’m going. It rattles back in contact and then back out. So I need to fix this quick, it’s killing my battery and straining my alternator.
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My fuse blows at four drive terminal, push buttons flashes and transfer case module in gages on and off. Have to pull fuse to drive truck 2 wheel drive. Thanks
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I have a 2015 3500 HD 4x4. Today I pulled the cover on the fuse panel on the driver's side dash to look for the fuse that I could move to make my 12V plugs in the center dash switched power instead of retained power. When I got the panel off, the diagram plastered on the inside of the panel did not look anything like the fuse panel in my truck. Nor did the diagram in my owner's manual look anything like the actual fuse panel. . I did find the fuse that I needed to move to get switched power but it was nowhere near the location shown on the diagrams. Luckily it was the only 50 amp fuse on the panel and was easily recognizable because it had the spare lug where you could move the fuse from center lug to bottom lug to center lug to top lug. Just curious why my numbered fuse panel diagrams are totally different from the actual fuse panel and am I the only one.
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Has anyone added an additional fuse block to their truck? I have seen some of the Jeep guys add a waterproof fuse/relay box under the hood to avoid having all of their LED and other accessory wires all jumbled up on the positive battery terminal. I want to be able to add more lights and accessories to my truck, but I don't want to have a mess of wires all over the battery. I'm thinking the empty battery location on the right side of the engine bay would be a good spot for an additional fuse/relay box. Anybody have experience in doing this? Please post pictures and include your product name and where you bought it from. Thanks guys! -
I have a 2006 Silverado vortec max I recently mounted new fog lamps and while I was driving the fog lamps just stopped working. When I press the button the running lights in the front still come on just the fog lamps won't. The fuses look good just not sure what I should be looking for. Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you in advance.
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I'm not sure if I'm posting this in the right place and I can move it if someone wants me to. Today I drove into work and everything was fine but when I left I noticed my radio took a second to come on. Then I found out my windows won't roll down and when I press the button to roll it down the radio turns off. I opened the interior fuse panel and tried to figure out the problem but couldn't I did find out though my windshield wipers aren't working either. Also there's this blue wire that's not connected to anything but I can't find out what it is or what it goes to. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi, we are going to be installing Police Scanner and GPS System in 2004 chevy silverado crew cab z71 and will be using Bussmann BP/HHH ATM Add-A-Fuse on the Instrument Panel Fuse Block we would like to use always on circuit for the Police Scanner looking for one that is not used to much want to avoid any interference, on the GPS we might want BP/HHH ATM Add-A-Fuse to be on the car ignition circuit, but if you can tell about always on circuit also any help would be greatly appreciated
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Hey! I have a 2001 GMC 2500 that used to have a 6L gas in it, but is in the midst of a 12V swap. When I was gutting the engine bay I noticed that the plugs on the back side of the under hood fuse panel are color coded. Was just curious as to what the colors stand for. There is green, red, black and white. I found this picture on google to better explain what im getting at. Any ideas on the colors would be appreciated. Thanks.
