Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I picked up my 2014 Sierra All Terrain last night and so far everything has been great. I test drove it the day before to give the dealership the ok to spray the bed liner and during the test drive I noticed a vibration mostly through the steering wheel, like some have described. I told the dealer and they had the service department look at it before I picked it up last night. They force road balanced the tires and the vibration is gone, drives beautifully. My vibration came on around 75 and persisted through 80+. Was very slight under 75. Only have 120 miles on it so if anything changes I'll let you guys know.

  • Like 2
Posted

barky,

 

I understand that you are unhappy with some concerns that you are experiencing with your vehicle. I am happy to look into these concerns for you. Please private message me referencing this thread including you name, address, phone number, VIN, exact mileage, and preferred dealership.

 

Jennifer T.

GM Customer Care

 

 



Posted (edited)

 

So today I just pulled my 600# snowmobile on a 2 place aluminum snowmobile trailer and had the worst vibrations I've experience so far. This has me more convinced my vibration issue is related to drive shaft angle. The weight on the back of the truck is slightly lifting the front and in any other truck this isn't an issue but since my truck has a vibration unloaded the extra drive shaft angle makes it worse. How does a guy get a proper drive shaft angle?

That is my exact problem too. Not sure if you saw my post towards the top of this thread but I actually rotated my tires on my trailer in a Walmart parking lot because the vibration was so bad with a similar trailer. I am confident that this is a prop shaft issue and GM knows it. It will just be a matter of time before a recall goes out. Edited by Szyikowski
Posted

So has anyone really determined whether its tires, axles, driveshatfs, or whole rear ends? I guess I'll start with tires. I have a very slight but noticalbe vibration at ALL speeds. I've called the dealer who said to bring it in but I haven"t had time yet.

Posted

I actually was trying to get video of how bad my had would shake on the wheel when pulling the trailer. I think if I added my buddy's snowmobile on the trailer it wouldn't be drivable. I think today I'm going to put my ATV in the box (650#) and take it for a drive just to rule out the trailer, although I've never had a problem with the trailer before. If it vibrates bad I will bring it to the dealer with it in the back on Tuesday when they fix my seat.

Posted

Just got done with taking for a ride with my ATV in the back. It drove the same as it does empty, so it the weight might not be far enough back to have the same effect as having all the weight on the receiver hitch.

Posted

Silver Spaceship, you ever have your tires road force balanced? If they are off extra load would definitely make it worse. I know people have been saying the pinion angle could be off but I don't see how that would cause a vibration unless the spring blocks in the rear suspension had different angles cut in them or if one didn't seat on the rear end properly. I have experienced vibrations above 50 in a different car when the u-joint wasn't bolted to the rear end properly, kid who bolted it up didn't notice that one side was sitting on the alignment tab.

As others have mentioned could be a out of balance drive shaft. Could also be a defective u-joint somewhere on the drive line. With all the tire related issues I've seen posted I would lean that way though, and as I mentioned in an earlier post my vibration which came on about 70, went away once the dealer road force balanced the tires. I also towed my 6k lb boat yesterday and no vibrations at all, pulled like a bull.

Posted

Well I went and got on the interstate this morning after reading this to check mine at the higher speeds and guess what?When it reached 82 mph the vibration started and was terrible!!Drives so smooth at speeds below 80 with zero vibration!

  • Like 1
Posted

Well scheduled my 3 rd trip to dealer for THE SHAKE that everyone unfortunate buyer is experiencing. So far they have replaced all 4 tires and road force balanced them and vibration/shake is still there at speeds above 65.

The dealers can't fix an engineering problem. This must be addressed from GM's engineers. I'm going to lemon law it if they can't address this miserable issue.

Posted

Well I went and got on the interstate this morning after reading this to check mine at the higher speeds and guess what?When it reached 82 mph the vibration started and was terrible!!Drives so smooth at speeds below 80 with zero vibration!

 

It is the tires. I had vibs over 70 mph and was corrected by tire trueing and balance on the truck. If such is not available to your area, recommend you find a shop or discount tire that knows how to properly road force balance a tire. If it takes too much weight, have them rotate the tire 180 on the wheel. Or just stay below..80..if you are kidding about this

Posted
Well scheduled my 3 rd trip to dealer for THE SHAKE that everyone unfortunate buyer is experiencing. So far they have replaced all 4 tires and road force balanced them and vibration/shake is still there at speeds above 65.

The dealers can't fix an engineering problem. This must be addressed from GM's engineers. I'm going to lemon law it if they can't address this miserable issue.

How bad is yours?

My area 3x same issue is a lemon case

Posted

Mine drives so nice and smooth up to about 82-85 mph and it is like you flip a switch!!I went to the dealership today to see when they could look at it and if they have heard of this before.Guess what they said??We have not ever had that problem before,My appointment is for 10 am tomorrow we will see!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...