Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Wow that's lot of bad tires if u ask me. (Lol)

My guess is they are all good year tires, Someone at GM should be pi$$ed with all the vibration troubles.

Posted

While my truck was at the dealer they gave me a 2014 tx edition with 500 miles as a loaner with continetal tires and it had the same vibration.. I think they don't know what the problem is so they blame the tires ... I ran the same goodyear tire on my 2008 sierra tx edition and had no problems at all. ( And why would they have my dealer shim my motor mounts with washers) A $38000 dollar truck with washers on the motor mounts...

  • Like 1
Posted

Wow that's lot of bad tires if u ask me. (Lol)

yes it is mostly tires or the poor balancing of such. All new tires will ride much better if trued by someone that knows how to properly true a tire and high speed balance on the car/truck. A new truck here or there may have mechanical issue but most vibs in steering wheel and seat are the result of tires and balancing. All tires are out of round some and weight too. It is a matter if enough to cause a ride problem even with a good balance.

 

If I were one of the unfortunate here with the vibration problem, I would start with the tires. And not at the dealership. Then with good tires and balance and still a problem go back to the dealer. Let the dealer know about the vib problem and take their shot and then if not fixed, let them know you are going to replace the oems. This way they cannot say well it is those new Michelins....

 

Unless it comes with Michelins, to me replacing oem tires is just a mod that should be done as soon as possible. Same with shocks.

Posted (edited)

My guess is they are all good year tires, Someone at GM should be pi$$ed with all the vibration troubles.

They must have got a really good deal on a train load of these lousy tires. Which in the end was a very bad deal after all. Or, there is another problem somewhere and they have no idea what.

Edited by pm26
Posted

yes it is mostly tires or the poor balancing of such. All new tires will ride much better if trued by someone that knows how to properly true a tire and high speed balance on the car/truck. A new truck here or there may have mechanical issue but most vibs in steering wheel and seat are the result of tires and balancing. All tires are out of round some and weight too. It is a matter if enough to cause a ride problem even with a good balance.

 

If I were one of the unfortunate here with the vibration problem, I would start with the tires. And not at the dealership. Then with good tires and balance and still a problem go back to the dealer. Let the dealer know about the vib problem and take their shot and then if not fixed, let them know you are going to replace the oems. This way they cannot say well it is those new Michelins....

 

Unless it comes with Michelins, to me replacing oem tires is just a mod that should be done as soon as possible. Same with shocks.

Balancing tires properly is a neverending problem. Tires on my '09 Impala LTZ are difficult to balance for some reason and usually it takes three tries to get them balanced perfectly. I get a smooth ride for 20k miles if they are done right, so I know the tires are good. Generally the larger the tire diameter, the more difficult they are to balance properly. And cars are typically more sensitive to improperly balanced tires than trucks.

Posted

Well it has been about 200 miles since the dealer swapped the goodyears for Bridgstones and yes the wobble is gone, but I have to say this is the worst truck ever. The steering wheel is not smooth there is a constant slight vibration that is not tire related and even the smallest cracks in the road feel like you are hitting giant pot holes and the whole truck bounces. Every little thing is felt directly through the steering wheel.

 

If anyone is reading this post DO NOT BUY ONE OF THESE!!! I have had at least 10 chevy and GMC trucks and never had such an awful time driving a vehicle as this one. Can't wait to trade out of it.

I typically never buy first year redesigned vehicles, no matter what the make and model. They all seem to have some issues, some worse than others. But these vibration problems are very frustrating.

 

Have tried running slightly lower pressure in your tires to see if the ride is less harsh? I mean 2 to 4 psi less, anything beyond that may be unsafe.

Posted

Just had my 2014 Silverado Crew Cab4x4 6'6 " box 3.42 rear end to dealer for vibration but this happens at approx 30 mph at 3000 rpms under moderate to heavy acceleration coming out of a turn but they couldn't duplicate it. I also have noticed the tach surging when in 4 cyl mode at 1000-1200 rpms when going up slight incline but forgot to mention it to them. Have not noticed the vibration at 60 mph and up and I have Goodyear tires not sure which model. 3100 miles on truck but I have a topper so maybe the extra weight of that makes it not noticable. I also complained about a large hesitation when going up hill, letting off gas then trying to accelerate. The truck will do nothing to accelerate for at least a second (seems like forever) then will take off like nothing happened. Only happened twice. The dealer said it normal so the trans gears don't slam into each other. I think otherwise.

Posted (edited)

I just bought a 2014 Silverado, with the former "extended" cab setup, 5.3 l engine,18 inch wheels, Goodyear tires. I'm thinking I should have run away...when I first drove the vehicle, on the interstate, I said out loud to the salesman and my wife "it has a vibration." Thinking it was just an unbalanced tire, I went ahead and purchased the truck. Now, the dealer has force balanced all the tires, which did not solve the problem. The service manager has agreed that there is a vibration, but he and a technician drove other trucks of the same configuration under the same circumstances - about 65 to 72 mph - and they all had the same vibration. I am not happy with Chevrolet...These vehicles are advertised as being quiet and so forth...not so. I am not a happy camper. I won't be able to speak again with the dealer until next week. A poor vehicle. I will pursue my options now, with the things I've seen here.

Edited by Springmilld
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I just bought a 2014 Silverado, with the former "extended" cab setup, 5.3 l engine,18 inch wheels, Goodyear tires. I'm thinking I should have run away...when I first drove the vehicle, on the interstate, I said out loud to the salesman and my wife "it has a vibration." Thinking it was just an unbalanced tire, I went ahead and purchased the truck. Now, the dealer has force balanced all the tires, which did not solve the problem. The service manager has agreed that there is a vibration, but he and a technician drove other trucks of the same configuration under the same circumstances - about 65 to 72 mph - and they all had the same vibration. I am not happy with Chevrolet...These vehicles are advertised as being quiet and so forth...not so. I am not a happy camper. I won't be able to speak again with the dealer until next week. A poor vehicle. I will pursue my options now, with the things I've seen here.

I think your issue is "Dealer force balanced" Key word is Dealer. Take it to a reputable tire specific store and have them do it. It's apparent that GM and it's dealers either don't have the proper equipment/ training or both.

 

Either that or demand they change the tires to another brand other than Goodyear.

 

Just my .02

 

Mike

Edited by mzodarg
  • Like 1
Posted

I don't think its the tires unless they are not balanced properly. I have been reading the thread about the vibration and possible tire issue. We have two 14 LTZ Silverado 4x4 short bed crew cabs in our house hold. Both have the 20 chrome rims with 275 55 20 Wrangler SRA tires. Neither have any type vibration at all up to 90 mph and are as quiet as a church mouse. That's as fast as I have been. One truck has 4,000 miles and the other close to 2,000 miles on it.

Posted

I would not expect a dealership to be able to properly balance a tire in 30 mins or 30 days. find a good tire shop. Then you will know: 1. it is the tires or 2. it is not the tires.

 

A good shop can tell you if it is too far out to balance. Then new tire. A really good tire shop can true a tire and high speed balance on the auto. A really good shop like this is hard to find but if you do put them on your Christmas list.

 

Again, replacing OEMs and a good balance job should be considered a mod and not play lets beat up the dealership tell they give me new tires that they cannot balance either. Good luck guys.

Posted

Springmilld,

 

Hello! I am sorry to learn that you are experiencing an issue with your vehicle. I would like to look into this concern for you. Could you private message me referencing this tread including your contact information, VIN, current mileage, and preferred dealership?

 

Jennifer T.

GM Customer Care



  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • When I bought my 14 GMC I turned it off with an handheld programmer. With my 16 Odyssey I left it on solely because I didn’t have much money in the vehicle. There’s a device to turn it off that’s a little more involved. The GMC at 72 MPH the deactivation was on very little the deference was 1/2 mile per gallon. The Odyssey is on over half the time at 72 mph. 
    • Anyone ever thought about switching the interior door panels from the base model to the Denali style? I’ve seen that you basically have to cut, sand, mold, paint, the window switches together to get the look right. Is that the main reason people don’t bother doing the swap? Seems like the only method that is easy I guess, without having to mess around with wiring and stuff.
    • Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...