Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

 

Just out of curiousity, what is the u joint bolt torque specs?

They don't have an exact torque spec but more of a procedure. This is from my memory but you can find it somewhere on this site. I believe you torque them to 59 ft-lbs. After they are all at 59 ft-lbs you then turn each nut an additional 130 degrees. not sure if this is the exact procedure but it's something along these lines. I have mine at 78 ft-lbs and from where they were from the factory to 78 it took almost 3 full turns to get them there. It helps but didn't solve the issue by any means.

 

I just re-read your post, you're looking for the u-joint bolts on the drive line? Can you even get a torque wrench on them?

Edited by abominable z71
Posted

Any of you have 275/60R20 tires or larger? If so, what brand? Improvements to ride quality? I've been all over this forum and a couple others. Mostly curious.

Posted

Any of you have 275/60R20 tires or larger? If so, what brand? Improvements to ride quality? I've been all over this forum and a couple others. Mostly curious.

I have that size in an LT tire. My vibration went away after swapping from junk stock tires, and these ride a bit better even though they are an all terrain and they are LT rated not P rated

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Posted

Well as of now my 2015 All -Terrain is in for the shakes no bad but just enough to finally have the dealer look into it .3rd time I have commented about and have it documented on each visit , 1st time rebalance tires last year, 2nd time rotation and rebalance balance was out, finally this time they have it for 2 days so far balance is good next step they are connection the vibration test kit? with pile of sensors etc connected and driving it a round. have 35000 KM (Canada) 21000 Miles

also they are checking the lazy shifting of transmission at least to me it is. no matter the out come it is being traded in next spring. being for sale now and potential buyer have commented on the minor shake so as of now I can not even sell the thing !!

Plus seat belt recall and air bag recall done.

Up date Sept 19 truck was at the Dealer for 2 days they found no problems I may be crazy cause no one else feels it even my wife.

Best out come so far is listed it for sale Sept 05 before dealer visit and Sold pending mine and buyer schedule to work out. it will be gone by Sept 21. They felt no vibration at all on the test drive at highway speeds.

Posted

New poster here. I do have the same issue as well. I didnt notice it as much when I had the OEM 18' tires on. It got worse once I switched to 33s 12wide 20''rims OFF road tires. I did some tire balancing and then it didnt vibrate much in USA highways. However once abroad I do notice it when I go up hill or when Im doing off road. I do notice strong amounts of vibration when the pavement is not very well made. As If im about to lose control of the vehicle when im driving. My old Mazda 2001 truck piece of junk doesnt vibrate as much and its a diesel junk that vibrates on idle LOL. Im looking around the thread and cant find any solutions. Did anybody compile possible solutions or something to ease the vibration at least? Also this truck is no longer in the states. So Its impossible for me to take it to the dealer and get a fix.

Posted

Praying new tires help my ride. I aired up these good years stockers to 39 p si and seems take away the trembling that goes along with the Chevy shake. So considering trying an LT tire. And I'm still saving up to try new leaf pack for the rear.

Posted (edited)

Add me to the list of owners of a $50K vibrator. My 2015 High Country started vibrating at around 70MPH when it hit 9000 miles. I'm at 14K miles now and it is getting worse so I dropped it off yesterday. Received a call today saying the tech had confirmed the vibration exists and that the first step is a force balance at a cost of $230. I told them to go ahead and do it. The next step will be to look at the tires if this doesn't fix the issue.

 

 

What is really strange is that it doesn't always happen. I can be driving into work vibrating away at 70MPH, hit some traffic and slow down, get back up to speed and experience no vibration.

Edited by David_
Posted

Add me to the list of owners of a $50K vibrator. My 2015 High Country started vibrating at around 70MPH when it hit 9000 miles. I'm at 14K miles now and it is getting worse so I dropped it off yesterday. Received a call today saying the tech had confirmed the vibration exists and that the first step is a force balance at a cost of $230. I told them to go ahead and do it. The next step will be to look at the tires if this doesn't fix the issue.

 

 

What is really strange is that it doesn't always happen. I can be driving into work vibrating away at 70MPH, hit some traffic and slow down, get back up to speed and experience no vibration.

Not strange at all, been mentioned numerous times on this thread. I just hit 14k miles on my truck and the shaking has almost gone away. I might be one of the few whose truck got better with miles but it also points to my problems being mostly with the tires IMO.

Posted

Tell them to stick that 230 up their asses. It's under warranty.

 

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

 

Exactly

Posted

According to them, GM does not warrant tire balance. They people at the dealer aren't being assholes about it but I will drop it right back off if it isn't fixed.

Posted

According to them, GM does not warrant tire balance. They people at the dealer aren't being assholes about it but I will drop it right back off if it isn't fixed.

Keep the receipt because it will feel great for a few days and slowly return. Get your money back when it does!

Posted

Yeah I believe GM covers the tires, from having to replace them or to rebalance them, up to 12k. My dealer ate the cost of rebalance at 34k, they are awesome

Posted

I don't see how they can charge you. I just had two replaced and all 4 road force balanced. Plus the front 2 re-road force balanced after I still was experiencing vibration. I left the dealership today and I'd say it's 98% fixed. I maybe just looking for it so much now that I don't know what fixed even means anymore. I swear I'm paranoid about the issue now, especially after reading this thread lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...