Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

5300029c3db12c0af261b3af35a1d2f6.jpg

 

2 level. 275/60/20 bfg ko2. Fuel coupler gloss black.

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

  • Like 4
Posted

Stock w/ 275/65/20 KO'2s. Running at 35psi

 

Your harsh ride is because of the LT tire not the level. 10 ply tire rides rough compared to stock tires. See a lot of guys thinking the rougher ride is due to the level and not the LT tires they just added too.

Posted

Agree and disagree, my truck rode much stiffer with the 2.5" RC and stock SRA tires than it does now with my 6" lift with 35" MT tires.

 

Your harsh ride is because of the LT tire not the level. 10 ply tire rides rough compared to stock tires. See a lot of guys thinking the rougher ride is due to the level and not the LT tires they just added too.

Posted (edited)

 

Your harsh ride is because of the LT tire not the level. 10 ply tire rides rough compared to stock tires. See a lot of guys thinking the rougher ride is due to the level and not the LT tires they just added too.

 

 

Your harsh ride is because of the LT tire not the level. 10 ply tire rides rough compared to stock tires. See a lot of guys thinking the rougher ride is due to the level and not the LT tires they just added too.

I disagree with your tire theory. It had a 2" level with no added block and rode great......... But thanks anyway.

Edited by mmwest
Posted

If the dealer installs the level... warranty problem solved...
Just saying.
And since most dealers will install these level kits, you would think they wouldn't raise a stink about them when something wears out prematurely.
If it was that big of an issue, and it was guaranteed to cause something to fail early, they wouldn't install them if they knew it meant a warranty cost for them in the future.

Posted

 

No tire theory bud. Fact. LT tires ride rougher then P tires.

 

 

The tires themselves decreases ride quality but,

The level itself decreases ride quality as well.

 

No debate.

Posted

For those of you adding leveling kits and new tires, what kind of MPG hit are you taking? If I buy a 5.3 CC and add a 2.25 leveling kit, and stay with factory tires, will I take much of a hit? I know well the issues of adding heavier tires and losing MPG's, have done it for many years. But if I keep factory tires, will I see a hit at all?

 

2 other questions. With all the complaints about vibration problems, are you guys with leveling kits having more issues, the same, or no way to tell?

 

What is the weight of the factory 275/55R20 Goodforayear tires? I looked and believe I found the answer to be 41lbs? Anyone know for sure?

Posted

I have seen zero mpg loss. I can still cruise on the highway and get 20-24 mpg to show up on my 50 mile average. That's which stock tires and 2.25 level. Also no vibrations of any kind from my level that I installed myself.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

305 55 20 w 2.5" level, Toyo AT2 extreme, minimal road noise, slight reduce ride quality due to vibration, 16-17 mph best mileage on highway w cruise on. 6.2L motor half ton 4wd

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

RC 2.5 with rear block went on today along with new wheels.

Moto Metal 20x9 MO970 Black/Machined 0 offset

Toyo Open Country ATII 295/55/R20

I noticed a slight rub in reverse on the mud flaps but when I got home and looked while my sister steered the truck in reverse, it seems to barely clear... I mean you could barely fit a hair between the tire and the flap. Might have to do some trimming but I couldn't be happier with how everything turned out!

 

IMG_0478_zps1wm0e0yv.jpg

IMG_0480_zpsyxhzm4j6.jpgIMG_0485_zps1047mndi.jpg

IMG_0483_zpsxf9ocx2g.jpg

IMG_0484_zpsz7bmuayb.jpg

 

Good looking truck! Did you remove the stock rear block? I have 2.5" level in front and ride about 1" high without a trailer load. I want to add a rear block.

 

Thanks!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

 

Looks? Can easily tell it is. Never seen a stock truck with 3.5" of stock rake (2014+ half tons). What was the stock fender measurements and what are they now? I am guessing about an inch nose high? Mine had 2 inch stock rake, most have 2-205" stock rake.

 

Should add a 2 inch rear block to give it a level stance and get your headlights closer to correct.

 

Tyler

Mine sits about a 1" high in front with 2.5" up front and nothing done to the rear. Should I remove the rear stock block and add the 2" block to give it more level look? Will that help?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I spent countless hours on the forums and looking at available kits. I wanted something that did not change highway ride quality and also improved off road capability. I ended up going with Camburg's 2.5 coilover kit. I absolutely love this kit, it drives great on road and amazing off road. .

 

https://camburg.com/shop/suspension/fox-chevy-1500-2wd-4wd-07-14-factory-2-5-kit/

 

post-159851-0-96159700-1467663451_thumb.jpg

post-159851-0-03319800-1467663480_thumb.jpg

post-159851-0-96159700-1467663451_thumb.jpg

post-159851-0-03319800-1467663480_thumb.jpg

post-159851-0-96159700-1467663451_thumb.jpg

post-159851-0-03319800-1467663480_thumb.jpg

post-159851-0-96159700-1467663451_thumb.jpg

post-159851-0-03319800-1467663480_thumb.jpg

Edited by Headqrts66
  • Like 3
Posted

I spent countless hours on the forums and looking at available kits. I wanted something that did not change ride performance and also improved off road capability. I ended up going with Camburg's 2.5 coilover kit. I absolutely love this kit, it drives great on road and amazing off road. .

 

https://camburg.com/shop/suspension/fox-chevy-1500-2wd-4wd-07-14-factory-2-5-kit/

 

attachicon.gif#2a.jpg

attachicon.gif#4a.jpg

That looks like a sick leveling kit ! Just pricey
Posted

So just to recap all the back and forth. The lower level kits are preferred to the upper? It seems to me that it makes for an easier install job. I haven't crawled underneath to see what kind of control arms I have (2016 z71 LT). But amazon has a same day delivery for $59 for the Rough Country lower levels.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...