Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

NEOutdoors, did you ever find out if the 275/65/20 would work with the 2" level?

 

or does anyone else have thoughts on this? there seem to be a lot of mixed opinions.

I think it will work if your tire is less than 12" wide and 34" tall on stock wheels.

 

You are right there at that measurement.

 

275 tires vary in width wide by brand. Check the width of your tire choice and it might fit.

 

I have a 2.5" lift to fit my tires. I have very little clearance on stock wheels running 285s.

 

An aftermarket wheel would allow it to fit with no issues except pulling back the inner fender skirts.

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Edited by Smoothbassman
  • Like 1
Posted

Not the best pic but wanted to show what the 2.5 front and 1 rear level looks like with a loaded trailer. Not too much squat

 

5c5bc6f753e29144b089fa8894811eb7.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

NEOutdoors, did you ever find out if the 275/65/20 would work with the 2" level?

 

or does anyone else have thoughts on this? there seem to be a lot of mixed opinions.

Just put them on yesterday. Seems like they are good to go. I had to zip tie the liners to make them fit but other than that, they fit with he 2" level. I'll be driving it a bit over the weekend so we'll so if there are any rubbing issues but so far I haven't noticed any. It seems that as long as you stick with the stock tire width you can go up to a 34 with the 2" level.

Posted

Just put them on yesterday. Seems like they are good to go. I had to zip tie the liners to make them fit but other than that, they fit with he 2" level. I'll be driving it a bit over the weekend so we'll so if there are any rubbing issues but so far I haven't noticed any. It seems that as long as you stick with the stock tire width you can go up to a 34 with the 2" level.

Mind posting pics? Along with listing the tire you chose?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Mind posting pics? Along with listing the tire you chose?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

69b7fd2cbfb9a980541820e7f5c5384b.jpg

 

BFG KO2 275/65/20 - no rubbing issue with 2" RC level and zip tied liners.

Edited by NEOutDoors
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Thanks man! I didn't think there would be anyway to run a 275/65/20 on a 2" level without trimming or the NorCal mod.

 

Do you think anything other than factory offset/backspacing would have been a no go? Or is there a little wiggle room?

 

I'll be buying aftermarket 20's and trying to figure out if I have to stay exactly at factory specs or if I could get away with say something in the +18 range? There just isn't a lot of 20x9 options out there with exact factory offset

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Iceman22
Posted

post-143945-0-15451700-1506025395_thumb.jpg

 

Wanted the "should have come from the factory this way" look. Just got a RC 2" front Level. I went with P rated 265/70-18 Firestone Destination AT's on stock wheels. The tires are the same width as stock and 1.1" taller. Rides and accelerates just like stock. So far mileage seems to be unchanged as well. Just for fun I also had the stock muffler replaced with a Flowmaster 40 which gave me the sound I wanted to go along with the new look.

 

 

post-143945-0-15451700-1506025395_thumb.jpg

post-143945-0-15451700-1506025395_thumb.jpg

post-143945-0-15451700-1506025395_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Rough Country level/lift and working great

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted

Rough Country 3.5. Highest I could go and still reverse it if I want to.

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted

Who has some GOOD pictures of your CV angles and ball joints with a 2 inch Level? The angle thread has a lot on lifts, not so much on level. Thanks

Posted

So I was excited about getting my 2.5" Rough Country leveling kit on my 2017 Chevy High Country 4x4. I put it in yesterday, the lower piece on the bottom of strut, removed the strut spring and put in the round preload spacer, and then put in the 2" blocks. No issues installing. Have my factory 20" 275/55/20 tires and ordered Open Country II Extreme 285/55/20 and will leave them on factory rims for now.

SO IT RIDES LIKE A TANK after install!!! Is this normal? Rough Country says you can keep factory shocks. It feels like there is very little give. I see on so many posts that their trucks ride so good, man I'm jealous. I tried to upload photos but it says files are to big.

 

Do y'all have any ideas why it's riding so rough?

Should I take out the preload spacer?

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm confused, I guess, by your replies. You stated my comment made no sense. A truck is manufactured to a certain specification, including the overall length of the strut at rest, length of the lower control arm, length of the upper control arm, and height of the spindle/knuckle. Combined with steering rack and tie rods these elements all work to create steering/suspension geometry. By installing the block that lengthens the strut, pushing the lower control arm down, requiring the upper to be pulled down as well (effectively creating the suspension lift), this changes the factory steering/suspension geometry by moving the knuckle "down", and induces positive camber which must now be aligned out. To remove that positive camber in my case required that so much negative camber be induced by tightening the eccentric bolts in the upper control arms to near their maximum amount of movement. The result being, at steering lock on a level surface caused my sidewall to rub the front of my upper control arm. However later I did find that in certain circumstances during suspension action while turning that rubbing would also occur on the back edge of the wheel, probably due to sidewall roll.

 

I'd be happy to send some photos when I get back to Ohio from Utah on Sunday. But I guess I'm confused by the fact that your confused.

 

 

So, here are the photos from the rubbing at lock between my wheel/tire and Upper Control Arm. 2017 GMC Sierra Elevation, 20" stock GMC wheels, stock 275 55 20 Continental ContiTracks.

 

This is the small polished spot on the driver upper control arm after lift kit installation and realignment; passenger shows the same wear in the same place.

20170923 155449

This very outer lip is polished all the way around the wheel on the inner side of the driver front wheel; passenger is the same.

20170923 155511

Posted

As far as having the lift in, I did 2" MotoFab. Same overall height as the RC blocks, just CNC aluminum instead of plastic.

 

To @ChevyGuy72 - Ride felt very similar to stock. Just a tad stiffer. However, something to consider is that since these trucks have coilovers in the front, you're not going to get much deflection out of them. Those springs are designed to carry the weight of the entire front end of the truck. I noticed while reinstalling that if I applied too much jack pressure to the underside of the lower ball joint (to hold the spindle in place while I reinstalled the upper ball joint nut) it would start lifting the truck off the stands before it began compressing the springs. I have no experience with preload spacers, so I can't speak to if that is contributing to your rough ride.

 

I'd have loved to keep it lifted. As you can see, I took the blocks out and reverted to stock. I ran the lift for a week, and after encountering the rub even when I was trying actively to avoid it, I gave up and decided it wasn't for me. I loved the look, it gave it a much more aggressive stance. But I'm already in the hole enough with the cost of the alignment, I don't want to risk any severe damage to the wheels, tires or control arms.

Posted

I used the RC lower spacers to give a 2" level. I have not experienced any ride quality issues, rubbing, etc. I too have the stamped steel upper and lower arms.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,987
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RSTRICK
    Newest Member
    RSTRICK
    Joined
  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 627 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Coming back from towing a car to my daughter in Nashville truck started making a screaming noise from underneath.  Pulled over placed in park and sure enough whining noise from underneath.  Dropped at the dealer fearing new tranny or another front pump/cover replacement.  Service writer said it sounded like the tranny too...  Well $300, new idler and a belt all is good.  Pop the hood and give a listen. lol  Now I'm telling dealers I'm no longer interested in a new truck.
    • HD uses the 6.6 gas.   Oil consumption while heavy working is considered normal.  1 quart per 100 gallons of fuel is the normal rate above 8600lbs GVWR.  If more than that, it is considered excessive.   They will have to perform an oil consumption test using the guidelines in TSB 03-06-01-023J.     Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons, and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the combustion process, part of this oil layer is consumed. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines. Oil Consumption Oil usage has a direct relationship with the amount of fuel used. The harder an engine works, the more fuel and oil it will use. Therefore, oil usage as a factor of fuel usage is a more accurate indicator of acceptable oil consumption levels than vehicle mileage for vehicles at or above 8600 GVW. The accepted rate of oil consumption for gasoline engines in vehicles at or above 8600 GVW is 1 liter (1 qt) within 400 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used. This rate only applies to vehicles under warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, driven at legal speeds and within design intent of the vehicle. Many factors can affect an owner's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption. Gasket and External Leaks Inspect the oil pans, engine covers, and the engine oil cooler for leakage. Inspect for oil leakage into the engine coolant. Improper Reading of the Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick) The vehicle must be parked on a level surface to obtain accurate oil level readings. Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked. Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to Check Oil Level The vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 15 minutes, after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading to assure the oil has had enough time to drain back into the crankcase. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked. Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality. High Speed or High RPM Driving Continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs may increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected. Towing or Heavy Usage Towing a trailer or hauling additional weight will increase oil consumption. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption. PTO Operation Operation of a PTO will increase fuel and oil usage, as the PTO driven accessory uses engine power to operate. Crankcase Ventilation System Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use. Oil Dilution from Condensation On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 8 km (5 mi), especially in colder weather, condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess moisture, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption. Engine Temperature If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order. Engine Wear Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption. Measurement of Oil Consumption Engines require a period of time to BREAK IN so that moving parts are properly seated. Therefore, oil economy should not be tested until the vehicle has accumulated at least 6400 km (4000 mi). An exception would be allowed only if an engine is reported to be using more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 1600 km (1000 mi).   Verify that the engine has no external leaks. Repair as necessary. Verify that the engine is at normal operating temperature (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual). Park the vehicle on a level surface. Wait at least 15 minutes, after the engine is shut off, before checking the oil level to make sure that most of the oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase. Check the oil level and record the vehicle mileage, date, and exact oil level on the form included in this bulletin. Next ensure the oil level is at, but not above, the full mark on the dipstick. add oil if necessary. Also ensure the proper viscosity and quality oil are being used as recommended in the Owner Manual Ask the customer once they have consumed 100 gallons of fuel schedule an appointment and return to the dealer for inspection. If the final evaluation shows that the engine uses more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, follow the published symptom diagnostics as described in the appropriate Service Manual. If the oil consumption test shows that the engine uses less than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, explain to the customer that their engine meets the guidelines for oil consumption.  
    • I have a 2024 Chevy Silverado 2500 with the 6.2 liter engine, Vin: 2GC4YME79R1273849, with 27,437 miles. Recently we took a trip from Candor, NY to Townsend, TN pulling our fifth wheel, when I got close to the Townsend, TN area The truck gave me a message of low oil. I checked the dip stick and found it was 2 quarts low. Today, August 27, 2026, I had the oil changed and the technician Found the truck was very low on oil.  Is there a Recall for this? What is my recourse for this issue? Do I call the dealer where I bought it or any chevy dealer?   Robert Strickland 292 Owego Road Candor, NY 13743 352-502-6588 [email protected]
    • We understand the importance of understanding how your Sierra performs, @SoCal Angler. Our team would like to gather the proper details to assist you with your inquiry about your truck's automatic braking. When you have a moment, please visit: https://s.chevy.com/support-request and fill out the request form with pertinent details. This will ensure your request is routed correctly so we may take a further look. We will keep an eye out for your outreach.
    • That is the funnel kit I bought and for being here in Canada I did get a better deal than what other sources were charging through a certain supplier in town that sources more directly and they ordered it for me. There are other items now on the market which would be perfect as well but this has worked well which was the hope when I bought it. I mentioned the Amsoil quart bottles as they have that squarish shape up top and it props nicely on the rim of the opening without falling into the funnel so I can leave them sit and drip a bit. You may have already figured out that to get the cap off the valve cover unless one is 7 + feet tall its not going to be reached without standing on a step of some sort and so when I do that I put the right adapter in and just leave the elbow on the funnel all the time anyway and open the lid and then if using quart containers for sure I can stand beside the truck and leisurely add the oil, and I can leave that funnel on when starting the engine to let it idle to fill the filter and then add the rest of the oil to top it up before removing the funnel and putting the factory cap back on. I put the cap back on the top and slide the bottom cap on as it fits onto the elbow adapter also and then store the funnel in a clean household plastic garbage bag along with the adapter so I have no reason to be washing out the inside of the funnel as I keep it completely clean between uses.    Draining the oil as per the under the truck portion, yes indeed that is slick as someone was thinking on GM's part there and admittedly I don't drop the oil screaming hot in this truck due to the exhaust being there and makes it safer as far as the oil temp if its just warmed up some instead as I don't have the truck on any ramps etc as I do it as the tires sit on the garage floor. The filter is not boiling hot then either and can drop it off into another pail after pulling the drain plug and just leave it drip out. Go back under a few hours later with new filter in hand and clean off the filter base and put the new filter on and install the drain plug. The filter is a little cramped in there as per wrapping ones hand around the filter and I am so used to using the band style filter removal tool that its no big deal and same for snugging it up. My filter wrench is many years old now but I think this is the current version and sounds like the right size, just in case my explanation was not great ( those nylon strap wrenches that one tool fits all filters are not my favorite tool to use, I much prefer this style personally )     57020 Swivel Gripper - No Slip Filter Wrench - Small | Lisle Corporation   And again about the oil draining and filter setup under these GM trucks, I've watched Ford videos of them struggling with oil flying sideways out of the oil pan on the gas 7.3 due to the sideways drain plug onto other components or cross members and guys trying to make shields out of carboard etc and other Ford pickups that Ford insisted they have sideways drain plugs. One win for GM there anyway with this engine. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...