Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'd at least talk to the dealer's service dept and make certain the required materials are ordered and confirm that the stuff is in before you schedule an appt. See earlier post on this subject (and even the other posts on the same issue) for part numbers required. Maybe even print the repair steps from the posts to give to the service writer.

Posted

I just picked up a 7/14 manufacture date and it still has the waxy coating. Seems thin. The diff is painted on mine. I was able to rub my nail on the frame and remove the wax, so I doubt the clear coat stuff on the newer manu trucks means much. I'll probably buy a can of that touch up stuff posted earlier and go over all the spots after each wash.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I had mine half arsed dealer sprayed with liquid film, and then sprayed it myself with oil because the guy who sprayed the liquid film wasn't too careful.

 

I had big sections of the wax peeling off mine, its almost like they forgot to treat the frame before spraying it with wax. I always take the excess grease from greasing joints and smear it around the bare spots. What i find odd is that Dodge uses a similar wax coating called an "e-coat", and it holds up fairly well...I had several Dodges with that wax coat and never had any issues.

 

I've been oil undercoating since the 70s, trucks usually fail mechanically or you get tired of them before they ever rust. Its dirty under there, but there isn't a bolt that i can't get out.

Posted

I just picked up a 7/14 manufacture date and it still has the waxy coating. Seems thin. The diff is painted on mine. I was able to rub my nail on the frame and remove the wax, so I doubt the clear coat stuff on the newer manu trucks means much. I'll probably buy a can of that touch up stuff posted earlier and go over all the spots after each wash.

 

I personally don't think there's a clear coat. I think the wax coating formula was probably adjusted to be better and has more of a sheen to it as a result. Either way it's not the same product they used on the GMT900's and earlier which was extremely reliable.

Posted

 

I personally don't think there's a clear coat. I think the wax coating formula was probably adjusted to be better and has more of a sheen to it as a result. Either way it's not the same product they used on the GMT900's and earlier which was extremely reliable.

Its def a clear coating over the frame wax BC it was all over the axle, shocks, a arms, ect on my truck and several others on 2 diff dealers lots
Posted

Its def a clear coating over the frame wax BC it was all over the axle, shocks, a arms, ect on my truck and several others on 2 diff dealers lots

 

Oh well that's interesting I didn't notice that when I looked at a co worker's. So GM's logic here is:

 

1) Use cheaper wax coating to save money

2) Cheaper wax coating fails forcing GM to react

3) GM spends money to apply an additional clear coat to protect the cheaper wax coating.

 

So a cheaper wax coating plus the cost of a clear coat is STILL less than the old wax formula they used without any issues? What a dumb company. I can't believe people get paid to make these boneheaded decisions.

Posted (edited)

ry7egeve.jpg2uzaze5e.jpg

You can clearly see the clear wax

 

Yeah I see it best on the protective boot over the front shocks. That's interesting.

 

For what it's worth, my uncle and a co-worker both happened to pick up 2014 F-150's this past labor day weekend and both trucks have rust forming on some bolts related to the front control arms and the rear axle/differential on both are showing signs of rust. Both trucks are brand new.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted (edited)

My truck has rust on the frame. Dealers are so swamped with recalls I took it in for the instrument, transfer case and rust. 8hrs later I got the Tcase recall done only. Most dealers are booked out 2 weeks around tampa. Frigin joke.

 

 

Update. I went to home depot and picked up a can of flat black rust-o-leum enamel. Their top notch stuff. I already had some surface prep cleaner. I think I did an awesome job repairing the 4 major spots. I think it's where the frame was held by robots at the factory or where the cross members were welded in. In those areas, 2 on each side of the truck I had major rust. I took a rag with the prep cleaner and the stuff that was meant to come off, came off. Then I sanded the bad rust spots, wiped again, and did 2 coats of spray. Looks better than what GM did. I also found on the frame in front of the control arms, no coatings. I wiped and sprayed. So for now I have zero rust under the truck. The rear axle has some slight surface rust but I'm not terribly worried about it. When that gets worse I'll hit the axle. I should be good for a few years. I just hope the inside of the frame doesn't rust. Cost me about $7 and 2hrs of my time. Much better than dealing with the special Olympics GM calls the service dept. I had numerous dealers give me a hard time about the rust. Heck, I still need the instrument recall done! It's these kind of things that makes you wonder WTF did I buy this truck when I could of gotten a RAM. If it wasn't for the quiet cabin, G80 Locker and Direct injection.... I'd have a RAM. Direct injection and lockers are important to me.

Edited by FL335i
  • Like 2
Posted

Its def a clear coating over the frame wax BC it was all over the axle, shocks, a arms, ect on my truck and several others on 2 diff dealers lots

 

You cant clearcoat that wax. There are different gloss levels of the wax, so you are seeing the gloss wax based (profrom being the manufacturer that I think GM is using). Clearcoat is expensive and as I said in the various paint and chip threads GM is using cheaper and less clearcoat on these trucks.

Posted (edited)

6e9ubene.jpg

They even sprayed the diff, and 0 rust at all on it either.

 

This looks like 3M textured Undercoating to me, I'm very familiar with it. Can you ask what they used?

You can clearcoat this because its not wax based.

 

Edited by Pinnacle
Posted

I wish I saw this thread before purchasing my new 2014 Silverado. I haven't even picked up the registration yet and I see the rust issues on my frame and other parts. I don't even have 300 miles on it and there are sections of the frame that appear to have the wax coating completely peeling off and the rust showing underneath.

 

When contacting the dealer, they said TSB #14002A did not apply but #PI0564D did apply. I am waiting to take it in when I pick up my registration. Now I'm wishing I kept my 2002 Tacoma which had less rust appearance than this, even though I live in an area that get snow and lots of salt on the road. I was fortunate to have a good frame on the Tacoma. Toyota had such an issue with frame rust that they were buying back vehicles at 1.5 times blue book cost or having to completely swap out frames.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You could try a used 1, they used that engine in the Astro vans, Plenty of them in the boneyard. Look for a wrecked or rotted 1 so the chance that it was scrapped for that reason and not a mechanical issue will be greater
    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • That computer lies!
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...