Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 4/10/2020 at 2:03 PM, lryfer said:

Is this happening to the 2018 models as well?  I haven't seen that year mentioned. 

 

I used POR-15 in the past on my 66 GTO frame and under the body when it was off.  

Absolutely, yes. 18’s are not immune...I have an 18, I have to undercoat it twice a year to keep it from rusting.

Posted
On 4/13/2020 at 11:23 AM, Doublebase said:

Absolutely, yes. 18’s are not immune...I have an 18, I have to undercoat it twice a year to keep it from rusting.

This is such a pain, I've had 2 Toyotas, both which had the frames replaced for free while out of warranty. Are these frames even available separately or do I just toss the truck when the time comes?

 

From another former LS owner, these things seem like a catastrophe considering the truck is still in warranty and I've got frame rust, on my 2nd rear cam repair, transmission/powertrain issues etc. It's hard to accept then I read what the 8-speed Canyon folks are going through..

Posted
On 4/17/2020 at 12:21 AM, Locom0tive said:

This is such a pain, I've had 2 Toyotas, both which had the frames replaced for free while out of warranty. Are these frames even available separately or do I just toss the truck when the time comes?

 

From another former LS owner, these things seem like a catastrophe considering the truck is still in warranty and I've got frame rust, on my 2nd rear cam repair, transmission/powertrain issues etc. It's hard to accept then I read what the 8-speed Canyon folks are going through..

To be totally honest with you, I think your frame will last at least 15 years even if it does get totally covered in rust. As ugly as these chevy frames end up looking, I've only seen one that needed replacement (rusted through with a hole in it). 

 

Toyota's on the other hand, yeah I have seen quite a few totally destroyed.

 

I just keep up with my frame because I can't stand the sight of frame rust...drives me nuts. I imagine at some point I'll probably tire of keeping up with it, but I figure until then I'm adding years of life to the frame/truck by doing it.   

  • 7 months later...
Posted

What is the consensus of what most are doing to “keep up with” or treat theyre frames. Is the Lanolin fluid film or wool wax right over the existing wax coating the way to go and just deal with what it does the wax. I’ve had my 18 silverado 2 years now and want to do something. From what I gather we could imagine the wax coating as not even being there and treat accordingly?

Posted

I just picked up a 2016 Silverado WT from PA.  I'm in WI, the entire frame was devoid of all the factory wax.  Nothing left.  I went with the Rustoleum Rust Reformer.  Took a wire wheel cone and some wire brushes and got all the loose stuff off and then hit it with the Rust Reformer.  It dried to a nice flat black that was very similar to what the factory coat looked like new.  Definitely need 2 or 3 coats in some spots, it soaks into the rust in heavy areas.  My guess is that I will have to recoat every year, but it appears breathable and it does not have any rubber which should make for an ideal coating.  

 

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/rust-reformer

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I also use the rust reformer to touch up the rust spots, and then, I hit those spots with Rustoleum Pro Grade undercoating. Boxed frames usually rust through from the inside since they hold moisture and they can’t be re-coated inside. A friend recently had to park his 2000 Silverado due to the frame rusting through from the inside. He had coated the frame with POR15 several years ago. After researching different fluids to prevent rust, I decided to use ATF to coat the inside of my frame and cross members. It’s thin enough to spray without thinning and it appears to contain corrosion inhibitors. From the places it got on the outside of the frame, it seems to wick and spread fairly well which means it should do a good job of coating places not directly sprayed. I used an old bottle of Dexron III that I wasn’t going to use anyway. 

 To spray the ATF, I used a rechargeable sprayer that is pressurized with compressed air. I used a 2 ft spray tube that came with the cans of cavity wax that I sprayed inside my doors, rockers, fenders, tailgate. There are enough holes in the frame that I believe the entire frame is coated inside. The ATF seems to be friendly to the factory coating as I have seen no evidence of it pealing or softening as I’ve heard mentioned from folks using Fluid Film. Time will tell if my small investment in time and money was worth it as I plan to keep this truck for a while. 

4E04E3C5-BCA2-4570-B5A9-9DD8B384746B.jpeg

Edited by HoosierZ
  • 5 months later...
Posted

2018 Sierra, 30K miles - in addition to the rusting frame, which seems to be addressed in a service bulletin, has anyone experienced rear shock rust and color fading? The upper shock is now pink and lower portion is rusted so not very attractive. In quick search, it seems that the frame rust issue is largely cosmetic and involves an isolated # of K2 trucks. Wondering if they are all trucks out of a specific plant or geography? Was even thinking maybe flood/salt water (Hurricane Harvey or similar). Any insight would be appreciated. 

Frame rust.jpg

Frame rust2.jpg

Frame rust3.jpg

Frame rust5 shock.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 6/20/2021 at 1:56 PM, JvanGroup said:

2018 Sierra, 30K miles - in addition to the rusting frame, which seems to be addressed in a service bulletin, has anyone experienced rear shock rust and color fading? The upper shock is now pink and lower portion is rusted so not very attractive. In quick search, it seems that the frame rust issue is largely cosmetic and involves an isolated # of K2 trucks. Wondering if they are all trucks out of a specific plant or geography? Was even thinking maybe flood/salt water (Hurricane Harvey or similar). Any insight would be appreciated. 

Frame rust.jpg

Frame rust2.jpg

Frame rust3.jpg

Frame rust5 shock.jpg

 

You can't stop rust once it's started. Unless you grind it off. 

 

Use rust cure 3000, rust check etc. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

It wasn’t structurally damaged, looked worse than reality.  The flaking undercoating was the messy part.  I’ll just check it each spring and clean it up.

 

just sucks GM won’t use a durable metal treatment.

  • Like 1
  • 11 months later...
Posted (edited)

2015 Sierra. Original wax coat.  5FC08500-7BFE-4668-9C22-24CAEF1C608F.jpeg

F6F0D845-FFB8-4891-B88C-26AC084D422E.jpeg

DF05FB4D-9D6A-438E-9761-AF51ABB2BD82.jpeg

7833387D-FFD8-493A-93C4-BA30DEE7FB27.jpeg

3B6FA5AB-CD62-4862-A9A5-971FAA470FD2.jpeg

A666A8E8-5D7C-4A0C-80DB-D306B6411E78.jpeg

Edited by K2XX
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...