Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I had to get new rockers and cab corners on my 14 Silverado with 32k on it  this summer.  Also had frame redone under that service bulletin a while back and it didn’t ladt 6 months 

Posted
11 minutes ago, Shiloh74 said:

I had to get new rockers and cab corners on my 14 Silverado with 32k on it  this summer.  Also had frame redone under that service bulletin a while back and it didn’t ladt 6 months 

Is there service bulletin for 2017?

Posted
On 10/25/2019 at 7:51 AM, High Country 6.2L/8 said:

Have a 17 dealer did the undercoating from new plus a rust module no rust yet and I live in Nova Scotia where there's lots of winter salt

If you live in Nova Scotia and have no rust, whatever it is you're doing is working.

Posted
20 hours ago, Shiloh74 said:

I had to get new rockers and cab corners on my 14 Silverado with 32k on it  this summer.  Also had frame redone under that service bulletin a while back and it didn’t ladt 6 months 

That's the problem with these frames, unless you strip all of the GM frame wax off, paint, then apply some sort of corrosion inhibitor...it just isn't going to work. Everything else is just band aids. All you can really do is try to slow it down...do preventive maintenance...keep that metal covered in something...and do it frequently. I actually Fluid Film my truck twice a yea - - and even then it's not enough  - I still do some touch ups when I do my oil changes...and believe  me it needs it. There's always a little piece of bare  metal exposed and I'll just cover it up with some white lithium grease (it seems to stick well and hold up). 

 

Just keep up with it, it's not a one time set it and forget it, thing, it takes some work. And that's true for ALL trucks...painted frames, rubberized coated, you name it...they all rust. It's just a matter of how much it bothers you and how much you're willing to slow the rust down. Right now my truck is only two years old...I'm still in love, but that will stop some day. I won't be so anal about treating that frame and believe me it will quickly rust. Good thing is, the frame has so much metal on it that in all honestly it will take probably 20 years to rust through to the point where you'll need repair (and you can repair these things professionally - a welding shop can handle probably 90% of these frames safely).  

Posted
17 hours ago, Doublebase said:

If you live in Nova Scotia and have no rust, whatever it is you're doing is working.

X2.

 

I live in NL and you typically see rust after the first winter, the ranchos show first sign, then chassis.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 9/21/2019 at 10:59 AM, High Country 6.2L/8 said:

I just sprayed on flat black rust paint on spots on my 17 High Country 6.2L and it was undercoated new and has rust module. 

What is a "rust module" ?

Posted (edited)

the "new" rust modules from DiamondKote, plugin to the OBD2 port. I would suspect these are even less effective. Regardless, like High Country 6.2L/8 has mentioned, when you live in places that salt/sand are used to cover roads, and theres always moisture, and salt spray in the air - you opt for as many products as possible.

Edited by tanner709
Posted
15 minutes ago, tanner709 said:

the "new" rust modules from DiamondKote, plugin to the OBD2 port. I would suspect these are even less effective. Regardless, like High Country 6.2L/8 has mentioned, when you live in places that salt/sand are used to cover roads, and theres always moisture, and salt spray in the air - you opt for as many products as possible.

Your correct maybe rust module isnt effective on it's own or at all but the combination with undercoating helps can't hurt in Canada. Thanks for comment 

Posted
12 minutes ago, High Country 6.2L/8 said:

Your correct maybe rust module isnt effective on it's own or at all but the combination with undercoating helps can't hurt in Canada. Thanks for comment 

np. I've used Krown protection, with the rust module, but after 3-4 years, the chassis needs to be wire-wheeled down to the metal, and a new coating applied. It is inevitable.

Posted

POR-15 is very popular around my parts. especially in a rebuild/chassis stripping project

Posted
11 hours ago, tanner709 said:

POR-15 is very popular around my parts. especially in a rebuild/chassis stripping project

That's what I'm afraid of after awhile. The truck is 3 years old and none yet crossing my fingers something is working. I should add it's not a work truck and I can pick and choose when to drive it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...