Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My one truck started its life with a brief stint in Onterrible and came to me equipped with one of those rust preventer modules.  The same truck also had been back to the dealer multiple times with electrical problems surrounding the crank position sensor and they never resolved it under warranty.  First thing I did was unhook and toss that module in the garbage after the truck went into limp mode and threw a code for the crank position sensor shortly after I bought it.  I knew something was up when I cleared the issue by just disconnecting the battery.  No module and it's been fine for almost a year now lol.  

 

I just pull the taillights and the rocker plugs, flush, allow to dry and fluid film.  Much better preventative method.

Posted
12 minutes ago, SierraHD17 said:

My one truck started its life with a brief stint in Onterrible and came to me equipped with one of those rust preventer modules.  The same truck also had been back to the dealer multiple times with electrical problems surrounding the crank position sensor and they never resolved it under warranty.  First thing I did was unhook and toss that module in the garbage after the truck went into limp mode and threw a code for the crank position sensor shortly after I bought it.  I knew something was up when I cleared the issue by just disconnecting the battery.  No module and it's been fine for almost a year now lol.  

 

I just pull the taillights and the rocker plugs, flush, allow to dry and fluid film.  Much better preventative method.

That's possible everyone has a different  story. Have no issues with mine and the dealer does my undercoating since new and let me say this there's not one spot of rust and its 3 years old. The underneath is well protected with whatever so called GM approved stuff it is I'm not sure. Nova Scotia has some of the worst salt roads that will ruin a vehicle in a hurry if not mantained.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I recently finished repairing some of the rust in the rear end (under the bed) on my 2016 Sierra 1500 AllTerrain (came from NJ, has 40k miles now). Sincerely, it is disappointing that these trucks rust so badly so quickly. 30-year old cars have undercarriages in better shape. Regardless, I think the wax GM is using is indeed a good product, the only problem being thin application. When cleaning it off to prepare for painting, the spots where there were tears (i.e., thick application) it was very resistant to getting off of the frame, and the metal underneath was intact. On the other hand, spots where the layer was very thin is where it washed off quickly, and water and contaminants started penetrating from there on - hence the peeling.

Posted

I had no issues with rust since the dealer undercoated my 17 High Country from new, they used whatever so called appoved GM product. Well all I can say they didn't miss anything and dealing with salt for almost 3 years in Nova Scotia was a good test. They also installed a rust module some say it's useless but I'll keep doing what's needed to keep it rust free.

Posted

I've decided to kiss this frame goodbye in about 5 years and build a galvanized one to support V8 tuning (if the motor and cab stay well by then). Anyway, not sure how the previous owner treated the undercarriage given salty NJ roads, but just looking at condition of very old vehicles that have not been specially treated is disappointing (and appears to be by no means exclusive to GM trucks).

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Weather and salt make the most difference; the frame coating is really not robust to all conditions across the US.

Posted
5 minutes ago, Vuk said:

Weather and salt make the most difference; the frame coating is really not robust to all conditions across the US.

Dealer done mine the undercoating before it left lot, seems to holding up 3 years and rust free and I live in Nova Scotia a true test.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Well, don't feel too bad, guys! Friend has a 2020 Silverado and GM evidently didn't make any changes to their frame wax. The truck is less than two months old and it already has surface rust at the welds. Different looking frame though, instead of round tubes cutting across the frame in the rear, they use square tubing. Didn't crawl under it and see if anything else is different, but the rust and wax looks the same.

 

I fluid filmed my 18 a month after I bought it...I reapply twice a year. 48,000 miles and almost two years later, it looks pretty darn good. But I don't think I should have had to gone through those extremes to keep my frame clean. 

 

It's been a real bad winter here in New England, not a lot of snow, but a ton of ice and salt. Everyday it's been a thorough salt bath.

Posted
25 minutes ago, Doublebase said:

Well, don't feel too bad, guys! Friend has a 2020 Silverado and GM evidently didn't make any changes to their frame wax. The truck is less than two months old and it already has surface rust at the welds. Different looking frame though, instead of round tubes cutting across the frame in the rear, they use square tubing. Didn't crawl under it and see if anything else is different, but the rust and wax looks the same.

 

I fluid filmed my 18 a month after I bought it...I reapply twice a year. 48,000 miles and almost two years later, it looks pretty darn good. But I don't think I should have had to gone through those extremes to keep my frame clean. 

 

It's been a real bad winter here in New England, not a lot of snow, but a ton of ice and salt. Everyday it's been a thorough salt bath.

My 17 High Country is rust free and 3 years old, lots of undercoating applied yearly by the dealer as part of the sale. We live in Nova Scotia where any vehicle is bathed in salt

Posted
6 minutes ago, High Country 6.2L/8 said:

My 17 High Country is rust free and 3 years old, lots of undercoating applied yearly by the dealer as part of the sale. We live in Nova Scotia where any vehicle is bathed in salt

Yeah, you guys are using Krown up there, right? Fluid Film or Woolwax seems to be popular where I am. Think Woolwax actually owns Fluid Film, go figure.

Posted
9 minutes ago, Doublebase said:

Yeah, you guys are using Krown up there, right? Fluid Film or Woolwax seems to be popular where I am. Think Woolwax actually owns Fluid Film, go figure.

Known or Fluid Film is a popular choice yes. As for what's under mine only the dealer knows lol

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Is this happening to the 2018 models as well?  I haven't seen that year mentioned. 

 

I used POR-15 in the past on my 66 GTO frame and under the body when it was off.  

Posted
On 2/16/2020 at 5:45 AM, High Country 6.2L/8 said:

Known or Fluid Film is a popular choice yes. As for what's under mine only the dealer knows lol

I think you meant Krown?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Enjoy the new truck, it’s a beauty. I’m glad you’re keeping the OBS, I love those old trucks. 
    • With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...