Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anyone else with a new 2014 Sierra having an issue with the frame rusting and paint/wax flaking off? I have 3000 kms and it looks horrible. I also own a 2011 Canyon service truck with 105kms and the frame looks like new. So irriating as my Sierra is a beautiful truck aside

Posted

Ya talk about frustrating, I just cleaned the snow off mine this morning and I noticed there's all surface rust spots along the front bumper. Not very pleased at all, the trucks only 6 months old.

 

First complaint I've had about the truck.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Ya I'm doubting that, there all on the top line of the bumper all the way across. There not just random spots on the front.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I have surface rust on my frame also. Alot of salt on the roads this winter in Ohio. I always spray underneath as often as I can .

Posted

There is a TSB out on this, GM had some problems with the wax coating on a small run of trucks. Take it into the dealer as the TSB gives direction on how they are to repair it.

Posted

Any idea on what the tsb fix is? I know on earliar silverado models I have seen frame rust on trucks that are unsold sitting in the dealers lots.

Posted

I remember that when I had my truck on a lift, frame coating in contact areas with lift rubber pads came off and stuck to the pads. I just recoated the bare spots with rubberized undercoating. If the spots are small and there is rust present, you can just brush it with wire brush and spray on some undercoating.

Posted

I don't have a problem with the frame, but the rear axle has light surface rust on the shock mounts and diff cover. I live in S Fla. And haven't seen salt

Posted

I don't have a problem with the frame, but the rear axle has light surface rust on the shock mounts and diff cover. I live in S Fla. And haven't seen salt

This is very common on these trucks. Mine truck has it too. I went as far as ordering a new differential cover and to my surprise, it was bare metal, not even primed, and had rust spots on it already! Plus it had an extra fill plug and no drain plug. I returned it becuase i would have had to sand and repaitn the new cover, so I just might repaint my old one.

 

The best solution for the differential cover rust is to wire brush the cover with drill powered wire brush on the truck, then prime with black primer and give it several coats of black enamel from a spray can.

Posted

This is very common on these trucks. Mine truck has it too. I went as far as ordering a new differential cover and to my surprise, it was bare metal, not even primed, and had rust spots on it already! Plus it had an extra fill plug and no drain plug. I returned it becuase i would have had to sand and repaitn the new cover, so I just might repaint my old one.

 

The best solution for the differential cover rust is to wire brush the cover with drill powered wire brush on the truck, then prime with black primer and give it several coats of black enamel from a spray can.

I was looking for a polished stainless steel one for mine. Can't find it online anywhere.

Posted (edited)

Count me in for the rust! I've been playing with the air pressure in my tires to see if it makes a difference in the ride and vibration that I feel, and I was letting air out of the left rear tire and noticed my undercoating cracking and peeling with rust under it. Look under the truck and found more under the area of the rear door. I have spots of rust hear and there all over the frame and that's probably somewhat normal, more of a bleed through and my deaIer had my truck up on a hoist at least 3 times and where the pads touch the frame the wax came off and it's rusting. That suff Is going to happen to all the trucks but it should be peeling and cracking off in non wear areas. Checked the right side and so far it's ok but I bet it's just a matter of time.

 

I'll try to get some pics up.

Edited by Silver Spaceship
Posted

i noticed on my frame this weekend to that the ''wax'' paint can be scraped off with my finger..why dont they paint these frames with paint! im worried the pressure washer is gonna chew that stuff right off..i want my old 04 painted frame back..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I do have the 8 speed.  Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all!  I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem.  I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop.  I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.
    • Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like 
    • Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar.    One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem.    Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage.    He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit.    I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard.    I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost. 
    • Very often the part number on the trim part is just for the vendor order/assembly plant and will not show up in the parts system.  They won't make a bunch of extra parts that were not ordered. Keep in mind, lots of these parts were made to be "just in time" parts meaning they were dedicated to a vehicles ordered and sequenced for assembly.       Also, trim parts will often say, paint to match.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...