Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 11/4/2019 at 3:13 PM, delaware gmc said:

 

I went with the highest level on my truck and went with the Toyo Open Country A/T2’s. 285/60/R20..... love the set up there is slight rubbing at full tilt when turning or reversing

Posted
Highest level! 1.8" 


Awesome! I’m getting mine out on Wednesday and didn’t know if I should go highest or the 3rd notch, I appreciate it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Had Bilstein 5100's installed on the top notch then added some BFG TA ko2 in 285/70R17 Load C on my stock rims.

 

Really like the set-up so far. There may be a the slightest rub at full lock in reverse on an angle but for 99.9% of the time there is no issue.

Truck1.jpg

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Having the 5100’s installed on Monday. Now trying to figure out tire size. 
 

Would like to run 285/60/20 but it sounds like they’ll rub. Anybody running 285/55/20? Do they rub?

Posted

I would never buy ranchos or even buy a new truck upgraded with them, think z71 has em….ill do all suspension myself and just want interior options from manfctr….fabtech and rancho never again....seems a lot of peeps get spacer leveling only to lift it later ….just do it one time the right way

Posted

Put a set of 5100's on the rear a couple of nights ago and i'm wondering if it's a bad idea to remove the leaf blocks to lower it the 1.25". Has anyone ever done this? Will it damage the shock?

Posted (edited)
On 12/3/2019 at 7:55 PM, Dunn said:

I would never buy ranchos or even buy a new truck upgraded with them, think z71 has em….ill do all suspension myself and just want interior options from manfctr….fabtech and rancho never again....seems a lot of peeps get spacer leveling only to lift it later ….just do it one time the right way

Ok, was this supposed to be some type of PSA post or what was the point? Can't quit comprehend everything you wrote as it is in a text message format... 

 

Long Beach, do you run negative offset wheels by chance? Because that is no better than a spacer lift. 

 

Tyler

Edited by amxguy1970
  • 1 month later...
Posted

im new to the whoel truck scene and im waitning to replace my setup with these 5100 all the way around. i was just wondering if anyone is running an aftermarket set of springs to go along with the 5100. id really to get me a pair of springs as well. so i can have something similar to the eibach pro truck lift kit.

Posted
1 hour ago, Jorge L said:

im new to the whoel truck scene and im waitning to replace my setup with these 5100 all the way around. i was just wondering if anyone is running an aftermarket set of springs to go along with the 5100. id really to get me a pair of springs as well. so i can have something similar to the eibach pro truck lift kit.

Why not just get the 6112s up front if you want springs too. I have the 6112s up front with 5160s in the rear on my '15 and it's been a great upgrade. I don't think I could be happier.

  • Like 1
Posted
im new to the whoel truck scene and im waitning to replace my setup with these 5100 all the way around. i was just wondering if anyone is running an aftermarket set of springs to go along with the 5100. id really to get me a pair of springs as well. so i can have something similar to the eibach pro truck lift kit.
Why not just get the 6112s up front if you want springs too. I have the 6112s up front with 5160s in the rear on my '15 and it's been a great upgrade. I don't think I could be happier.
This^^^ they have better reviews.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Red_5 said:

Why not just get the 6112s up front if you want springs too. I have the 6112s up front with 5160s in the rear on my '15 and it's been a great upgrade. I don't think I could be happier.

i didnt even know these were a thing lol, however they are out of my price range as im just wanting to do a small level to my truck while i save up for a decent lift kit. so initially i was set on the bilstein 5100s all around. well then i came across the eibach pro truck lift kit and it peeked my interest due to the beefy springs. so now im torn wether i should got with the eibach kit or the bilsteins. so i figured id ask if there was a spring people were using with these 5100s apart from the oem one. something that could sill save me a few bucks. since the 5100s all around come out to 334 and the pro truck kit is 586.

Edited by Jorge L
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

think eibachs are progressive valved and bilsteins are digressive....different way of valving

 

digressive starts out firm then gets softer where progressive starts out softer and ramps up at end, just different approaches and everyone feels things differently, so just depends on what type you are

 

sucks cuz eibach had sale lil ways back and was $389 for all 4 corners, am sure it will come back at some point

  • Like 1
Posted
think eibachs are progressive valved and bilsteins are digressive....different way of valving
 
digressive starts out firm then gets softer where progressive starts out softer and ramps up at end, just different approaches and everyone feels things differently, so just depends on what type you are
 
sucks cuz eibach had sale lil ways back and was $389 for all 4 corners, am sure it will come back at some point
That seems odd, if a shock got softer as it compressed more wouldn't that be more likely to bottom out on big bumps & ride hard over minimal bumps in the road?

2014, 5.3, 4x4, work truck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,889
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    smandy
    Newest Member
    smandy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 503 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...