Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

New GM owner and member here (99 sierra 1500, 5.3). I recently changed my oil and now my oil pressure is a bit higher than normal. Idles around 55 when warm, 60ish on cold start, merging on the high way I'm in the 70's. Before the oil change I'd idle around 35 warm and merging I would get around 60 if I was on it. Any ideas what would cause this? Changed with ac delco filter p46e and mobile 1 5w30 high mileage.

  • 1 month later...
  • 5 weeks later...
Posted
On 6/26/2019 at 6:02 PM, Jim1977 said:

Seems like most relavent place to ask this.

I have an 07 classic that the oil pressure gauge is always pegged at 80 psi until you floor it, then it goes to 0 and get a warning chime. Let off the gas, pressure goes back to 80 psi.  I replaced the stepper motor in the cluster and it had no effect.

I also have an 05 yukon denali that does the exact same thing , low oil pressure warning chimes all the time when driving. Oil sending unit on this one was changed about a year ago, but not the stepper.

 

Any ideas? Thanks

 

this happened to me, and as suggested I changed out the oil pressure sensor, (no filter on 2004 5.3) and problem went right away. Also noticed that I was using a bit of oil, there was a decent amount coming from the old sensor. Was an easy change, with the right socket.

Posted

I had this issue and replaced the sensor and the filter on my 2013 LTZ.  All was well until this morning and I am getting the oil pressure issues again as I was driving to the dealership for an Airbag recall.  Should I pull the sensor and check it again?  It had only been on for a little over a month?  

Posted
19 minutes ago, Dubckeeper said:

I had this issue and replaced the sensor and the filter on my 2013 LTZ.  All was well until this morning and I am getting the oil pressure issues again as I was driving to the dealership for an Airbag recall.  Should I pull the sensor and check it again?  It had only been on for a little over a month?  

Was the filter dirty, plugged?

Posted
18 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

Was the filter dirty, plugged?

Yes, it was pretty dirty.  I had seen a few posts from CDARNAU about a fix he has ina video.  Going to look at that and see if it fixes it, but I am open to other suggestions at this point!  Love my truck, but this is getting ridiculous!

Posted

I asked because it was dirty for a reason.  To long between oil changes for the type of oil you're using. 

  • Like 1
Posted
37 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

Was the filter dirty, plugged?

 

23 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

I asked because it was dirty for a reason.  To long between oil changes for the type of oil you're using. 

I am going to pull the filter and look again and change the oil along with it.  His video shows him blowing out the sensor socket with air so I will do that as well.

Posted

If it's dirty, plugged again you have a sludge problem. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Many products available. I like Sea Foam. Walmart for best price. 

 

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

I'll go ahead and ask here, but I think it's probably the oring.

 

I have an 06 6.0 vmax with 257k with a new jasper motor put in around 180k.

 

In the mornings I'll start it, it'll climb to 40 psi then slowly drop to 1-10 psi. Sometimes it'll set off the "oil pressure low" before I even move, but no knock. I'll jump in and start driving with the psi going up around 25-35 and anytime I come to a stop, the psi drops the "oil pressure low" will start going off. When I've been driving for maybe 5 mins or warms up a lil the oil will be sitting at 40-43 psi going 70 mph down the interstate and won't lose psi after it warms up. At idle it'll stay around 30-35 psi.

 

I've changed the sending unit behind the intake with a brand new one from the Chevy house and I've changed the oil. No oil has been burnt and still full on the dip stick along with no engine codes. Ive narrowed it down to the oring on the pick up tube being bad or maybe a crack on the tube itself. Anyone have this issue happen to them or somewhat similar?

  • 4 months later...
Posted

recently purchased a 2013 Sierra, 5.3, 130k miles.

Cold start - 2-3 second delay, goes to about 40psi.

Warm idle drops to about 18psi.  hits a max of 40psi over 2500 rpms. most cruising speeds 22-25 psi.

I've checked and cleaned the sensor filter - no change.

Applied 50psi of air to the pressure sensor - the gauge matched, so the sensor is good.

Replaced the pickup tube o-ring, pressure was better by 3-5 psi for about a day, then back to 18-40 range.

 

I could replace the oil pump, but I see so many posts where it may not actually help.

Anyone figured out how to confirm if it's bearings vs the pump?

Is the pressure range I'm running not worth worrying about?

 

Posted
On 2/22/2016 at 3:27 AM, CBlazek said:

I got a 2010 with the same troubles. changes Oil Sensor. and codes still pops up. where is this little screen at?

***when you remove the oil pressure sensor, the “hole” it’s originally screwed into, if you poke your finger into the hole, you’ll feel the screen…which is just a little bit bigger than a cigarette filter (use a bolt or screw if the same diameter to remove the screen)
 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • As a matter of amusement I’ll leave this conversation with this. Do you beat the government average fuel estimate? Statistics are a guide to me. Not a rule. Someone once said I have to have the last word. If true and possible may be. I’ll blame that on working in a family business.
    • That is a fair point, and I agree that trying to log “everything in the truck” would be the wrong direction.   There are a lot of modules and a lot of traffic. If the product became a full-truck datalogger, the amount of data would get huge very quickly, and most owners would never use it.   I think the first useful version would need to be narrow: - powertrain-side event evidence - selected high-value parameters - communication / voltage / reset events - pre/post event window - short report first, raw log only as backup   One distinction I should make is between active OBD/PID polling and passive bus capture. If you are polling PIDs through OBD, then yes: the more parameters you request, the lower the effective sample rate becomes, and you are adding diagnostic traffic to a vehicle that is already busy running itself. With passive CAN capture, the recorder is not asking all the modules for data. It is listening to traffic that is already on the bus. So it does not consume vehicle bus bandwidth in the same way that a scan tool polling hundreds of PIDs would. But your point still applies in a different way.   Even if passive capture does not add bus traffic, the recorder still has limits: - processing rate - storage rate - timestamp accuracy - decoder workload - event filtering - report size - user attention span   So the answer cannot be “log everything and let the user figure it out.” The product would need to store enough raw evidence to be useful, but only decode, graph, and present the important parts around the event.   A practical report should probably show: - what triggered the capture - how much pre/post data was preserved - which selected parameters changed - how those values compared to baseline - whether the same pattern happened before - whether any voltage, reset, bus-off, lost-message, or communication fault occurred - selected graphs around the event - raw data only as supporting evidence   So I agree with you. More data is not automatically better. The real product is the reduction from raw data into a useful event report.
    • That makes sense, and I agree with most of that.   I think the product would need both: 1. a default powertrain template, so it is useful out of the box; 2. user-selected priority parameters, so the owner or shop can choose what they want to see first.   Different users are going to care about different things. One owner may care about oil pressure and voltage. Another may care about misfire trend, AFM/DFM behavior, or U-codes. A shop may want communication events and repeatability first. Your baseline point is probably the most important one. Raw data is not very useful unless the report can show what normal looked like for that vehicle under similar conditions.   The way I would think about it is: - start with a basic known-good baseline - learn normal behavior for that specific vehicle over time - allow the event to be overlaid against baseline - show whether the event was a one-time spike or a repeatable pattern - provide a simple severity level, but with clear limits on what that severity means   For example, early severity could be something like: - Info: event captured, no obvious abnormal pattern - Watch: value moved outside baseline, but not repeated - Warning: repeatable abnormal pattern under similar conditions - Critical: communication loss, voltage drop, bus-off, reset, or severe repeated event   I would not want the first version to say “replace this part.” That would be overclaiming unless there is repair-confirmed data behind it. It would be more honest to say “this pattern deserves inspection.”   On the OBD port question, I think OBD absolutely has a role. OBD is probably the right place for: - DTCs - freeze frame - VIN - calibration information - normal scan-tool parameters - Mode 6 / enhanced diagnostic data if available The reason I am still looking at an ECM-side recorder is that the failure may happen before anyone connects a scan tool. If the owner plugs in a scanner after the event, the pre-event evidence may already be gone unless the ECU happened to save it. So I do not see this as “OBD versus ECM-side.” I see it more like: - ECM-side recorder: always armed, rolling buffer, event evidence - OBD/DLC companion: DTCs, freeze frame, VIN, calibration, normal scan data - phone/cloud: status, notes, upload, report generation, notifications   I agree that phone connection and push notifications would be useful. I just would not want the phone or cloud connection to be required for capture. The recorder should save the event locally even if the phone is not connected. The phone should help with event marking, download, notes, upload, alerts, and report viewing.   For a default GM V8 event report, would this list make sense? - RPM - calculated load / MAP - throttle position - vehicle speed - gear / torque converter state if available - coolant temperature - oil pressure - oil temperature if available - battery voltage - commanded AFM/DFM state if available - actual AFM/DFM state if available - misfire counters / roughness by cylinder if available - fuel trims - relevant U-codes / communication events - bus-off / lost periodic message / module reset / voltage drop events Which of those would you remove, and what would you add?
    • I went to the county a few years back to dispute my property taxes. To do that I hired an appraiser and a lawyer. The County Assessor wished to argue that the homes in my neighborhood the appraiser used were all 'distressed properties" and not representative of the "Market Average".    My response was," Of the 50 homes in our subdivision 43 of them were "distressed properties" under bank foreclosure and as such "Distressed IS the market". Lawyer about choked on his coffee and handed the Assessor the 'receipts'.    I won that case on the evidence provided by the Lawyer and the Appraiser.    We have the same thing going on here. My statements were based on the GOVERNMENTS NATIONAL DATA and yours on local markets in areas of your interest. They are both correct....   Thing is, this divergence was based on NATIONAL and not on LOCAL. I think you even understand that. But like you said, we are both stubborn and hardheaded.    I do not see any advantage to disengagement.  But that said we can step back to compose ourselves. 
    • Trust me I appreciate the comments and concerns. It's what I was looking for to help me evaluate the situation and what I want to do. I have decided to move forward with the BORA hubcentric slip on 3/8" (.375") with the extended lugs nuts. Fedex says they should be here Monday :). Meanwhile, the dealer got the remote start and Patriot spray in bed liner done over the last couple of days. Also, I installed an inline stop/start eliminator today. Starts back up in what whatever mode you shut it off in, so you don't have to hit the button every time you fire up.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...