Jump to content

2016 Silverado LT - DL8 to DL3 Mirror Conversion - FINALLY Complete&#3


pgamboa

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 142
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

does this wiring modification have to be done only on drivers side?

It has to be done to both the driver and passenger side.

Posted

this is the ticket! $200.00 is a small price to pay for someone doing all of the research and making this a plug and play conversion, I ordered my conversion harnesses this morning. CAN't wait to " PLUG AND PLAY". iLL KEEP YOU ALL UPDATED!

Posted

So the guy I bought my mirrors from gave me both the door harnesses off his truck. He had a 2500 diesel SLT and he had to replace his harnesses for his tow mirrors. I know some guys have replaced their door harnesses rather than tap and run individual wires. Anyone know the door harness part numbers needed so I can compare them with what I have?

Posted

this is the ticket! $200.00 is a small price to pay for someone doing all of the research and making this a plug and play conversion, I ordered my conversion harnesses this morning. CAN't wait to " PLUG AND PLAY". iLL KEEP YOU ALL UPDATED!

 

Mail in your old harness and it's only $160. Even better! lol.

 

So the guy I bought my mirrors from gave me both the door harnesses off his truck. He had a 2500 diesel SLT and he had to replace his harnesses for his tow mirrors. I know some guys have replaced their door harnesses rather than tap and run individual wires. Anyone know the door harness part numbers needed so I can compare them with what I have?

 

Do you have a diesel? I have heard that the diesel trucks have an ambient temp sensor in the pass mirror and when installed on gasser trucks it will throw a check engine light.

Mail in your old harness and it's only $160. Even better! lol.

Posted

this is the ticket! $200.00 is a small price to pay for someone doing all of the research and making this a plug and play conversion, I ordered my conversion harnesses this morning. CAN't wait to " PLUG AND PLAY". iLL KEEP YOU ALL UPDATED!

where did you order conversion harness?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

 

Mail in your old harness and it's only $160. Even better! lol.

can you elaborate? Mail it where? How long is the turn around?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Hey all,

 

I am the one that makes the custom harnesses. I am doing these are time permits. Currently, I have one going out the door today. I will have another set completed today.

 

I currently have a 2016 LT Crew Cab, Short Bed, Gas 5.3L. The DL3 Mirrors I bought were from a Diesel Truck that has the ambient temp on the passenger side. I have no issues with Check Engine Light except for the "add windshield wash" message :).

 

I am basically selling a completed custom set (Both Passenger and Driver) for $200 Shipped. Once you install it and confirmed functionality, I will refund $40 for your stock set harnesses.

 

Hope this helps. PM for any questions.

 

I also started a new thread in the For Sale Section for the description the customization.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/194728-custom-plug-and-play-dl8-harness-to-make-your-dl3-mirrors-fully-functional/

Posted

Guess this will no longer be a help topic but sales.

There is no GM harness that you can buy to make your DL3 mirrors work in a DL8 optioned truck.

 

Clipping or removing the wires on the DL3 harness will not work. The way a DL3 harness is wired is much more complicated than a DL8 harness. There are lots of additional wires not used in the DL8 optioned truck that are tied into connectors X500/X510/X505 on the drivers side & the passenger side connectors X600/X610/X605. You would have to remove/cut/un-pin at lest 16 wires if not more. It is much easier to install the 3 wires per side on your existing harness then to modify the DL3 harness's.

 

You have 3 options to make a DL8 to DL3 conversion work.

 

1) Keeping your DL8 harness's that are OE to your truck you only have to add/splice in 3 wires per door (Driver and Passenger door = 6 wires)

 

2) If you want to use the DL3 Harness you have to havest "Un-Pin and remove" the 6 wires needed and then repin the 6 wires needed into your DL8 harness.

 

3) for those who do not want to add wires to you harness you can just contact the creator of this topic Pagomba and he will make you a set of plug and play harness's for a very reasonable fee.

Posted

There is no GM harness that you can buy to make your DL3 mirrors work in a DL8 optioned truck.

 

Clipping or removing the wires on the DL3 harness will not work. The way a DL3 harness is wired is much more complicated than a DL8 harness. There are lots of additional wires not used in the DL8 optioned truck that are tied into connectors X500/X510/X505 on the drivers side & the passenger side connectors X600/X610/X605. You would have to remove/cut/un-pin at lest 16 wires if not more. It is much easier to install the 3 wires per side on your existing harness then to modify the DL3 harness's.

 

You have 3 options to make a DL8 to DL3 conversion work.

 

1) Keeping your DL8 harness's that are OE to your truck you only have to add/splice in 3 wires per door (Driver and Passenger door = 6 wires)

 

2) If you want to use the DL3 Harness you have to havest "Un-Pin and remove" the 6 wires needed and then repin the 6 wires needed into your DL8 harness.

 

3) for those who do not want to add wires to you harness you can just contact the creator of this topic Pagomba and he will make you a set of plug and play harness's for a very reasonable fee.

 

Alexantics nailed it on the head with the description.

 

I learned the hard way by trying and making the DL3 Harness work. I was able to achieve that. Was it easy, no. It took a lot of time, patience, trial & error. I will continue to contribute to this forum and these mirrors as needed and have absolutely no problem providing the solution to the fix. What I am saying is that I will have customized DL8 Harnesses that should allow this be "plug and play" for those that do not want to spend the time to figure things out. It is easier to add the 3 wires to a DL8 Harness for each side. However, you will need the appropriate crimp tools, wires, terminal ends, automotive harness tape, and know how to get it pinned right. In the near future, I will also provide a DIY "kit" you can buy if you want to DIY. If you have questions on what pins are needed to make this work, I will also provide that info. I am not withholding any information on how to get this to work, just a means to make it easy for those that want it plug and play.

Posted

Right on, thanks guys. I don't typically keep my trucks long but had to have the folding option, which is working. I myself probably won't mess with the signals because I'll probably swipe them back off when I sell it.

Posted

I have another custom DL8 Harness Set ready to go for anyone interested. PM for details.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I have another custom DL8 Harness Set ready to go for anyone interested.

So if I understand you correctly, you add the necessary wires to the door harness, the one that plugs into the door jam and runs up to the mirror harness.

By doing this you eliminate the tapping for power under the dash also correct?

 

That is what I found to be the hardest part of this mod, the search for power under the dash.

 

You obviously have to crimp tool and pins for this mod.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...