Jump to content

2016 Silverado LT - DL8 to DL3 Mirror Conversion - FINALLY Complete&#3

pgamboa

By pgamboa
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

A.J. Curtis Enthusiast

A.J. Curtis

Posted
Posted

OK question, I currently have a 2016 Sierra SLT and it has the Power heated turn signal and power fold features. If I change over to the tow mirros with same options, I don't think I will have to change the wiring harness will I? Iv seen some after market versions also, lot less than factory with all these options, should be just a plug and play? Anyone know for sure?

This topic is aboot the non row mirror dl8 non power fold non signal mirror swap to dl3 power fold/signal/puddle lamp conversion.

I think you are good if your order the correct power fold switch with the mirrors. Read the first post on the link below then go through the post to verify!

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/164349-201415-hd-powerfold-oem-tow-mirrors-the-ones-weve-been-waiting/page-1

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 142
  • Created
  • Last Reply
neloms Enthusiast

neloms

Posted
Posted

Sorry, I didn't see the part numbers for the DL3 mirrors anywhere, just the harnesses and switch. What are the DL3 part numbers? I want to do this on my 2016 Tahoe LT, assuming this is all the same.

  • 2 weeks later...
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you so much NoTyme!

When I get some time "free time" I am going to see what way will work best for me. I am hoping that my late 2015 build truck already has the wires and pins at the body to door connector *X500*

 

Then in theory I just have to add the two wires harvested from the DL3 harness for the signal and puddle lamp from connector *X500* pins #3 & 41 that go to connector *X510* pins #1 & 13.

 

You are correct in adding these 2 wires for puddle and turn onto the DL8 harness set. I'm helping another member that lives close by tomorrow and will be doing this. Don't forget the ground. Since the X500 only has 1 ground connection (pin 2), you'll need to harvest a pin/wire for the X510 and splice into the ground wire. If you unwrap the wire loom, GM does several wire splices into the ground wire that ultimately lands onto pin 2 of the X500 connector.

  • 2 weeks later...
Will2015 Enthusiast

Will2015

Posted
Posted

I did this mod but my puddle lights are really dim like to the point you can't tell they're on unless you look real close under the mirror

Klutch Enthusiast

Klutch

Posted
Posted

No Tyme, there are several lengthy threads about adding power folding/signal mirrors. I have my switch on the way. I was wondering, lost among the sprawled out threads did you ever elaborate, preferably with photos, on how to add the additional wires? I'd love to get the signals working as well as the fold feature but am having a tough time sorting through the info floating around.

No Tyme Senior Enthusiast

No Tyme

Posted
Posted

No Tyme, there are several lengthy threads about adding power folding/signal mirrors. I have my switch on the way. I was wondering, lost among the sprawled out threads did you ever elaborate, preferably with photos, on how to add the additional wires? I'd love to get the signals working as well as the fold feature but am having a tough time sorting through the info floating around.

Sorry, no pics. But the process is fairly simple.

I made the necessary connections on the mirror harness by soldering the wires and covering with shrink tubing. Then with the mirror installed on the door I ran the two wires into some shrink tubing for a little extra protection, but that also that kept them from becoming separated if they were to come in contact with any type of a snag.

To run the wires thru the door jam I pulled the boot from the body side of the cab, compressed the black tubing as if it were a slinky contracting and use a taped covered (on the tip) cloths hanger to enter the door from the jam side, into the door. Once inside the door I attached the wires to the coat hanger and pulled them thru the rubber tubing which gave me the 2 wires I needed for this mod out of the door.

I then used that cloths hanger with the wires already tapped to it, into the body of the truck. Its a process of bending the cloths hanger and "fishing" thru the side of the cab. I put a slight bend in the hanger so it would come out under the dash instead of up into the dash area.

It really sounds harder that doing, but once you have the door apart and you park yourself on a short stool (mine has wheels) it is a simple process. Just takes patience and a beer or two, LOL.

No Tyme Senior Enthusiast

No Tyme

Posted
Posted

Once the wires are in the dash area the tap process is difficult because of the fact that (for me) working on my back looking up and finding the correct wire to tap. You will have 3 connections, left turn, right turn and your puddle lights. Don't forget to join the two wires on the mirrors harness because the turn had their own ground separate from the mirrors heater or adjust motors ground.

 

Post # 76 will show you location of the ground needed.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/158727-power-folding-mirror-upgrade/page-6

Will2015 Enthusiast

Will2015

Posted
Posted

Once the wires are in the dash area the tap process is difficult because of the fact that (for me) working on my back looking up and finding the correct wire to tap. You will have 3 connections, left turn, right turn and your puddle lights. Don't forget to join the two wires on the mirrors harness because the turn had their own ground separate from the mirrors heater or adjust motors ground.

 

Post # 76 will show you location of the ground needed.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/158727-power-folding-mirror-upgrade/page-6

Where did you connect your puddle lights under the dash? I unpinned a factory harness and ran everything to their stock location but my puddle lights come on very dim. You can't see that they're on. So I'm wondering if I need to run another wire to hard wire into module or maybe both puddle lights are burned out or something.

No Tyme Senior Enthusiast

No Tyme

Posted
Posted

Have you checked your voltage on that wire, the power for the puddle lights?

 

I dig into my notes after I get back today and see if I can pinpoint the location I used. Sometimes just using a test light you can tell, but my thought is that there is something else going on.

Will2015 Enthusiast

Will2015

Posted
Posted

I haven't checked the voltage. I'll have to take the door panels apart again to do so. I used pin #3 for the puddles and #41 for the signals. Then on the mirror plug I added pin #1 & #13 and joined pin #7 ground to 11 ground. Before I tore apart the original dl3 harness I plugged it in to see what would happen and turn signals worked but puddles were dim like they are now. I figured since that harness had extra wires it would have something to do with it. I also turned locator light setting on and off and nothing happens.

Will2015 Enthusiast

Will2015

Posted
Posted

Checked voltage with my power probe and one wire is ground the other is not showing voltage but a signal showing 2.2

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • MANGOAL
      Mangoal or FitcamX OEM Dashcam?

      By MANGOAL · Posted

      Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • davester
      2002 GMC Yukon

      By davester · Posted

      There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • davester
      Weight limit in bed

      By davester · Posted

      Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • EJS2015
      Actual Full Screen CarPlay on Refreshed Silverado/Sierras.

      By EJS2015 · Posted

      Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...