Jump to content

2016 Silverado LT - DL8 to DL3 Mirror Conversion - FINALLY Complete&#3

pgamboa

By pgamboa
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Hello Everyone.

 

I wanted to start this thread with saying that I am new to this forum and new to the Silverado Truck. I have owned many Tahoes & Suburbans in the last 15 years. This is my 1st Silverado.

 

My truck is a 2016 Silverado 1500 LT - Crew Cab. Came with the standard DL8 Mirrors. Power Adjust and Heated. Had I known the differences between trim levels, I would have gone with the LTZ Model. Lesson Learned.

 

Like those that have this trim level, I wanted to convert from DL8 to DL3 Mirror with Turn Signal and Power Fold. I found a set on eBay that came with the harnesses that were take offs from a 2015 Silverado Duramax 2500HD. I bit the bullet and bought them.

 

Like everyone who has tried this - I ended up with the same results. Installed new mirrors, harnesses, and switch. The only thing that worked were Turn Signals and Puddle Lamps for both mirrors. I was only able to get up/down adjust on the driver's side, no control on the passenger side whatsoever, no power fold functionality.

 

I spent the last two weeks reading up on the GMUpfitter Manual trying to understand why. After seeing the various connectors for the Mirror, Door Trim, and Door Hinge Connections, I realized why things didn't work. Like others, I realized that this was NOT a plug and play scenario.

 

However, after spending the time, I was FINALLY able to get this conversion done. I have functional DL3 Mirrors on both Driver and Passenger sides. I have Turn Signals, Puddle Lamp, Power Adjust, Power Fold, and Heated. All using the Factory Switch. I don't have Auto Dimming (which is dependent on a circuit that is tied to the Auto Dimming Rear View Mirror that i don't have) and Reverse Tilt (from what I've read, requires BCM Programming to have that option in the DIC). I also don't have Power Fold when locked/unlocked with the Key Fob (also think this may be a BCM program option).

 

I ended up doing a Connector - Cross Reference Sheet to compare what pins/wires were missing from each connector, for each door, between the new harness and the original harness. I quickly learned that the new harness had more pins loaded than the original harness. Since the new harness had the most pins loaded, I wanted to continue with the new harness, and use my original harness as the "donor" harness to acquire the missing wires/pins from. Some of these connections will require a splice. This process requires no wires going through door hinge and no BCM programming.

 

There are (3) Connectors from the Driver's Side and the same (3) Connectors from the Passenger Side that you will need to focus on.

 

Driver Side Connectors - X500, X505, X510

Passenger Side Connectors - X600, X605, X610

 

Pages 1521 - 1548 in the GM Upfitter Manual shows the detailed pin out and circuits for references.

 

In my cross reference sheet, I include the part #'s that I have for both existing harnesses and the new harnesses. You will also see the missing pins from each harness, each connector.

 

The new bezel switch part # is 23154702.

 

After checking all the pins that I had loaded on the new harnesses, I came to the realization that these DL3 Mirrors came off of a truck that also have the Seat Memory Switch. A couple of the circuits are dependent of the Seat Memory Switch which would explain some of the different options on the pin out. i went down the road of thinking I could add the Seat Memory Switch and gain additional functionality. The problem is - The door trim panel connector doesn't have all the pins for the Seat Memory Switch to function.

 

OK - So now I've concluded that I cannot have Seat Memory functionality without a new door trim harness connector (that only seems to come with a new door panel w/memory package). I wasn't looking at spending $400 for a new panel.

 

I want to say that the most painful part in this whole process, was harvesting the missing wires/pins that I needed to load onto the new harness without damaging them. Also, when inserting the wires/pins into the new harness, you have to be ABSOLUTELY sure you are inserting it into the right pin and the right circuit. Once you insert it, you CANNOT remove it (unless you have the right pin removal tool) or cut it. I meticulously labeled EVERYTHING to avoid this confusion and wanted this to be as Factory as possible. Once I removed the wires/pin, I starting losing track of what they were, where they go, and where they came from. I labeled each end. Once I started cutting into the existing harness, I was at a point of no return. Please do this at your own risk!

 

Here is the Cross Reference Connector Sheet I made to show all the connections.

Connector Reference.pdf

 

Here are some photos of the process:

 

After I was all through, I rewrapped the harness with "friction tape" bought from Home Depot. It is the same tape that was used on the harness.

 

If you have any questions, please let me know. Please note that while pins/wires were missing on one end of a connector, there were already loaded on the other end. Due to the "options" of the Seat Memory switch, some wires went to different places that ended up getting "abandoned" since I chose not to go the Seat Memory route. I had to splice into existing pins/wires that were already loaded due to this.

 

Good Luck! Hope this helps those who have tried or are trying to get this done! It IS possible, just requires some work and patience.

 

28706140910_deb7fac789_k.jpgSide_by_side by pgamboa, on Flickr

 

28372760944_df9056165a_k.jpgIMG_4482 by pgamboa, on Flickr

 

28372761694_d69a5ab242_k.jpgIMG_4481 by pgamboa, on Flickr

 

28915898731_1bf0e44032_z.jpgWires-Pins_Labeled by pgamboa, on Flickr

 

28372739954_00fbb85dad_k.jpgWires-Pins_Inserted_labeled_3 by pgamboa, on Flickr

 

28372740384_62a3061dfd_k.jpgWires-Pins_Inserted_labeled_2 by pgamboa, on Flickr

 

28992177145_059b7258b9_k.jpgSpliced_Butt_Splice by pgamboa, on Flickr

 

28992175965_1c10b43e3e_k.jpgSpliced_Heat_Shrink by pgamboa, on Flickr

 

28992186055_7f526fcea8_k.jpgIMG_4524 by pgamboa, on Flickr

Connector Reference.pdf

Connector Reference.pdf

Connector Reference.pdf

  • Replies 142
  • Created
  • Last Reply
A.J. Curtis Enthusiast

A.J. Curtis

Posted
Posted

WOW! Thank you so much for the great write up! I wish there was a faster plug and play way, but if that is what has to be done then challenge accepted!

No Tyme Senior Enthusiast

No Tyme

Posted
Posted

Very nice work with the pins. As anal as I am I would have done this if I had seen this earlier but I completed mine with 2 extra wires run and the gound wires in the mirror end tied together.

Very nice work.

Crooks Enthusiast

Crooks

Posted
Posted

Very nice work with the pins. As anal as I am I would have done this if I had seen this earlier but I completed mine with 2 extra wires run and the gound wires in the mirror end tied together.

Very nice work.

Where is the write up for that?

No Tyme Senior Enthusiast

No Tyme

Posted
Posted

Where is the write up for that?

Which write up? My adding 2 wires?

A.J. Curtis Enthusiast

A.J. Curtis

Posted
Posted

Which write up? My adding 2 wires?

I'd like more details on this? Are you just adding a jumper from the x510 to the x505 connector? How did you pin the connection?
No Tyme Senior Enthusiast

No Tyme

Posted
Posted

I'd like more details on this? Are you just adding a jumper from the x510 to the x505 connector? How did you pin the connection?

You would need to direct that to pgamboa. I ran 2 wires for power for the signals and puddle lights. He is the one who re-pined the connectors.

A.J. Curtis Enthusiast

A.J. Curtis

Posted
Posted

You would need to direct that to pgamboa. I ran 2 wires for power for the signals and puddle lights. He is the one who re-pined the connectors.

ha! I'm sorry for the confusion No Tyme! I was asking for details on where and how you added the two wires. I think I found your post in a different topic though.

 

I ordered two of the terminal remover tools so hopefully I can complete this conversion just like Pgamboa did!

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I would love to see the terminal remover tools.

 

I also want to do a cross reference to see if adding the two wires for just the turn signal and puddle lamps is less work than the way I did it. I thought I could gain functionality of the Seat Memory, Auto Dim, and the extra Serial Data Bus # 8 connection, but found out those wouldn't work anyway.... And I had already cut into the DL8 Harnesses. So I was at a point of no return and HAD to make the DL3 harness work.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No Tyme Senior Enthusiast

No Tyme

Posted
Posted

yes

OK, I got most of my info from this posting as far as wire color and pin locations.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/178860-how-to-install-dl3-mirrors-in-2014-lighting-only/

 

Here is another useful link.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/158727-power-folding-mirror-upgrade/

 

I just stripped a half inch of the wire on the harness of the mirror, wrapped my added wire to the stripped area and soldered. I then had two wires I needed for puddle light and signal power and had to run them thru the door jam. You can see in the link additional info: with a coat hanger you can snake the new wires through the rubber protective material, i wasn't as bad as you would think, just take your time and have a beer, LOL.

The first link post # 16 is VERY important, There is a ground already to the mirror and I just tapped into it (connected two wires on the mirrors harness before install to share the ground).

Let me know if you have more questions...

A.J. Curtis Enthusiast

A.J. Curtis

Posted
Posted

OK, I got most of my info from this posting as far as wire color and pin locations.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/178860-how-to-install-dl3-mirrors-in-2014-lighting-only/

 

Here is another useful link.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/158727-power-folding-mirror-upgrade/

 

I just stripped a half inch of the wire on the harness of the mirror, wrapped my added wire to the stripped area and soldered. I then had two wires I needed for puddle light and signal power and had to run them thru the door jam. You can see in the link additional info: with a coat hanger you can snake the new wires through the rubber protective material, i wasn't as bad as you would think, just take your time and have a beer, LOL.

The first link post # 16 is VERY important, There is a ground already to the mirror and I just tapped into it (connected two wires on the mirrors harness before install to share the ground).

Let me know if you have more questions...

Thank you so much NoTyme!

When I get some time "free time" I am going to see what way will work best for me. I am hoping that my late 2015 build truck already has the wires and pins at the body to door connector *X500*

 

Then in theory I just have to add the two wires harvested from the DL3 harness for the signal and puddle lamp from connector *X500* pins #3 & 41 that go to connector *X510* pins #1 & 13.

No Tyme Senior Enthusiast

No Tyme

Posted
Posted

Thank you so much NoTyme!

When I get some time "free time" I am going to see what way will work best for me. I am hoping that my late 2015 build truck already has the wires and pins at the body to door connector *X500*

 

Then in theory I just have to add the two wires harvested from the DL3 harness for the signal and puddle lamp from connector *X500* pins #3 & 41 that go to connector *X510* pins #1 & 13.

No worries: There has been many posts on this mod. Some swapping out other harness's and some wiring direct, like me. One thing seems to stand out is the door switch. Some are now finding it hard to find the right on. I purchased it from 2 web sites and had my money refunded because it was out of stock.

I recommend getting the switch first. Without it you have to use a momentary switch like I did in my 2013 Silverado. Thats another ballgame. MOD ON

A.J. Curtis Enthusiast

A.J. Curtis

Posted
Posted

I heard about the Switch issue and ordered it immediately before even getting the mirrors lol. I have the right switch installed and the mirrors fold properly. I sourced my switch from ebay. They still have a few left if anyone needs one get em soon! I might order a back switch just encase I mess mine up.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131776697680?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I might order one of the "Universal Smart Vehicle Side Mirror Auto Folding/Unfolding Controller Module"

 

I would like to have the mirrors fold in when I turn the truck off& or lock the truck and fold out when I start the truck

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • txab
      Gas Prices

      By txab · Posted

      $3.59  
    • needafix
      2019+ Brake failure, it's complicated

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
    • Another JR
      Trailer TPS Sensor Question Rim Size

      By Another JR · Posted

      Grommets with the right cement should be perfectly fine. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      This is going to take allot of Assembly    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...