Jump to content

Fluid Film

tuckersnator

Recommended Posts

tuckersnator Enthusiast

tuckersnator

Posted
Posted

I know there are a ton of posts about frame rust and Fluid Film but I wanted to post my experience and to warn everyone. I like many others want to keep this truck a while. When I asked the sales rep at my dealer about the frame wax, he said to use Fluid Film... I also read both good and bad things on this forum. As the winter was fast approaching, I had to do something so went the FF route. Mostly just around where there were welds and holes in the frame. My friend has a 2014 with plenty of rust so I targeted specific areas that I saw on his truck. Well after one winter, here is the result. EDIT: Yes it was after using a regular garden hose nozzle for washing.

 

post-158055-0-98863600-1492457809_thumb.jpg

 

It just peels off like black latex. I know I took a chance, (and did see the warning on the can about possible effects on different undercoats) but was hoping it would just soften and then stay "fluidy"- not actually fall off. Don't get me wrong, FF is a great product and its GM's fault that they cheaped out on the frame wax. I have since ordered and applied the Amsoil HD Metal Protectant so we'll see how that goes.

 

I just wanted to get some solid evidence out there for others. Again, I am not bashing Fluid Film, just warning people not to use it on the frame.

post-158055-0-98863600-1492457809_thumb.jpg

post-158055-0-98863600-1492457809_thumb.jpg

post-158055-0-98863600-1492457809_thumb.jpg

Sierra 5.3 Enthusiast

Sierra 5.3

Posted
Posted

Did it peel back on it's own, or did you rub/scratch it off? Did it come off using a pressure washer? I would like more info. I bought two cans but have yet to apply it. I know a lot of people on here use it, so knowing more information is power.

tuckersnator Enthusiast

tuckersnator

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Did it peel back on it's own, or did you rub/scratch it off? Did it come off using a pressure washer? I would like more info. I bought two cans but have yet to apply it. I know a lot of people on here use it, so knowing more information is power.

 

It was after using a regular garden hose - not power washer. I updated the original post. What you see was literally peeled off using low pressure water.

Sierra 5.3 Enthusiast

Sierra 5.3

Posted
Posted

Damn. This makes me want to find something else now. It's a shame GM puts garbage coating on the frame of these trucks. $50k+ trucks and you have a rusted frame in a year, if not less.

camcamaro1991 Enthusiast

camcamaro1991

Posted
Posted

OP, GM's frame coating is a wax-like film (Nox Rust X-121B), it comes off with the scrap of your fingernail.... a pressure washer cut human flesh to the bone, so that means nothing. Nox Rust X-121B was designed this way and that's what GM wanted. Its not what the customer wants but that's another story.

 

2ndly how close where you with the pressure washer? I have a home pressure washer with 3200psi I dont get that close to the frame and it's just fine.

 

I bought a 12 pack for touch ups, every time it goes to the dealer or I add my GM borla I scrape a little here and there, spray let dry and done, did this on my 2013 Denali 4 years no issues Nox Rust X-121B, do the same on my 2016 Denali

 

https://www.daubertchemical.com/store/product-list/corrosion-prevention/nox-rust-x-121b

 

lastly when you mix 2 coatings without research you asking for trouble it may soften the Nox Rust X-121B, I mean you did combine 2 rust preventives, but by the looks of how close you are to the frame any pressure washer will do that to wax.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

I've made mention of this on various posts. Don't use anything but the NoxRust on the frames. Fluid Film and other aerosol rust protection items will wipe that wax off really fast.

 

The wax works fine as long as it cures. Its not GM's fault that what you sprayed took it off.

tuckersnator Enthusiast

tuckersnator

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OP, GM's frame coating is a wax-like film (Nox Rust X-121B), it comes off with the scrap of your fingernail.... a pressure washer cut human flesh to the bone, so that means nothing. Nox Rust X-121B was designed this way and that's what GM wanted. Its not what the customer wants but that's another story.

 

2ndly how close where you with the pressure washer? I have a home pressure washer with 3200psi I dont get that close to the frame and it's just fine.

 

I bought a 12 pack for touch ups, every time it goes to the dealer or I add my GM borla I scrape a little here and there, spray let dry and done, did this on my 2013 Denali 4 years no issues Nox Rust X-121B, do the same on my 2016 Denali

 

https://www.daubertchemical.com/store/product-list/corrosion-prevention/nox-rust-x-121b

 

lastly when you mix 2 coatings without research you asking for trouble it may soften the Nox Rust X-121B, I mean you did combine 2 rust preventives, but by the looks of how close you are to the frame any pressure washer will do that to wax.

 

I was only using a garden hose, not a pressure washer. Also, I was just trying to prevent rust from occurring in known areas based on a recommendation from the a salesman and reading here.

tuckersnator Enthusiast

tuckersnator

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've made mention of this on various posts. Don't use anything but the NoxRust on the frames. Fluid Film and other aerosol rust protection items will wipe that wax off really fast.

 

The wax works fine as long as it cures. Its not GM's fault that what you sprayed took it off.

No I guess it is not their fault but that I was trying to prevent the frame from becoming a rusty mess. The wax does not work in my opinion as it scraps off easily and cracks over time allowing metal to be exposed. I have looked at other frames from similar years and they are a mess. Once the metal starts to rust, I can't imagine spraying wax back over it will help. All I was really implying is that we shouldn't even have to worry about this on trucks that are 2-3 years old. I mean mine only has 8800 miles and there is rust wherever the wax is scraped off. Sorry but I wasn't trying to start an argument, just wanted to post some hard evidence since there are a lot of post stating that FF is fine on the wax.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

No I guess it is not their fault but that I was trying to prevent the frame from becoming a rusty mess. The wax does not work in my opinion as it scraps off easily and cracks over time allowing metal to be exposed. I have looked at other frames from similar years and they are a mess. Once the metal starts to rust, I can't imagine spraying wax back over it will help. All I was really implying is that we shouldn't even have to worry about this on trucks that are 2-3 years old. I mean mine only has 8800 miles and there is rust wherever the wax is scraped off. Sorry but I wasn't trying to start an argument, just wanted to post some hard evidence since there are a lot of post stating that FF is fine on the wax.

 

No argument here lol. I learned what FF does to that stuff same way. Worked great protecting the hitch and axles and sheet metal, but man that frame... Brake cleaner does the same thing to the stuff, except that eats it instantly.

tuckersnator Enthusiast

tuckersnator

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update: I sprayed the Amsoil HD Metal Protector on the spot after I wiped the FF and wax off and man is that stuff nice! It really does what it says and dries to a non-tacky wax and doesn't penetrate/loosen the existing wax. So far so good.

Dexter10 Enthusiast

Dexter10

Posted
Posted

Fluid film and the factory wax stuff don't play well with each other. My 2015 is slowly getting the fluid film as needed or on spots where I see rust. Eventually it will be coated twice a year.

 

Wife's 2006 yukon has 130k on it and fluid film from day one. Still looks new underneath. Liquid gold!!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ShamrockShooter Senior Enthusiast

ShamrockShooter

Posted
Posted

Make sure you lower the spare tire. I just removed mine to install an exhaust. The entire frame where the tire touches it is solid rust on my 16.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      That's interesting, I assume that would add to the cost of the oil but also I was forgetting to bring up the issue of the low tension rings allowing more oil past which in turn forces the cats to have more oil additives pass through them that wouldn't otherwise so they are creating that problem and of course its all in the name of fuel economy. Mind you the other issue would be the lack of additives that fight the formation of carbon within the piston ring grooves which turn the engine into an oil burner and with in this GM forums case is your average off the shelf Dexos licensed oil, meanwhile the other off the shelf oil being Valvoline's R&P isn't licensed and the only one that is which is that certain Mobil oil that came out recently ( its not even being marketed in Canada ) and only a fraction of vehicle owners are going to be using it out of all the other oils on the shelf or the quickie lube bay that meet the Dexos spec by way of actual licensing.    Also I suspect that its an easy excuse to pool the non turbo DI engines in with the turbo DI engines and design the oil to not have LSPI issues in the most demanding engines and short change the naturally aspirated DI by not offering a higher concentration of additive package they could handle and still not be at risk of LSPI.    I wonder if Amsoil flipped the switch just lately and did whatever packaging designation at the same time as I wonder what oil formulation I would have bought in May, of course I don't know when it was packaged at the factory vs how long it was in storage at the Edmonton warehouse. I know its been said at least in the past that the big players switch over to a reformulated oil but the packaging has not changed until they make that move as well so there is that cross over time where its a new formulation in a predated formula marked package. 
    • PunchT37
      OCI, not when but why?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Hmm. A real reason to not just use the odometer to determine OCI?    
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • StingerZ16
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By StingerZ16 · Posted

      I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...