Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I know there are a ton of posts about frame rust and Fluid Film but I wanted to post my experience and to warn everyone. I like many others want to keep this truck a while. When I asked the sales rep at my dealer about the frame wax, he said to use Fluid Film... I also read both good and bad things on this forum. As the winter was fast approaching, I had to do something so went the FF route. Mostly just around where there were welds and holes in the frame. My friend has a 2014 with plenty of rust so I targeted specific areas that I saw on his truck. Well after one winter, here is the result. EDIT: Yes it was after using a regular garden hose nozzle for washing.

 

post-158055-0-98863600-1492457809_thumb.jpg

 

It just peels off like black latex. I know I took a chance, (and did see the warning on the can about possible effects on different undercoats) but was hoping it would just soften and then stay "fluidy"- not actually fall off. Don't get me wrong, FF is a great product and its GM's fault that they cheaped out on the frame wax. I have since ordered and applied the Amsoil HD Metal Protectant so we'll see how that goes.

 

I just wanted to get some solid evidence out there for others. Again, I am not bashing Fluid Film, just warning people not to use it on the frame.

post-158055-0-98863600-1492457809_thumb.jpg

post-158055-0-98863600-1492457809_thumb.jpg

post-158055-0-98863600-1492457809_thumb.jpg

Posted

Did it peel back on it's own, or did you rub/scratch it off? Did it come off using a pressure washer? I would like more info. I bought two cans but have yet to apply it. I know a lot of people on here use it, so knowing more information is power.

Posted

Did it peel back on it's own, or did you rub/scratch it off? Did it come off using a pressure washer? I would like more info. I bought two cans but have yet to apply it. I know a lot of people on here use it, so knowing more information is power.

 

It was after using a regular garden hose - not power washer. I updated the original post. What you see was literally peeled off using low pressure water.

Posted

Damn. This makes me want to find something else now. It's a shame GM puts garbage coating on the frame of these trucks. $50k+ trucks and you have a rusted frame in a year, if not less.

Posted

OP, GM's frame coating is a wax-like film (Nox Rust X-121B), it comes off with the scrap of your fingernail.... a pressure washer cut human flesh to the bone, so that means nothing. Nox Rust X-121B was designed this way and that's what GM wanted. Its not what the customer wants but that's another story.

 

2ndly how close where you with the pressure washer? I have a home pressure washer with 3200psi I dont get that close to the frame and it's just fine.

 

I bought a 12 pack for touch ups, every time it goes to the dealer or I add my GM borla I scrape a little here and there, spray let dry and done, did this on my 2013 Denali 4 years no issues Nox Rust X-121B, do the same on my 2016 Denali

 

https://www.daubertchemical.com/store/product-list/corrosion-prevention/nox-rust-x-121b

 

lastly when you mix 2 coatings without research you asking for trouble it may soften the Nox Rust X-121B, I mean you did combine 2 rust preventives, but by the looks of how close you are to the frame any pressure washer will do that to wax.

Posted

I've made mention of this on various posts. Don't use anything but the NoxRust on the frames. Fluid Film and other aerosol rust protection items will wipe that wax off really fast.

 

The wax works fine as long as it cures. Its not GM's fault that what you sprayed took it off.

Posted

OP, GM's frame coating is a wax-like film (Nox Rust X-121B), it comes off with the scrap of your fingernail.... a pressure washer cut human flesh to the bone, so that means nothing. Nox Rust X-121B was designed this way and that's what GM wanted. Its not what the customer wants but that's another story.

 

2ndly how close where you with the pressure washer? I have a home pressure washer with 3200psi I dont get that close to the frame and it's just fine.

 

I bought a 12 pack for touch ups, every time it goes to the dealer or I add my GM borla I scrape a little here and there, spray let dry and done, did this on my 2013 Denali 4 years no issues Nox Rust X-121B, do the same on my 2016 Denali

 

https://www.daubertchemical.com/store/product-list/corrosion-prevention/nox-rust-x-121b

 

lastly when you mix 2 coatings without research you asking for trouble it may soften the Nox Rust X-121B, I mean you did combine 2 rust preventives, but by the looks of how close you are to the frame any pressure washer will do that to wax.

 

I was only using a garden hose, not a pressure washer. Also, I was just trying to prevent rust from occurring in known areas based on a recommendation from the a salesman and reading here.

Posted

I've made mention of this on various posts. Don't use anything but the NoxRust on the frames. Fluid Film and other aerosol rust protection items will wipe that wax off really fast.

 

The wax works fine as long as it cures. Its not GM's fault that what you sprayed took it off.

No I guess it is not their fault but that I was trying to prevent the frame from becoming a rusty mess. The wax does not work in my opinion as it scraps off easily and cracks over time allowing metal to be exposed. I have looked at other frames from similar years and they are a mess. Once the metal starts to rust, I can't imagine spraying wax back over it will help. All I was really implying is that we shouldn't even have to worry about this on trucks that are 2-3 years old. I mean mine only has 8800 miles and there is rust wherever the wax is scraped off. Sorry but I wasn't trying to start an argument, just wanted to post some hard evidence since there are a lot of post stating that FF is fine on the wax.

Posted

No I guess it is not their fault but that I was trying to prevent the frame from becoming a rusty mess. The wax does not work in my opinion as it scraps off easily and cracks over time allowing metal to be exposed. I have looked at other frames from similar years and they are a mess. Once the metal starts to rust, I can't imagine spraying wax back over it will help. All I was really implying is that we shouldn't even have to worry about this on trucks that are 2-3 years old. I mean mine only has 8800 miles and there is rust wherever the wax is scraped off. Sorry but I wasn't trying to start an argument, just wanted to post some hard evidence since there are a lot of post stating that FF is fine on the wax.

 

No argument here lol. I learned what FF does to that stuff same way. Worked great protecting the hitch and axles and sheet metal, but man that frame... Brake cleaner does the same thing to the stuff, except that eats it instantly.

Posted

Update: I sprayed the Amsoil HD Metal Protector on the spot after I wiped the FF and wax off and man is that stuff nice! It really does what it says and dries to a non-tacky wax and doesn't penetrate/loosen the existing wax. So far so good.

Posted

Fluid film and the factory wax stuff don't play well with each other. My 2015 is slowly getting the fluid film as needed or on spots where I see rust. Eventually it will be coated twice a year.

 

Wife's 2006 yukon has 130k on it and fluid film from day one. Still looks new underneath. Liquid gold!!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Make sure you lower the spare tire. I just removed mine to install an exhaust. The entire frame where the tire touches it is solid rust on my 16.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Indeed a proper drain tap or drain valve with adapter that has a hose on it that opens up the valve as the adapter goes on is a slick setup and have that for certain highway tractors etc and other equipment that came from the factory with a tap but this L8T is pretty darned good other than me doing it on the floor and easy to touch hot exhaust and am not as agile as I used to be !. If I really want to pull a hot filter on an engine I will use an insulated set of thick neoprene gauntlet gloves but I am not in the hurry I used to need to be so things are done more relaxed and in theory somewhat safer ... I think LOL.    And as I mentioned the unique shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers, while they might not work as well as an offset pour spout container for some awkward engine location applications, they are working a lot better with my Lisle funnel kit because of how they prop up on all four corners when upside down resting on the rim of the funnel where the typical quart container would never stay put without holding onto it. 
    • Well, I just hit 100K a few weeks back, and I can honestly say I have not had any major issues with my '21 5.3 Crew cab.  I have done most routine maintenance, oil changes, air filter, tire rotations, and a transmission drain and filter change (not even a full flush).  A couple of months ago, I started experiencing the dreaded CLUNK when coming to a stop, sometimes hard enough to literally push the truck forward! After researching here and in other forums/youtube videos, etc, I was thinking it's the slip yoke. I finally had a chance to take it to my local mechanic today, and he was not able to recreate the issue.  Amazing, since it does it nearly every time I drive.  He also said he can't simply grease my slip yoke/driveshaft splines, because I have a 1 piece driveshaft.  I am not sure what else I can do.  Has anyone else had this issue or have any idea what else it could be?
    • This is where the Fumoto drain valve comes in handy.  No mess and able to change oil hot, like right off the interstate hot.  Flows nice and you can direct it into a container. As for the oil filter, I use an old dixie cup or plastic one from McDonalds. It contains the oil as you pull the filter down and not all over your hand.
    • Well, if it did change from lifters to rocker arms, at least it would be easier to fix as they fail.
    • Doesn't hurt to try.  It's my understanding that you have to run it at least 4 or 5 oil changes for things to get clean.  Think about it, your engine didn't get dirty in just an oil change so over time it will slowly clean. It's the safest way to do it and not have seal issues.      I remember  a product that came out a long time ago, AutoRX, it was an additive you put in the oil and then drove for 3k miles. Some saw improvements and some didn't. It was suggested to use a non synthetic with it at the time. Same observation, use a couple oil changes and give it time to work. It also stated it worked best if you could drive on trips to keep the oil hot.  I'm sure if you ask AI it could tell you all about it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...