Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
lol.. well, I also have the onstar antenna leak too!  They have my "new and improved" antenna at the shop waiting for me.
 
You should just tell us the fix or secretly send an Amazon link to the $5 part so we don't have to worry about our cab going up in flames [emoji14] 
 
Man, GM is becoming a super awesome company.  Our Subaru had a shattered bottom windshield because of the wiper defrosters.  It was purchased used and out of warranty YET THEY STILL PAID TO FIX AND REPLACE THE WINDSHIELD.  I felt proud to have interned at GM a while back.. not so sure anymore...
New and approved antenna. Oh wait my Crystal Ball says the next post post is why is my new attenna leaking... Hmmm. It is shit.. Haha....
Anyways back on point. What is a defrost circuit... A short... What is a short... Positive and negative cause a heat on the element. Hmmm so what is the draw and is it possible that draw is to much for the wire size, fuse, or circuit. And is it possible a added resistance on contacts can increase the draw.? How can one protect the circuit or reduce the draw? Then if there is a element there where is the issue? Well it is at the highest heat source. Oh does that mean there is a problem at that point? Bingo. Resolve contact point fuse for over load and reduce draw.
Next statement is suppressed... Hope people understand. Like to be helpful but it's a catch 22.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

.. just stumbled upon this thread.. I also was unaware of this issue.

21 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Hmmm so what is the draw and is it possible that draw is to much for the wire size, fuse, or circuit. And is it possible a added resistance on contacts can increase the draw.? How can one protect the circuit or reduce the draw? Then if there is a element there where is the issue? Well it is at the highest heat source. Oh does that mean there is a problem at that point? Bingo. Resolve contact point fuse for over load and reduce draw.

.. first thank you for your insight on this issue.. I'm all for not totally spoon-feeding and encouraging self education (very active in the open source community) but some anonymous details of your solution may be helpful .. I do not have access to oem schematics or GM designed circuit values.. yes i could spend a lot of time measuring and tracing this all out.. I assume you used some variation of op amp comparator or current limiting to the oem circuit?

Posted
.. just stumbled upon this thread.. I also was unaware of this issue.
.. first thank you for your insight on this issue.. I'm all for not totally spoon-feeding and encouraging self education (very active in the open source community) but some anonymous details of your solution may be helpful .. I do not have access to oem schematics or GM designed circuit values.. yes i could spend a lot of time measuring and tracing this all out.. I assume you used some variation of op amp comparator or current limiting to the oem circuit?
I did nothing but walk in to building and talk to the guys that work on claim issues and engineering. Asked a few questions. Saw what they had laid out on the bench and asked for that part. Went home and added it to my truck. In the talks there was a few possible solutions. That I compared to off the self parts and electronics.
I still have some ideas on a better system but I have a warranty that includes the glass so dont know if I want to take on another project till I see how this works out.
Before anyone asks I have NOT heard if a solution will be offered as of yet. There is a whole process to that and it starts with admitting there is a issue the offering a resolve. I can ask and get a answer but I cant share that. My heart does go out to those that have had issues.
Who knows maybe in time something is leaked......

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

 I just had the same thing happen to my 2016 GMC Sierra. I remote started my truck and when I went out and got in it. There was smoke rolling out of from behind my seat and a few seconds later the window shattered. 

Posted

Can someone please post a solution to this problem? I don't want to replace the window if there is something to be repaired first. I don't want it to happen again. What is the cause of this?

 

Posted

So after posting to Twitter because the dealers wouldn't do anything they reached out to me and provided a 360.80 cost assistance that was generated by a "policy tool". After contacting the dealership to set this up after I was explained further that it was off the top cost not off my insurance deductible of 500 so my cost would be 541. I told them I might as well stay with my original plan of having Safelite do the repair (as they would be the ones doing the repair at the dealership anyway) and pay only 500. 

I went to my appointment on Saturday and was informed they couldn't do the work as I have a topper on my truck, They wouldn't touch my topper. After getting out of them that they see about 2 a week on average for the same issue I told them they wouldn't see me again and another place would be doing the work.

Posted
This started to happen to my Truck (2016 Sierra Denali) yesterday. 
 
https://imgur.com/a/Ip4dEKP
 
Going to dealership on Friday. 
Oh no you let the smoke out. Now there will be a explosion. It's like a terrorist bomb that's the warning......then......BOOM!!!!!!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

Once the magic smoke is out, the window explodes :sigh:

 

I have 2 years left of warranty, but im going to disconnect my rear defroster.

 

I have it turned off rear defroster in settings but it still comes on at a certain temperature. 

Posted
34 minutes ago, 2009GMC said:

I have 2 years left of warranty, but im going to disconnect my rear defroster.

 

I have it turned off rear defroster in settings but it still comes on at a certain temperature. 

.. underhood fuse box 30A fuse10

  • Thanks 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, STRMTRPR said:

.. underhood fuse box 30A fuse10

Thanks! 

 

Could also just unplug wire from window?

 

will prob do fuse if that’s all that’s on that circuit. 

Posted
On 3/11/2019 at 11:17 PM, 2009GMC said:

Thanks! 

 

Could also just unplug wire from window?

 

will prob do fuse if that’s all that’s on that circuit. 

It does look like the #10 fuse under hood is solely for the rear window, cheap insurance until a fix is identified. I almost never have frost on my rear window.

 

image.thumb.png.dca6e2d0aa3e348ca715edce092a9a44.png

Posted (edited)
5 minutes ago, NCPGMC said:

It does look like the #10 fuse under hood is solely for the rear window, cheap insurance until a fix is identified. I almost never have frost on my rear window.

 

image.thumb.png.dca6e2d0aa3e348ca715edce092a9a44.png

Same here on hardly ever really needing the rear window defroster. 

 

Thanks for the confirmation.

Edited by 2009GMC
Posted

.. there are also a couple spare empty slots at the front of the fuse block you can store your fuse in.. then it's always there ready for you to plug back in if you ever want to use your defroster again.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,717
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Tiffanyrose
    Newest Member
    Tiffanyrose
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 1 Anonymous, 954 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I tried tapping it.  This might sound like a dumb question, you should feel vibration or some type of noise when it turns on? Can someone please verify? Thank you all!
    • I feel better now for my own view point and actions or lack there of towards the dealership service theme reading your post and others. GM corporate is who offers the two free oil changes on the HD trucks and I bought my truck in Feb of 2025 and those oil change offers run out within 2 years I believe and I highly doubt I will be using either one of them. I had asked if I could officially give those free services to another customer ( a friend ) and they said no, its all a GM corporate thing based on the vehicle in question. What that service advisor did however was go into a little story about how such and such customer was denied engine warranty because he had done his own oil changes because then they are not documented ... you see where that goes and so an employee playing the game of scaring the customer into having the service work done there most certainly triggered my thought process. At a later date I did talk to the person who handles warranty claims at the dealership and she said to be sure to document the oil changes and keep receipts for the oil and filter ( coped the receipts from cases of Mobil oil and case of filters I bought from them ) and the vehicles VIN, the date of service, mileage etc and staple that together as a record I would give them if that was ever needed and I keep my own log book for services for each vehicle as well. Oh and about 8 months after I bought the truck the dealer starts calling me to offer a maintenance service since they haven't seen my vehicle show up on their system ... for the mere fee of 300.00 Canadian to change the oil and rotate the tires and a few other minor checks and I declined the offer, I get the call again a couple of months later for the same thing and she could tell I was not interested and she asked if they should take my name off the call list and I said yes, do that !.    By the way did you happen to keep your factory oil filter to open it up and see the surprises inside as I expect some will show up as per the odd little sliver of metal shaving and particles that the filter does trap along with bits of grey silicone sealer that come off of the inside edge of mating surfaces. I have cut open every filter so far on my truck although few miles but have changed the oil often and the second filter was vastly better with very little of anything, that first filter was the unsettling one as I expected it would be. 
    • I get why they do this…but man…not ideal. I only extract on inboard boat engines because the drains are buried and even then I hate it because it’s easy to leave a quart behind with that method.   They should market it as an “oil refresh” not oil change!
    • I only get oil changed where I can watch. Valvoline pulls through the dipstick into a see thru glass. When done they show me the dipstick. About the only way they can mess up is using the wrong oil. But that secret wouldn’t stay secret long. Honda uses TQ wrenches on everything. You can watch through a plate glass window. Discount tires does that with tires. Trust but verify. 
    • I would not argue that with you. It would be pointless to argue against the truth and you speak the truth.    My question and in fact the entire point of this thread is an exploration into the levers of wear which happens no matter how well we maintain our powertrains.    Some of these levers we exert a good deal of influence over which can and do result is lower wear, longer powertrain life. Some others we are sort of stuck with.    An engine is typically done when the ring to bore seal no longer is able to do the job effectively. Normally the first thing to go in a engine otherwise well maintained and adult driven is this seal.    Looking into the means, methods, products and attitudes that influence the rate of wear seems a worthwhile inquiry to me.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...