Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello,

 

Last week I purchased a new 2018 Silverado LT Z71 double cab. Initially the climate control worked fine. However, while driving home today I noticed the fan would not turn on when in auto mode despite the cab temperature being in the 80's. Manual fan works fine and will blow cold AC but as soon as I press the auto button the fan turns off even with the temperature set in the high 60's - low 70's. The dealership service is booked out for several days and won't give me a loaner car unless the truck is undrivable. I'd rather not wait for the dealership. Anyone have any ideas? Truck has 650mi. I tried searching the forums but did not see this specific problem posted. 

IMG_20180728_195035.jpg

Posted

Make sure in the settings the auto fan control is not set to low. In my 2018 the auto button just goes to the fan speed set in settings. I liked the way my 03 Yukon worked, would blow on high till temp reached then slow down to maintain temp. A step backwards from 2003.

 

 

I have a 2018 Denali so the programming may be different.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 8/7/2018 at 5:12 PM, Hudsoncc said:

Hello,

 

Last week I purchased a new 2018 Silverado LT Z71 double cab. Initially the climate control worked fine. However, while driving home today I noticed the fan would not turn on when in auto mode despite the cab temperature being in the 80's. Manual fan works fine and will blow cold AC but as soon as I press the auto button the fan turns off even with the temperature set in the high 60's - low 70's. The dealership service is booked out for several days and won't give me a loaner car unless the truck is undrivable. I'd rather not wait for the dealership. Anyone have any ideas? Truck has 650mi. I tried searching the forums but did not see this specific problem posted. 

IMG_20180728_195035.jpg

I just had this same issue today.  My truck has 1200 miles on it.  Let me know what happens with you, I am going to the dealer tomorrow, although something tells me that won't be very beneficial.

Posted
Make sure in the settings the auto fan control is not set to low. In my 2018 the auto button just goes to the fan speed set in settings. I liked the way my 03 Yukon worked, would blow on high till temp reached then slow down to maintain temp. A step backwards from 2003.
 
 
I have a 2018 Denali so the programming may be different.

This^


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/7/2018 at 6:12 PM, Hudsoncc said:

Hello,

 

Last week I purchased a new 2018 Silverado LT Z71 double cab. Initially the climate control worked fine. However, while driving home today I noticed the fan would not turn on when in auto mode despite the cab temperature being in the 80's. Manual fan works fine and will blow cold AC but as soon as I press the auto button the fan turns off even with the temperature set in the high 60's - low 70's. The dealership service is booked out for several days and won't give me a loaner car unless the truck is undrivable. I'd rather not wait for the dealership. Anyone have any ideas? Truck has 650mi. I tried searching the forums but did not see this specific problem posted. 

IMG_20180728_195035.jpg

Thank you for bringing this to our attention, Hudsoncc. Congratulations on picking up a new Silverado! We understand how important it is for you to have a positive vehicle ownership experience. If you’re considering visiting your servicing GM dealership, we would be happy to work alongside them, to determine the root cause of your Silverado’s automatic climate control. Feel free to send us a private message, if you need an additional layer of support.

 

Anthony J.

  • 11 months later...
Posted (edited)
On ‎8‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 5:12 PM, Hudsoncc said:

Hello,

 

Last week I purchased a new 2018 Silverado LT Z71 double cab. Initially the climate control worked fine. However, while driving home today I noticed the fan would not turn on when in auto mode despite the cab temperature being in the 80's. Manual fan works fine and will blow cold AC but as soon as I press the auto button the fan turns off even with the temperature set in the high 60's - low 70's. The dealership service is booked out for several days and won't give me a loaner car unless the truck is undrivable. I'd rather not wait for the dealership. Anyone have any ideas? Truck has 650mi. I tried searching the forums but did not see this specific problem posted. 

IMG_20180728_195035.jpg

Let me know what comes of this. My car is at the dealer right now for this EXACT same issue for the second time. First time they said they couldn't reproduce the issue so they threw a blower motor in it. A few weeks later it happened again. Weird thing is its totally random, and restarting the car will not fix it, but of course letting it sit will fix the problem. My car has 18K miles.

Edited by djdonte
Posted

Service advisor actually just called me right now. He said they could not get it to act up, but there was a past stored code for the left side temp sensor so they went ahead and replaced it. We will see...

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Reviving an old topic......

I have my auto fan speed set to "low" in the settings and it still functions.

 

There is a little bit of a difference between low, medium, and high, so set it to what you wish.  I have always been under the impression that a lower air velocity, blowing heat for a longer period of time, gives a more comfortable and even temperature overall.

If it isn't blowing at all then obviously something was wrong.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

I'm sorry to drag up an old post, but was there ever a resolution to this? I bought a used 18 Texas Edition about 10 days ago. 45K miles, very nice ride! a couple of days ago this exact issue popped up on mine. It is currently at the dealer and it is acting up, but they seem to be stumped. I love the truck, and have always owned Chevy trucks, and have always gotten my moneys worth. Any insight or knowledge gained would be a great help. Thanks Y'all!

Posted
41 minutes ago, budfixesit said:

I'm sorry to drag up an old post, but was there ever a resolution to this? I bought a used 18 Texas Edition about 10 days ago. 45K miles, very nice ride! a couple of days ago this exact issue popped up on mine. It is currently at the dealer and it is acting up, but they seem to be stumped. I love the truck, and have always owned Chevy trucks, and have always gotten my moneys worth. Any insight or knowledge gained would be a great help. Thanks Y'all!

Yeah, it was in the post lol. You need to do a logic lock reset. Remove the battery cables and let them sit off for longer than 5 minutes. Remove both cables. If you don't want to wait the 5 minutes you can hold both of the battery cables together for 30 seconds (with them both off the battery) and it will do the same thing as waiting longer than 5 minutes with the cables disconnected. What you are trying to accomplish is depleting the capacitors. 

Posted

Thank You carnau! I am pretty familiar with logic locks from my work. Makes me wish I had thought of this before taking it in. I am curious as to what they will find though. I am willing to let it ride because the repair will cost me nothing and i have a loaner, We will see. I will endeavor to respond to this post with the resolution. Thank you again!

Posted

Got a call from my Service Writer. He tells me that the truck has a bad expansion valve, As someone who has been in the HVAC business my entire life ( to this point anyway) i can't see how an expansion valve can cause this issue, as it has nothing to do with the fan. I'm thinking he meant an expansion module, like an add-on that turned regular climate control into dual zone with auto. Of course, no part until Monday so we will see. Updates as events unfold. Happy fourth to y'all and Happy Birthday, America!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...