Hello, does anyone have any info on which package truck I have? I know there is a Custom Sport edition but I think that is only for crew cabs it also is a different shade of white than what I have. There also is a Midnight edition for the all balck Silverados... I am just curious as to what my package is called because where I am located I havent seen a truck like mine since I have owned it the past 6 months or so. Thank you in advance!
My brakes are squealing, and have been for a while. I took my truck in and was told there is some uneven spots on the rotors but it doesnt affect function, it's just annoying. Well, I'm tired of it. I'm at 45k and its probably close enough.
So as per my lurking, I think I want to go with the police package brakes. Anyone who has these, will they affect braking in the cold/snow/wet or while towing?
I was looking at this thread below and someone linked a photo of the parts from rockauto. It shows a couple different parts for the front pads and rotors and rear pads and rotors- do I want bendix, raybestos, or acdelco when I have an option? Are the prices for the rotors per rotor (vs per pair)?
This is the first time I've done brakes. Any tips? I have a 2015 Silverado ltz z71 4wd.
By Ben S
I am looking for recommendations or advice regarding the Flowmaser 40 series single out muffler. I am wanting to remove the adaptive valve on my 2015 V8. If I cut off the valve, replace the muffler, and leave the resonator, will I still get the Flowmaster sound? I wouldn't mind a deeper sound, but I don't want it to be too loud either. Just trying to find that happy-medium. The main reason is because I am getting the "chirp" or "squeak" from the adaptive valve. My AFM Disabler helped with the chirp when switching from V4 to V8, but I still hear it when I crank my truck. Any info or advice would be appreciated.
I sell, fabricate, deliver, install and train workers how to use my packaging lines. In 2015 selected 2500HD WT 6.0 as the platform to use as my office (Truck Camper) and and tow vehicle. It provided great HD service and economical (per mile basis). On a trip to OR noted a resonance with my thumb on the steering wheel, when engine load changed going over an overpass. At first I thought it was roadway groves, but the rhythmic vibration stopped when manually dropping into a lower gear, increasing to 3000 RPM's.
Not willing to chance break down north of Mount Shasta, returned home, switch vehicles and headed north. Upon return the rebuild search began.
Deep dived into transmission repair cave and almost selected a remanufacture unit from Certified Transmission but learned shops are under no obligation to use their products and there's limit participation on the left coast. Most shops refuse to install a third party transmission citing warranty issues. Finally settled on a local shop in West Sacramento that rebuilds your transmission to the level you want.
As a bonafide cave dude wanting to understand the how transmissions work, why they fail and how to repair, called (late Friday) Pro-Built Transmission and spoke to Don the owner. I outlined in detail what the problem was, and through a series of questions from Don about the trucks' service history and how I use it, he was confident what the problem was. Arrived two hours late from my Monday 8 am appointment, Don pulled me through (no signage stating for insurance purposes you can see what we're doing to your ride gate) his shop showing various components, their failure points and although the 6L90 is a simple transmission pointed out common failure points. He showed various 6L90's requiring rebuild, some under 60K miles, and could not believe mine made it to 194K. I relayed after the first transmission filter change, started pulling 5.5 quarts out and replacing every other oil change, in other words, a poor man transmission flush. My reasoning was pay 25 dollars instead of $250 for a complete flush. Don smiled and said that explains it, noting above all else, fluid change saves transmissions. Satisfied Don wasn't a hack, dropped off the key and within an hour, after a test drive and noting data stored in in codes sent me this.
I knew it was bad and knowing a bottle of shudder stop wasn't gonna fix this, authorized repair. With high mileage, I asked about universal joint replacement, Don relayed he had a shop that could replace joint, balance the driveshaft and check the center bearing. Also since transmission was removed, and although showing no signs of leakage, had him replace the rear oil seal as well.
Don pulled the transmission and confirmed what he suspected, torque converter friction plate failure. The metal on metal grind produced fine grains that worked its way pass the bell hosing bearing and through the pump.
Damage continued through the valve body and solenoid pack (TCM).
Note the metal grit in the screen on the right.
What was unexpected was the metal grinds didn't make to the clutch packs. After 194K miles, 90% were still serviceable with some showing wear on the outer ring.
What's interesting with GM is, instead of applying full pressure to the clutch plates, they control the amount of pressure applied. The black rubber ring on the piston drum engages the plate outer section. This accounted for the most wear on the clutch plate. Don showed how the replacement piston drum engages the full surface of the plate; provides a sharper shift and lowering the wear.
Drive shaft showed the center bearing was bad and was along with universal joints replaced.
Don sent the pump face (forgive if I don't name the parts correctly) to be machined smooth (8-9 thousandths).
He switched solenoid rods from alloy to steel, and spoke about the OME cost. Chevy spends perhaps 50 cents on alloy rod where as three steel one cost him $80.00. He installed a new pump and higher valve pressure components.
Here's a picture of some parts replaced in my 6L90.
Don sent out the torque converter to another shop. They split it open and here's the condition.
Don then explained his vendor replaces the back half (part the friction ring presses against) with a thicker (1/4 inch instead of the 1/8 inch) material machined from a billet. This handles heat better and prevents the converter material from warping. They also flash braze vane tabs to prevent movement (picture of open converter is not mine)
If you get a good shop and can wait four days, one can retain the original unit and get upgraded parts. Note the remanufacturing industry is designed for a quick turnaround for transmission shops. They cite a higher level of expertise, however the reality is they created a process based on volume allowing a price point favorable to the transmission shops. Nothing wrong with that and note I wanted to retain my original transmission.
Invoice. Yes its high, but keep in mind two other shops were involved, addition work was completed and Don took time to educate me on the transmissions, AND its a tax write off.
In the final analysis and under heavy duty conditions, if you have a 6L90 strapped to a 6.0 and do fluid changes, your transmission will survive to 150K miles. If I had a better understanding of transmissions when observing the gray paste material surrounding the pan magnet at the last transmission filter change, I could minimize cost with just a torque converter change.
As for this repair, (most expensive during ownership) it cost me .0229 per mile. This and the top end rebuild posted earlier,
gives a total cost of $5944.85, (.03 cents per mile) returning my truck to service, hopefully getting another 150k miles. Test drove my truck and report shifts are crisper with the only change being when going over overpasses, and sensing the torque change, rpm will drop 25-50 rpms and return on completing the elevation change.
Next week I'll go up the Grapevine with a 4k pound truck camper and report how she does.
I currently have the little 4” screen in my truck and was wondering if anyone has tried to go get an 8” screen and HMI out of a and junkyard truck and plug it up. Would that work? I dont feel like paying $1500 for something to still be stock
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