Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
12 minutes ago, Centrebaseball said:

Interesting because 43R-00072 is what I have in my window right now as a replacement

Sorry I had them reversed, I edited the post. My new window is 43R-000072  Same as yours. Is your new window leak free so far?

Posted
37 minutes ago, Jamie73 said:

Sorry I had them reversed, I edited the post. My new window is 43R-000072  Same as yours. Is your new window leak free so far?

so far leak free - just had a raging 8 hr rain yesterday so i'm hopeful that this will be the end of discussion. I have been assured as such. But honestly, I was leak free with the other ones for 6 months so we will see if this one lasts that long too. I can't really tell much difference from the inside to see if they beefed anything up or not. 

Posted
39 minutes ago, Tomtom87 said:

Could these numbers on the window be lot numbers rather than model numbers? My window that is currently leaking has different numbers than the ones posted in this thread.

296F584B-710E-4522-B625-7DAAF1EC593C.jpeg

That is a Vitro window (different manufacture). Both of my windows were FAYUO. I don't know if anyone on this thread can explain the difference between the two manufacturer companies. I suspect they started with one, changed suppliers, and then changed part numbers again. But who knows??

I just know the most up to date part number they are telling me is FAYUO 43R-000072 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
14 minutes ago, Centrebaseball said:

That is a Vitro window (different manufacture). Both of my windows were FAYUO. I don't know if anyone on this thread can explain the difference between the two manufacturer companies. I suspect they started with one, changed suppliers, and then changed part numbers again. But who knows??

I just know the most up to date part number they are telling me is FAYUO 43R-000072 

Thank you for the clarification. Im interested to know what the possible changes/differences are as well

Posted
On 2/6/2020 at 4:45 PM, econometrics said:

I owned my 2/2019 build RST for 8 months before it started leaking. It sat through intense spring rainfall here in North TX, and went through the automatic car wash 5-7 times at least without leaking. Then, one day when it was just a slow, steady rain, I first noticed it. 

 

As I've said many times in this thread, it's not a matter of IF, but when. Just keep your eye out. You don't have to break your neck watching for it, but check from time to time. ?? 

Yeah I'll keep my eye out for sure, like others have said it's just strange they can't come up with a permanent fix. My last Silverado had the shake so bad, which is what made me trade it in after 4 years. I really hope this one doesn't have another problem that can't seem to be fixed as well.

  • Like 1
Posted
Van Bortel Chevrolet in Macedon NY.
Kitty runs a good operation. My wife brings here Subaru there and the guy that works next to me whose window hasn't leaked yet got his truck at Van Bortel in Macedon.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

Posted

I am trading in my travel trailer for a new bigger one in two weeks. So I will be hooking up a 5,000 lb trailer and jackknifing it up my steep driveway in reverse probably multiple times to get the right angle. This should put an incredible amount of flex and twist in the frame and cab of my truck. I will then head straight to the carwash to see if my brand new window suddenly starts leaking

 

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Crazy question...has anyone else considered changing the rear window to solid glass?  I have the thought in my head because 1) It seems inevitable that it WILL leak and I don't want the dealership's hands on my headliner, spoiler, trim, etc. and 2) I never wanted the option but convenience group II had other stuff I wanted.  

  • Like 1
Posted
Crazy question...has anyone else considered changing the rear window to solid glass?  I have the thought in my head because 1) It seems inevitable that it WILL leak and I don't want the dealership's hands on my headliner, spoiler, trim, etc. and 2) I never wanted the option but convenience group II had other stuff I wanted.  

No. That would be dumb. Just buy a can of as seen on TV flex seal and sleep like a baby.469464b210b1ae28d7f0e354d4155037.jpg

 

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

  • Haha 2
Posted

Costco gives you a free case of flex seal if you buy a Silverado with their autobuy program. Just a heads up.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  • Haha 2
Posted

I also said I was going to check out of this thread a while back but it's like a train wreck happening infront of you, you know you should look away but you just can't help but watch....

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
  • Confused 1
Posted (edited)

Haven’t been following along too close here lately, other than seeing more and more guys joining the leak club unfortunately. Just thought that I would do an update on my truck and window. The truck is still bone dry. I guess it’s been around 4-5 months since they replaced the entire window. It rains a ton where I live and I’ve pressure washed it several times, even had a little snow. No drips, no leaks, so far so good. My window part number is FAYUO 43R-000072.

Edited by WWIII
  • Like 1
Posted

This is from a Facebook post, just curious if there’s any relation

 

“Related: today I took my 19 LTZ for the brake, etc recalls. Shootin the $hit with the service writer and he asks how is everything. I say great other than the leak they fixed. He said they are seeing lots “with the antenna leak”. Huh? He said only a few with the window but more with the antenna. News to me.”

 

So if they know about a problem with the shark fin leaking , all these window replacement might be in vain, couldnt the water run down a channel or along a rail, and drip out down back window or back of headliner

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Posted
37 minutes ago, disneybaker said:

This is from a Facebook post, just curious if there’s any relation

 

“Related: today I took my 19 LTZ for the brake, etc recalls. Shootin the $hit with the service writer and he asks how is everything. I say great other than the leak they fixed. He said they are seeing lots “with the antenna leak”. Huh? He said only a few with the window but more with the antenna. News to me.”

 

So if they know about a problem with the shark fin leaking , all these window replacement might be in vain, couldnt the water run down a channel or along a rail, and drip out down back window or back of headliner

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

The shark fin was a big source of leaks on the previous generation trucks, but when it did leak, it would be wet exactly where you’d expect it. Front half of the headliner, up to and near the A-pillar. 


Hard to dispute on the T1s that the window (and cab spoiler to a lesser extent) is causing the leak. Especially when the cracks in the window frame are plainly visible and the leak goes away when you caulk them.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...