Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Motofab kit (2.5 front+2 back) 5100 fronts(lowest setting) and back, rough country forged upper a arms, 285/70/17 on factory 17. Rides way better than anticipated with just a slight rub on the upper arm on full lock. Now just need a side steps cause my wife and kids have to "climb" in. ..whiners lol.

Posted

I had the 3.5" RC and 35's on my 14 Sierra and never had a problem with it, rode a little rougher than a stock truck would but it was a lifted truck with 35's so I expected it. Right now I have got a 2.5" level and 33's on my 18 Silverado and I am kicking myself for not going ahead and just doing the lift and 35's again. To me it has the same ride quality and looks a whole lot better with 35's. I drive a whole lot for work, mostly highways but the truck for sure spent some time on dirt roads and going in and out of the duck and deer blinds and the RC performed adequately for me...I plan on going that route or the Fabtech 4" budget kit and 35's whenever I need tires.

Posted
On 04/12/2018 at 8:29 AM, khaledsamy36 said:

 


There are better alternatives ( again from point of view ) as I’m also using my car mainly on road and slightly off-road - see the pics and I will tell you about the alternative ( also since you bring up the tire size ) you are planning for new wheels , right 953b1fb5bcab008c0a6884e46195c319.jpgbec3732b2477b99b2bd8c89f8d1a7ddd.jpg


 

 

Your truck looks lovely, 

What type of lift you got on your truck? 

 

 

Posted
On 04/12/2018 at 8:52 PM, artacus said:

Motofab kit (2.5 front+2 back) 5100 fronts(lowest setting) and back, rough country forged upper a arms, 285/70/17 on factory 17. Rides way better than anticipated with just a slight rub on the upper arm on full lock. Now just need a side steps cause my wife and kids have to "climb" in. ..whiners lol.

Thanks for the info, sounds about what I had in mind. please share a picture with us once possible, would love to see the result of this setup! safe travels! 

 

On 06/12/2018 at 8:39 AM, TyGriff13 said:

I had the 3.5" RC and 35's on my 14 Sierra and never had a problem with it, rode a little rougher than a stock truck would but it was a lifted truck with 35's so I expected it. Right now I have got a 2.5" level and 33's on my 18 Silverado and I am kicking myself for not going ahead and just doing the lift and 35's again. To me it has the same ride quality and looks a whole lot better with 35's. I drive a whole lot for work, mostly highways but the truck for sure spent some time on dirt roads and going in and out of the duck and deer blinds and the RC performed adequately for me...I plan on going that route or the Fabtech 4" budget kit and 35's whenever I need tires.

Thanks for the feedback TyGriff13, I am going to avoid 3.5 RC for now, what I learned from the guys around here; they are good for looks and city but I will still need much more stronger shocks if considering off-roading. I do off-road about once twice every month.  

 

On 04/12/2018 at 6:29 PM, khaledsamy36 said:



There are better alternatives ( again from point of view ) as I’m also using my car mainly on road and slightly off-road - see the pics and I will tell you about the alternative ( also since you bring up the tire size ) you are planning for new wheels , right bec3732b2477b99b2bd8c89f8d1a7ddd.jpg
 

 

Wow looks like a real beast brother, I like your setup! how big is your tiers? I love the overall look man, looks beefy. 

I am now thinking about going for Fox 2.0 as they come with 2 inch lift. really strong shocks compared to Bilstein 5100 (200 PSI) Fox rated at (300 PSI), which is 50% more stopping power. price is double too but the setup is around my budget. 

 

Saw the Bilstein 5100 being sold for quite good price, called the garage owner, such a good man, had a little talk, explained to him what I had in mind. The fella told me he owns 4 GM Trucks, 3 of them running 5100 Bilstein shocks (front and back), those 3  trucks he mainly use for city. the other 1 truck it has 2.0 Fox

(Front and Back) apparently if you do off-road specially high speed (I live in Dubai so we got allot of sand dunes) and do little of Dune bashing, the stopping power of shocks are really necessary (so the front end of the truck wont hit the sand during off-roading) he did recommend the Fox 2.0 over the Bilstein for off-road use. He did recommend the Bilstein 5100s if the truck mainly used as city truck. Another info he did give me that FOX 2.0 ride better than 5100's as they do preform better on heavy loads (being installed on trucks). 

 

FOX1.thumb.PNG.0108e6715999e996a7b155fe52c0db57.PNG

 

FOX2.thumb.PNG.6802d34639785bb5d68c2021b2cd3b9a.PNG

 

A member of GM-Trucks.com have installed them on his truck, 285s. 

 

post-151833-0-40719200-1450635142.jpeg.a436d5887c21fbe548f2195e6776d63d.jpeg

 

Thinking to go on 285s not sure if I need any bigger.. or if 2'' lift will accommodate bigger tires to begin with. 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
 
Wow looks like a real beast brother, I like your setup! how big is your tiers? I love the overall look man, looks beefy. 
I am now thinking about going for Fox 2.0 as they come with 2 inch lift. really strong shocks compared to Bilstein 5100 (200 PSI) Fox rated at (300 PSI), which is 50% more stopping power. price is double too but the setup is around my budget. 
 
Saw the Bilstein 5100 being sold for quite good price, called the garage owner, such a good man, had a little talk, explained to him what I had in mind. The fella told me he owns 4 GM Trucks, 3 of them running 5100 Bilstein shocks (front and back), those 3  trucks he mainly use for city. the other 1 truck it has 2.0 Fox
(Front and Back) apparently if you do off-road specially high speed (I live in Dubai so we got allot of sand dunes) and do little of Dune bashing, the stopping power of shocks are really necessary (so the front end of the truck wont hit the sand during off-roading) he did recommend the Fox 2.0 over the Bilstein for off-road use. He did recommend the Bilstein 5100s if the truck mainly used as city truck. Another info he did give me that FOX 2.0 ride better than 5100's as they do preform better on heavy loads (being installed on trucks). 
 
FOX1.thumb.PNG.0108e6715999e996a7b155fe52c0db57.PNG
 
FOX2.thumb.PNG.6802d34639785bb5d68c2021b2cd3b9a.PNG
 
A member of GM-Trucks.com have installed them on his truck, 285s. 
 
post-151833-0-40719200-1450635142.jpeg.a436d5887c21fbe548f2195e6776d63d.jpeg
 
Thinking to go on 285s not sure if I need any bigger.. or if 2'' lift will accommodate bigger tires to begin with. 
 
 


Tires are 315/70/17 bfg on 4” lift and there is slight rubbing .
For the 2 inch you want to get , it is a leveling kit as your rear already higher than the front by almost 2 “ , if you are going with this setup don’t increase the size of the tires 285 is your correct size . I saw the same setup on other cars and they have 17 inch wheels and 285 tires on a 2 inch kit .
And yes fox is way better than other shock .

Good luck .



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I have a 2016 High country with 305/55/20, 3.5 rough country lift kit (which makes the ride way stiifer but what can I say, I wish I had more knowledge at that time) I am considering Icon suspension to be more specific stage 5 is what I am looking for... They have loads of great reviews online, maybe you should consider that too OP

2007-2016-gm-silverado-sierra-1500-1-3-suspension-system-stage-5-small-taper.jpg

Posted (edited)

I can tell you that I love my 6.5" zone lift with upgraded Fox shocks in the rear.  Wouldn't change anything about it.

truck.JPG

Edited by rivertrail
  • Like 1
Posted
I can tell you that I love my 6.5" zone lift with upgraded Fox shocks in the rear.  Wouldn't change anything about it.
truck.JPG.da30091ecc3a6f6db937cc060c59dded.JPG
That truck looks so damn good with the lift and OEM wheels!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • 2 years later...
Posted (edited)

I have just had the Rough Country 3.5" lift with new UCA's and keeped the stock struts  on my 2019 double cab 4X4 with the Z71 package. I have the stock 18" wheels and Goodyear Fortitude tires until my new wheels and tires from Tire Rack show up in January. I will post my build after install. I did a before and after measurement and there is just over 3" of lift to the front and 2.5" in the back with about a 1/2" rake left. I was actually expecting a harsher ride but was pleasantly surprised by the way more composed ride. The N3 shocks are excellent giving a nice balance of off road capability and pavement performance wwaaaayyy better than the stock ruff country shocks my truck came with. The stock struts are ok until things get ruff and you can tell the N3's are out performing them. I will be upgrading the front when I can no longer take the miss match in off road performance. I think a lot of the ruff ride comments from this lift are because of 20" and 22" wheels but that is just MHO.     All before and after pics are on stock 265/65/18's 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2019 RST double z71 steps before 3.5_ (5).jpg

2019 RST double z71 front before 3.5 lift (2).jpg

2019 RST double z71 front after 3.5_ (3).jpg

2018 RST double z71 steps after 3.5 (4).jpg

2019 RST double z71 steps before 3.5_ (3).jpg

2018 RST double z71 steps after 3.5 (2).jpg

Edited by chuckles5150
Add pictures

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...