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Anyone start tearing down a 2019 to install sound system?

WhineyTTwins
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96TL Enthusiast

96TL

Posted
Posted
25 minutes ago, Zelas said:

I used the JL Audio Fix 82 to fix the factory radio sound. It has signal sensing and turns on the amps. There is a a fuse box on passanger side dash that you can to get ign wire to rurn on amps. 

 

In My Custom WT model had plenty of room to put the amps on the rear wall. I removed some of the foam and went in with no problems. I put all of my equipment there.

 

Hey thanks for the info. 

 

My JL HD 1200 has high-level inputs. I used a LC2i in my last Sierra, but I’m thinking of skipping it this time to keep it simpler. You mentioned you had to correct the factory sound. So should I stick with the LC2i? Thanks again. 

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Chris walker
Chris walker

I fiber glassed my own enclosure for the AT4. I learned a lot of useful information if anyone else decides to glass a box in the new series of trucks. I've included a list of materials, goals, lessons

Chris walker
Chris walker

Ron,   You are correct. The Bose amp is behind the rear seat and that is where you will connect for the AT4 and the Denali. The non Bose system connection is at the firewall (you will not us

MadCaddie
MadCaddie

The Bose system does not sound good in the 2019s.  For the average listner they will be fine I guess but definitely not what I'd call good.  Not that any bose system is great persay but it's disappoin

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Zelas Enthusiast

Zelas

Posted
Posted

I would use the LC2i. If you dont you will loose you sub woofer level as soon as you turn up the volume. If your radio has the bose sysyem. If it non bose.  just use Hi level in.

ApertureX Enthusiast

ApertureX

Posted
Posted
51 minutes ago, 96TL said:

Also, it sounds like it’s not possible to mount an amp on the rear cab wall anymore? Is under the front seats the only option now? Thanks. 

I believe that the issue about not being able to mount the amps to the rear wall is mostly in the double/crew cab models. The regular cab models have folding seats and less 'stuff' mounted to the rear wall. The new rear double/crew seats are actually two separate pieces for the seat bottom and the seat back, making it a little more complicated to remove and your seat back can't fold down without severe modification anymore. If you remove the factory jute (foam sound deadener) from the rear wall you can get an amp near the bottom of the rear seat back on the driver side and, if you are replacing the whole Bose amplifier as well, you can mount an amp in place of the stock Bose amplifier.

 

Hear is a picture from this thread (page 7) by HTX '19 Black Widow of the rear wall:

 

IMG_5162.jpg.1fb6bb57fb8b2066bed40d17f2da2034.jpg

ApertureX Enthusiast

ApertureX

Posted
Posted

Has anyone located the factory common grounding stud in the rear cab of the crew cab (or one close to the rear wall)?

 

I want to put in as few holes as possible in the sheet metal and minimize the electrical resistance of using just any piece of sheet metal. I'd prefer using a factory grounding stud for the large gauge wires I'll be using for a system that will pull slightly over 350A at 13.8V. Otherwise, I have to run two more large gauge cables through the firewall and ground directly at the common point for the alternator and/or battery grounds. This is not preferred because I'm trying to minimize as much payload reduction as possible.

 

 

96TL Enthusiast

96TL

Posted
Posted

I took a quick look under the hood today to find a place to get the power wire through. It looks harder than the previous generation. Where are you guys getting the wire through? Any empty grommets in the firewall that I’m not seeing? Thanks. 

96TL Enthusiast

96TL

Posted
Posted

Nevermind. GM gave us two perfect blank grommets, one on each side of the truck on the firewall. 

white94rx Enthusiast

white94rx

Posted
Posted

I've got a single 10" Subthump box that I never used if anyone wants to buy it. My trucks rear window leaked and I got Chevy to buy it back. Upgraded to a 2500, which is previous body style, so this box isn't the right fit. Black carpet, single 10". Never even took it out of the box. For a T1 crew cab.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

96TL Enthusiast

96TL

Posted
Posted

Anyone know the size of the torx bolts holding down the front seats? T50?

Darrenbie Enthusiast

Darrenbie

Posted
Posted

I did a simple install of a amp and 2 10"s. Used the groundshaker dual 10 downfire box and went with rockford for the amp and subs. Not touching the speakers yet. It sounds pretty good to me as it is now. Defenetly needed the extra thump.

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96TL Enthusiast

96TL

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 7/16/2019 at 6:53 AM, 96TL said:

Anyone know the size of the torx bolts holding down the front seats? T50?

 

To quote myself, the torx bolts are T50. 

 

What are you guys doing with the tire jack? Doesn’t fit with my Sub Thump box. 

Edited by 96TL
ApertureX Enthusiast

ApertureX

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, 96TL said:

 

To quote myself, the torx bolts are T50. 

 

What are you guys doing with the tire jack? Doesn’t fit with my Sub Thump box. 

Traditionally, get a AAA membership so that they bring the jack to you.

 

As far as anyone else, a locked toolbox in the bed of the truck is a viable option. Of course, this is a better option with a rolling bed cover that locks.

96TL Enthusiast

96TL

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, ApertureX said:

Traditionally, get a AAA membership so that they bring the jack to you.

 

As far as anyone else, a locked toolbox in the bed of the truck is a viable option. Of course, this is a better option with a rolling bed cover that locks.

 

I have roadside assistance through Geico, but still...

 

I managed to fit the lug nut wrench pouch behind the sub box, and I put the jack in a small Rotcho mechanics bag and stuck it in the center armrest. Works for me. 

 

System is rockin’.

 

Thanks all. 

Darrenbie Enthusiast

Darrenbie

Posted
Posted
22 hours ago, 96TL said:

 

To quote myself, the torx bolts are T50. 

 

What are you guys doing with the tire jack? Doesn’t fit with my Sub Thump box. 

I installed a swing case  on the bed of the truck. They go for about 200 bucks. I have the jack, lug nut wrench, small tool box, straps, rachet wrenches, zip ties and pliers in there. Awesome little box.

  • 4 weeks later...
Blk99cobra Enthusiast

Blk99cobra

Posted
Posted

I got a question for you guys i had a audio control 6 channel with dsp intalled and all my speakers upgraded with audison speakers the shop piggybacked off of my bose my amp to retain all of my factory functions my problem is when i took my truck to the dealer today to have the blue screen fixed when i put my truck in reverse and reprogram the torque module the truck wouldnt take any updates they tried twice and said it froze up both times but worked fine on another vehicle then they started saying the amp i had installed wasnt letting the truck accept the software updates and that warranty wouldnt cover it and told me to put it all back to stock then come back does this sound accurate or is the dealership overunning with ass clowns?

Zelas Enthusiast

Zelas

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, Blk99cobra said:

I got a question for you guys i had a audio control 6 channel with dsp intalled and all my speakers upgraded with audison speakers the shop piggybacked off of my bose my amp to retain all of my factory functions my problem is when i took my truck to the dealer today to have the blue screen fixed when i put my truck in reverse and reprogram the torque module the truck wouldnt take any updates they tried twice and said it froze up both times but worked fine on another vehicle then they started saying the amp i had installed wasnt letting the truck accept the software updates and that warranty wouldnt cover it and told me to put it all back to stock then come back does this sound accurate or is the dealership overunning with ass clowns?

Man thats a tough one. Did thye use some sort of module to get the the signal to the amps ? Something like a PAC module or did they just tap into the bose amp wires?

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