Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
2 hours ago, ArcherMP said:

I had a single P20f (8") in the center console of my 2018 and it was amazing. No doubt in my mind you will be happy with your choices. Are you running all new speaker wire?

Yes I ran 16g Stinger wire. I have it through the door boots already but just have the front highs coiled underneath the carpet until I install the speakers. 

Posted
3 hours ago, LA_33 said:

Focal flax 6.5 components in the front

Focal flax 6.5 coaxials in the rear

Two Focal P30f subwoofers- this is their flax 12"

I had the Focal flax installed as well. Sound great. Along with a 10"Image Dynamics IDQ in a down firing box I built 

Posted

I just got off of the phone with Nav TV and they told me they should have  fix by next week.  Of course we shall see if this holds true.  I am waiting on a working oem interface option for my 2020 2500hd with bose.  Nav TV seemed the way to go, but i am not sure.  I have PAC Ampro 4 on my 2016 2500hd and it worked well with a Rockford Fosgate DSR1.  Just like many of you, I have all my equipment minus the interface.  All i can do it watch the clock tick!!!

 

Joseph

Posted
On 3/11/2020 at 12:52 PM, ArcherMP said:

Yeah, that's exactly how I feel about it too. Do you have any pictures of your setup? 

The blank spot to the right of the amps is where I relocated the rear seat heaters. The Bose amp is gone since I will be using the NAV-TV and everything else stayed in the original location. 

F5C85AC4-7CB3-4315-96BF-514403959547.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted
On 3/11/2020 at 12:52 PM, ArcherMP said:

Yeah, that's exactly how I feel about it too. Do you have any pictures of your setup? 

I am close to finishing the enclosure.  Should finish it this weekend.

enclosure.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 3/9/2020 at 1:03 AM, JH1973 said:

If you take that to a dealer to have the problem fixed be sure to pull all of your audio gear and cover up those wire splices as good as you can because you have voided the electrical warranty and possibly the entire vehicle warranty by splicing into the wiring.

Well, I lucked out.  I purchased an OBDII reader and reset the codes. I've now driven it about a dozen times, and the codes did not reappear.  Since then, I've hooked the amp back up without any issue.  I do appreciate the recommendation though.

Posted

Not to thread jack this. Here is my current issue.

 

I have a 2019 LTZ with bose. Back in november i had a local car audio place install a JL stealthbox. I was at the time using my old Focal 1.800 amp.  In the middle of january, i had an update on my factory head unit. It installed the update while i was at work. When i went to get in the truck after work, system turned on but no base from the subs. Come to find out, my focal amp had died. Fast forward 7 weeks and i have a new JL 750 HD amp installed. They are having one hell of a time getting it to sync up. If the volume gets turned up too far, it starts clipping the system, and then shuts off to protect the speakers. This is really annoying. I know have over 2500 spent and can not listen to my music very loud. Any ideas from you all on why this would be happening? Is it a bad amp? is the update to the factory unit creating all the problems?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 3/16/2020 at 3:41 PM, GarretAK said:

Not to thread jack this. Here is my current issue.

 

I have a 2019 LTZ with bose. Back in november i had a local car audio place install a JL stealthbox. I was at the time using my old Focal 1.800 amp.  In the middle of january, i had an update on my factory head unit. It installed the update while i was at work. When i went to get in the truck after work, system turned on but no base from the subs. Come to find out, my focal amp had died. Fast forward 7 weeks and i have a new JL 750 HD amp installed. They are having one hell of a time getting it to sync up. If the volume gets turned up too far, it starts clipping the system, and then shuts off to protect the speakers. This is really annoying. I know have over 2500 spent and can not listen to my music very loud. Any ideas from you all on why this would be happening? Is it a bad amp? is the update to the factory unit creating all the problems?

Fuse blown? Check the ground?

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2019/07/24/how-to-diagnose-electrical-ground-issues/

Posted

I do not have any blown fuses. I will look to see where the amp is grounded when i get home from work. If it is the ground wire, would the subs work to a certain point and then stop?

Posted

Personally I'd suspect either the install shop or the update to the head unit.

 

For the install shop, the original amp died while it was in their possession, and now the new amp is clipping when the volume is supposedly too high. That to me sounds like they have the gains set too high and the amp is shutting down to protect itself. When my shop did my last system, they asked me which source I listened to most (CD, USB, radio, or satellite radio) and set the level for that input (what I've noticed is that satellite radio has a stronger input signal than the other inputs, so I can't turn that one up as much as the others). Either way, it shouldn't be that hard to set the gains for that amp (unless those JL amps have oddities that require a different setup than standard amps). The only other explanation would be you're turning the head unit up higher than the shop recommends.

 

The other cause could be the update for the head unit, and I only say that because that occured at the same time this started. I've never had a head unit that required updates (my last aftermarket head unit was about 10 years ago) so I don't have much experience with that.

 

Just my $.02

Posted

Thank you for your feedback.

 

It is not an aftermarket head unit. It is the stock infotainment system. I was originally at v805 and it updated to v807, thats when my focal amp bit the dust. I'm thinking it has to be from the update. Don't really want to spend the money for the nav.tv unit, but if its a must then its a must.

Posted
1 hour ago, GarretAK said:

Thank you for your feedback.

 

It is not an aftermarket head unit. It is the stock infotainment system. I was originally at v805 and it updated to v807, thats when my focal amp bit the dust. I'm thinking it has to be from the update. Don't really want to spend the money for the nav.tv unit, but if its a must then its a must.

I would suggest marking where the gain is set on the amp, and then lowering it a bit at a time and see it that solves the problem. Unless you got a bad amplifier, clipping generally means that a gain is set too high. That's also a reason I was suspecting the install shop. Setting gains is not difficult, and there shouldn't be any reason they're struggling to get them set right. When I used to do my own systems in my younger years, I used to set them by ear and never had an issue with clipping. And it's not like that amp is overdriving your subs either. So to me that seems suspect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...