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Posted
On 2/14/2020 at 2:38 PM, ArcherMP said:

Negative.

It looks like there may be a software update that was just released for Nav TV -- 

 

ZEN AVB-GM
NTV-KIT955
**********************************************************************************************************************

SW:

02-21-20     
ZEN-AVBGM-1.2-2-21-20.enc    * Spike after phone hang-up
                * Balance/Fade curve
                * Volume curve
                * stream re-init during aborted sleep
                * ethernet wake up during aborted sleep
                * resolved race condition during sleep entry

Posted
11 hours ago, RedQuartz2019 said:

It looks like there may be a software update that was just released for Nav TV -- 

 

ZEN AVB-GM
NTV-KIT955
**********************************************************************************************************************

SW:

02-21-20     
ZEN-AVBGM-1.2-2-21-20.enc    * Spike after phone hang-up
                * Balance/Fade curve
                * Volume curve
                * stream re-init during aborted sleep
                * ethernet wake up during aborted sleep
                * resolved race condition during sleep entry

Thank you for sharing! I was getting tired of checking everyday. I don't usually like to flash new software so soon after release, but this is driving me crazy. 

Posted
2 hours ago, dm1975 said:

Can anyone tell me the differences in the NavTv Zen audio and PAC Audio Amp pro?

Both the AmpPro and NavTV Zen units act as virtual replacements of the stock Bose amplifier. Neither of the units use the "post amp" Bose signal but rather they use the actual CanBus(MOST serial data) signals that come from the stock source unit. The modules convert the data signals into analog full range line level RCA signals usable for most aftermarket amplifiers.

 

I was curious about that myself so I did some research and looked at some random late model Sierra diagrams in my database.I checked the connectors that the AmpPro uses at the stock source unit.It uses 2 of the connectors at the SU,both of which contain the MOST serial data and the other important low speed GMLAN data signals.The question is which module has higher quality inner components and reliability between the AmpPro and Zen units?

Posted
On 2/22/2020 at 11:29 PM, RedQuartz2019 said:

It looks like there may be a software update that was just released for Nav TV -- 

 

ZEN AVB-GM
NTV-KIT955
**********************************************************************************************************************

SW:

02-21-20     
ZEN-AVBGM-1.2-2-21-20.enc    * Spike after phone hang-up
                * Balance/Fade curve
                * Volume curve
                * stream re-init during aborted sleep
                * ethernet wake up during aborted sleep
                * resolved race condition during sleep entry

Unfortunately the NAV-TV still cuts out randomly over analog/RCA. I changed the connection to the optical/toslink and the NAV-TV has been rock solid. I guess I should have done it earlier.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 2/25/2020 at 11:55 PM, ArcherMP said:

Unfortunately the NAV-TV still cuts out randomly over analog/RCA. I changed the connection to the optical/toslink and the NAV-TV has been rock solid. I guess I should have done it earlier.

I am in the process of installing the NAV-TV unit in my 2020 Sierra.  I am using Audio Control amps with the built in DSP, and there is only analong/RCA on the amps.  I know the NAV-TV unit says the remote wire has to be connected to amp, which I did, but would the GTO signal sense on these amps possibly stop the NAV-TV from cutting out?  That is....if there is a voltage problem with the unit.

Posted
7 minutes ago, LA_33 said:

I am in the process of installing the NAV-TV unit in my 2020 Sierra.  I am using Audio Control amps with the built in DSP, and there is only analong/RCA on the amps.  I know the NAV-TV unit says the remote wire has to be connected to amp, which I did, but would the GTO signal sense on these amps possibly stop the NAV-TV from cutting out?  That is....if there is a voltage problem with the unit.

Granted my JL VXI might perform these functions differently (Remote, DC Offset, & Signal Sensing), but I have tried all of the different functions together and independently, all have the same result. (https://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/jlaudio/ewsd4a15yh/VX1000_5i_MAN.pdf?u=ndijqi)

 

You might get a kick out of this, but what I did was add a remote on/off switch inline to the amplifier (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WRFYH7L/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_YBQyEbYX9DMTD). When I cycle power everything works like it should, and I can do it going down the road.

Posted
1 hour ago, ArcherMP said:

Granted my JL VXI might perform these functions differently (Remote, DC Offset, & Signal Sensing), but I have tried all of the different functions together and independently, all have the same result. (https://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/jlaudio/ewsd4a15yh/VX1000_5i_MAN.pdf?u=ndijqi)

 

You might get a kick out of this, but what I did was add a remote on/off switch inline to the amplifier (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WRFYH7L/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_YBQyEbYX9DMTD). When I cycle power everything works like it should, and I can do it going down the road.

Not a bad idea! I’m hoping NAV-TV will fix this soon.

 

I don’t see a PAC audio amp pro for these trucks on their website yet. Would this be a better choice if offered?

Posted
1 hour ago, LA_33 said:

Not a bad idea! I’m hoping NAV-TV will fix this soon.

 

I don’t see a PAC audio amp pro for these trucks on their website yet. Would this be a better choice if offered?

I talked with Nav TV yesterday about something else and asked about the update as well. He said they were working on it and he thought it wouldn't take much time to find a solution.

My installer talked with PAC Audio a few weeks back and they said it would be sometime later this year to next year. My installer mentioned that the PAC Audio models are generally about half the price as Nav TV's model.

Posted
On 2/25/2020 at 11:55 PM, ArcherMP said:

Unfortunately the NAV-TV still cuts out randomly over analog/RCA. I changed the connection to the optical/toslink and the NAV-TV has been rock solid. I guess I should have done it earlier.

Do your amps have an optical input or are you using something to convert the signals from optical to analog? If so what are you using for conversion?

Posted (edited)
36 minutes ago, JMO76 said:

Do your amps have an optical input or are you using something to convert the signals from optical to analog? If so what are you using for conversion?

 

36 minutes ago, JMO76 said:

Do your amps have an optical input or are you using something to convert the signals from optical to analog? If so what are you using for conversion?

Yes it has an optical input and output: https://www.jlaudio.com/products/vx1000-5i-car-audio-vxi-amplifiers-98632

 

VX1000-5i-FLT.jpg

 

You could also check out a LLJC harness T-Harness (https://lljcustoms.com/store?olsPage=t%2Fgm-vehicles) wired to a Fix 82/86 or another OEM Integration DSP to eliminate the need for the NAV-TV.

Edited by ArcherMP
Posted
22 hours ago, ArcherMP said:

 

Yes it has an optical input and output: https://www.jlaudio.com/products/vx1000-5i-car-audio-vxi-amplifiers-98632

 

VX1000-5i-FLT.jpg

 

You could also check out a LLJC harness T-Harness (https://lljcustoms.com/store?olsPage=t%2Fgm-vehicles) wired to a Fix 82/86 or another OEM Integration DSP to eliminate the need for the NAV-TV.

I originally was going this route, but my installer said something that made a lot of sense. Rather than leaving the amp in and then trying to change the signal into something usable after the fact, it would be better to grab the signal before the Bose equipment has a chance to change it. Plus I looked at the costs between the Fix86/LLJ loopback harness & a Nav TV unit+speaker harness, and Nav TV is the cheaper option.

 

Before factory audio systems introduced a canbus output from the radio, nobody ever would've left a factory amp in and tried to adjust the signal after the fact. They would've either replaced the head-unit with an aftermarket model or used an LOC and maybe a line driver to feed their amps. But now that so much of the vehicle's non radio functions are run through the radio/display, I think people are more hesitant to replace it.

Posted
29 minutes ago, JMO76 said:

I originally was going this route, but my installer said something that made a lot of sense. Rather than leaving the amp in and then trying to change the signal into something usable after the fact, it would be better to grab the signal before the Bose equipment has a chance to change it. Plus I looked at the costs between the Fix86/LLJ loopback harness & a Nav TV unit+speaker harness, and Nav TV is the cheaper option.

 

Before factory audio systems introduced a canbus output from the radio, nobody ever would've left a factory amp in and tried to adjust the signal after the fact. They would've either replaced the head-unit with an aftermarket model or used an LOC and maybe a line driver to feed their amps. But now that so much of the vehicle's non radio functions are run through the radio/display, I think people are more hesitant to replace it.

Not only are people hesitant but even Crutchfield recommends not replacing the factory head unit in many vehicles now.Aftermarket HU's are going to be a thing of the past soon unless these companies like Pioneer,Kenwood,etc start figuring out how to integrate into factory systems.Problem is that the technology is so complex and therefore too expensive to make it available to the average consumer.

Posted
2 hours ago, JH1973 said:

Not only are people hesitant but even Crutchfield recommends not replacing the factory head unit in many vehicles now.Aftermarket HU's are going to be a thing of the past soon unless these companies like Pioneer,Kenwood,etc start figuring out how to integrate into factory systems.Problem is that the technology is so complex and therefore too expensive to make it available to the average consumer.

Add to that the fact that the radios seem to change with each model year. Not much, but enough that a previous model probably won't work on a new model year.

 

Something I'm also wondering about is how the aftermath audio landscape, particularly systems with large amplifiers and subwoofers, is going to look when electric vehicles become more prevalent. Now instead of simply flickering your lights or running your battery down, it will decrease your vehicles range as well.

Posted (edited)

Here's a question for you guys. I swapped out the Bose speakers (will add Nav TV, amp, & sub soon). I used Hertz Audio Dieci 6x9s & 6.5s in the doors, and opted for just tweeters in the dash. This was the setup I used on my '16 Silverado, and that sounded pretty good.

 

This OTOH sounds like crap. On my old truck it sounded fine powered by just the factory non Bose radio (much better after I added an amp with crossover. But on this system with the Bose amp still in place it got worse with new speakers.

 

I think the Bose amp routes most of the mid to upper range to the dash speakers. To get any decent volume out if it, I had to turn down the bass on the radio down to about -7 so I don't blow out the speakers. Even then, it's about half as loud as before.

 

I'm thinking about putting more of a full range speaker in the dash to get some volume back. But I tried the Memphis Audio 2.75" speakers in my old truck and they didn't sound good on the radio or the amp. Crutchfield has Kenwood 2.75" speakers but they look about the same as the Bose units I took out. So I looked at slightly smaller speakers from higher end manufacturers and the two I'm looking at are the Audiofrog GS25 and the Motel CCWR254. From what I've read the GS25s will play louder and are built stronger, but both are better options than the Memphis or Kenwood's despite being smaller.

 

So I have 2 questions. First, anyone who has experience with these speakers, are they worth the higher price? By that I mean can they play clean and loud without crapping out? Second, for anyone who's used the GS25s, the owner's manual shows they have several mounting tabs on them (pic below), one of which is stamped GM that looks like the same mounting tabs from the factory Bose speakers (one square and one tapered, the ones at about the 1 & 6 o'clock positions in the pic). Do the mounting holes on the GM tabs align with the factory mounting holes? The cones on the GS25s are smaller (2.5" vs 2.75") so it's not very clear. I also don't know if GM has 2.5" factory speakers on other vehicles or not. Any help is appreciated.

Screenshot_20200308-001543~01.png

Edited by JMO76

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