Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
3 hours ago, swathdiver said:

Yeah, don't buy one.  Get a scan tool with bi-directional communications that was made for your truck.  GMs MDI2 with GDS software and a laptop will allow you to see all the codes and runs graphs and diagnostics and tests and resets, etc. on your truck.

 

Thanks.  I will check it out.

Posted
1 hour ago, 14GMCZ71 said:

 

Thanks.  I will check it out.

Get your checkbook out...$$$$

  • Like 1
Posted
5 minutes ago, Lsgun1 said:

Anyone bought from that vendor before? China car diag....?

I have not but guys from the TahoeYukon forum have bought Tech-2s from them.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Update from my last post on May 14th.  Dealer originally said my 5 year power train warranty was covering the replacement of all 8 injectors.

 

Waited about 5 days and heard nothing back.  Called service writer and was told the injectors would not be covered.  I asked if they could check to see

if the injectors would be covered under my extended warranty - GMPP - GM Protection Plan - which expires in 2021 or 84,000 miles on odometer.

 

They checked and said GMPP is covering all 8 injectors and my deductible is $200.00.

 

Now the dealer did not clear the engine light the second time it came on.  It has remained on - until yesterday - light went off and has not come back on.

 

Waiting to see what happens.  Do these CELs normally go off after a certain amount of time?

 

Truck still runs good - only I notice a sight rough idle when starting truck cold.

 

Purchased truck new in August, 2014.  Now has 30,000 miles.

Posted

When the CEL turns off on it's own depends on the specific problem.  Some problems, like if the MAF sensor is left unplugged, will turn off right away when it's plugged in again, others will need a certain number of ignition cycles without the problem reoccurring before the light goes off, and others will require one or more testing cycles to complete before it goes off on it's own (where the testing cycle may not happen immediately or take some time to complete).

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Update from my last post on May 25th.

 

My extended warranty - GMPP - GM Protection Plan - which expires in 2021 or 84,000 miles - is covering the cost of the 8 new fuel injectors less a $200.00 deductible.

 

I dropped my '14 GMC Sierra off at the dealer today at 4:30PM.  Service Rep said I should have it back Thurs. afternoon.  I was informed the 5 Year PowerTrain warranty

does not cover fuel injectors.  FYI only code P050D logged when CEL came on.  No other codes.  Will post again after I get the truck back.

 

 

 

 

Posted

Picked up my truck from the dealer today - Wed, June 12th.  All 8 fuel injectors were replaced.

 

Receipt lists  " INSTALLED 12684125  :SL-N-INJECTOR KIT (0300-CT)  Qty: 8 "

 

My "receipt" lists no numbers for labor, materials, etc. - just says Warranty under Amount.

 

I did get a look at the paper with the total on it - around $1,200.00.  Dealer service rep said something about

their cost billed back to GMPP and my cost without the extended warranty would have been much higher.

 

I paid $200.00 - my extended warranty deductible.  Time will tell if this fix works and keeps the CEL off.

 

 

  • 4 months later...
Posted

I am having the same code and problems with my ‘17 Silverado with the 6.2 with 47,000 miles. Dealership said that the injectors aren’t covered under warranty even though they know they are a problem. How do I get GM to warranty these? 

Posted

Unless you got the letter from gm stating they extended the warranty on the injectors on your specific VIN, plan on paying for them yourself. If you're mechanically inclined do it yourself and save a lot of money. All you need is 8 injectors, which might be hard to find with the strike, 2 high pressure fuel lines and 8 intake gaskets. There's videos on YouTube showing how it's done. It should only take 4 hours or so depending on skill level. Just make sure the holes in the head where the injectors go are clean and free of any burrs.

I replaced my bank 2 injectors last week then had 2 of them fail again this week. Second time took me less than 2 hours. Only thing I can guess is there was something in the hole that nicked the seals and caused them to fail prematurely. Either that of there's something wrong with my engine causing the seals to fail. Both times my injectors failed was on cylinders 4 and 6 which are AFM cylinders which has me thinking there's something deeper going on. I guess we'll see if I can make it more than a week this time.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

  • 1 month later...
Posted

with the P050D code...'16 silverado, ~65k miles, no extended warranty...the CEL has been coming on and off for quite some time...but since i checked it, it has always been the P050D code...first recommendations were to flush with injector cleaner...i have done that a few times...seemed to work eventually...but i am to the point it must be something more...would it be worth changing the spark plugs before i take it to the shop?  that is one of the recommended fixes (and would be MUCH cheaper than injectors) but i dont want to just through away $50-$100 on spark plugs if they arent needed...

 

if not, since i am out of warranty, i dont plan on going to a dealership...plan on going to a regular mechanic...any idea what the damage will be?  sounds like the $1200 mentioned above was internal charges...i'm nervous what the bill might be...

 

this has been the worst chevy (out of three, i have bought each brand new) i have every had...it is frustrating as hell...

Posted

I had that same code but a p0300 also and was started to blow white smoke out of the exhaust. I ended up just paying out of pocket for injectors and fuel lines. It wasn’t worth the fight with GM. My mechanics checked everything else out also. Spark plugs were fouled and the cylinders weren’t washed out with fuel. He changed the oil though and did an upper induction cleaning   I just got the call today that it’s done, a month and a half later, about to write an $1800 check for 8 new injectors, new fuel lines, oil change, and induction cleaning. If you do just the injectors and fuel lines it should be around 1,200-1,400

  • Sad 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

What part numbers are you guys getting for the injectors? The ones that came out of my truck are 12668390, dealership said new replacement part was 12684125, but then looks like 12698484 is the newest part. I ordered 12698484 from GM wholesale dealer, box says 12698484 but the injector is stamped 12681212.

 

Seems like a lot of conflicting info on this fuel injector issue..

 

12681212 (that I just got in today) is grouped with 12668390 (that came out of my truck) under the latest replacement number so I'm guessing I can use these. Everywhere is back ordered so I guess I'm lucky I even got these

Edited by Cohen

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I know; crap pictures.   Anyway, as a finale of sorts to this thread, I had replaced both differential covers and since they had the capability of adding temperature probes, I did that. These are MaxTow analog/digital gauges with stepper motors. They'll flutter around like crazy for a moment and start at a nominal 100 degrees Fahrenheit.   I drove a 30-mile loop to the grocery store, averaging 70 MPH (as much as 80 to see if there was a quick spike in temperature. The air temperature is 102 (ambient ?). but the first pic is 7 miles into the trip. The second is getting back into the truck after leaving the store; differential temperatures dropped about three to four degrees in 15 minutes. The third pic in on the road to my house, about a mile away.   In that run, I saw a high of 150F on the rear differential, and 121F on the front. I'm sure a longer drive or towing will see higher than that, and when that happens, I can update the observations. 
    • You don't want to become predictable now, do you? 😏
    • Fully warm, coolant temp >194, closed loop.   Run time can be anywhere from just reached operating temperature to having driven 30+ miles.   The O2 chart (which is a feature I just discovered after reading) for the bad idle seems to be "most" of the time. For the little time I've been watching it (scanning and driving! watchout!) I can't seem to isolate any cause or condition yet.   It definitely idles rougher sometimes than others and so far what I've seen is the rougher idles are always rich. But not enough to set a CEL.   In other news I replaced the starter solenoid. Everything on this truck is such a PITA. Starter "snout" is mangled up with the torque converter inspection cover which is tangled up with hard cooling lines and the driveshaft. But I got 'er done without too much swearing...I just go into everything now knowing it's going to be a frustrating mess.   The starter solenoid replacement kicks off the next round of work: AC, injector rebuild, cat, exhaust. I'm just going to do it all. But first:   I don't know what my fuel pressures are. I can't definitively say the issue is the injector without first verifying fuel pressures and any leakdown. I "rented" a test kit ($199.99 at O'Really's ...intentional misspelling). They don't "rent" tools anymore, they charge you for the tool and then you return it when you're done. No joke. It is listed as a rental on the receipt but the guy told me there's no difference between renting and buying  now, you just return it when you're done and they refund the credit card. Mmmkay, whatever.   I will rule out fuel pressure issues (too much), and any leaking (that's how I'll know the problem is inside the intake). I think someone said the return line could be plugged or not flowing and that could cause high fuel pressure (and too much fuel being pushed through injectors). I'll cross that bridge if I get high readings.   As of now I'm ready to tear off the intake cover, extract the injector, and have it sent off to be rebuilt just so I can rule that out.
    • What are the conditions of this rich idle? Warm or cold engine? Run time? Does every idle look like this or only sometimes?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...