Jump to content

Gas mileage & programmer !?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2015 Chevy z71 5.3.  Gets horrible gas mileage. Doesn’t matter if i baby it around or go balls to the walls. Only gets a good consistent 12-13 mpg. Any ideas? Programmer? Little tricks?

Posted

Flex fuel or no? Clean that maf and run premium. If you have a way to reset your long term fuel trims do it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Posted

Too hard to say why without data logs or a video from a live data scanner than can show all sorts of information that could point to how it's running.

 

If flex fuel but not running "flex" fuels, the fuel composition could be stuck/reporting incorrectly and tanking the fuel mileage. Dirty MAF sensor, lazy o2 sensors, minor vacuum leaks could all cause poor mpg.

 

How quickly you drive and if you leave the vehicle idle for long periods of time will ruin fuel mileage too.

Posted

Do you rely on the DIC for your mileage or do you hand calculate?

 

I'm running an experiment where I'm tracking my MPG but I'm hand calculating everything by the gas pump.  I find my DIC for mileage is waaay off, by an average of 3-4 MPG or so.  When it is high and seems ambitious, it really isn't... and vice versa when it is low.

 

Try hand calculating it sometime and see if it turns out to be a bit higher than 12-13 MPG.

Posted

How about you tell us about the truck. Is it all stock, lifted, bigger wheels, etc. 

 

 

Posted
51 minutes ago, Jacoby said:

How about you tell us about the truck. Is it all stock, lifted, bigger wheels, etc. 

^This, and what speeds are you driving? There are people in Texas who go nearly 100 on county roads. So that would also tank your mileage while driving a brick on wheels.

Posted

IF you are stock, then 12-13 is low. You def have an issue that needs to be fixed, no tuner or programmer can help raise that w/o getting the issues fixed.

I usually run 87 on mine and thats my baseline, i get 18-19 hand calculated per tank. 

I tried 90 non-ethanol for one tank and the numbers dropped slightly, no real improvement. 

Now im trying 87 Mobil gas, see how that does compared to Speedway 87 i get usually. 

 

Try a different gas station, use Techron fuel injector cleaner, no other brand works from my experience. Its about $8 buck, run it back to back twice.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
    • That's good to know, but I don't think I'll even be running them under 45 in the rear  unless it's on the sand or something but will only be for a short distance anyways!    I didn't read all the instructions in the booklet yet, but do you know let's say I set the rear psi on the placard to 45, will the warning light come on soon as it drops under 45 or is there a percentage it has to drop from the set value before the warning light is triggered?
    • That's bad.  Like, its probably destroying the stub axle the CV slides into.   Do you have a proper lift installed with differential lowering brackets?  Did you install AT4/Trail Boss factory CV axles?  
    • Hot? New Jersey? Today? I was working on my old 2000 Silverado 1500 today. Believe me, it was boiling hot today. As it has been.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...