Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Can anyone clarify what other GM models’ mirrors are interchangeable with our trucks ? I see some in this thread have found Cadillac mirrors. There’s Escalade mirrors on eBay for $300. 17-20 model year. They look a bit different and different part numbers. 

Edited by HoustonVol
Posted

Here you go. I found some camaro ones for 200 ish I just need to verify they fit2ab98192beb6a759034c55d588692fa0.jpg

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

Posted

IDK if the Gen 1 mirrors work in our trucks, I know the 2019 CT6 uses the same mirror part number as our trucks.  Someone earlier in the thread used a 2019 XT4 mirror, he posted the part number.

Posted

does any one know the part number for the actual camera inside the light? I did this install with a rear view mirror cam/bed view cam lense and did not look before i put it on. i have a high mount light but it is a bed view type cam and i want to put rear view mirror cam in it to sell.

2020-07-19 16.16.21.jpg

Posted

Installed mine today. Thanks for all the part numbers and install tips!

 

 

20200720_143403.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
Installed mine today. Thanks for all the part numbers and install tips!
 
 
20200720_143403.thumb.jpg.d5326949d77f577fba3ffd472388c4ef.jpg
Where did you get the mirror from?

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

Posted
1 minute ago, Kyle's AT4 said:

Where did you get the mirror from?

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk
 

Ebay. There was a reseller that had take offs. Wasn't any cheaper than the gmparts websites but it works and I'm happy with it. 

Posted
On 7/9/2020 at 3:30 PM, pewterliftedz said:

Can someone look up the coax cable for a escalade or tahoe, that one would be longer and eliminate the issue with having to order a new spoiler.

I’ve seen this one a few times. It says it fits model year 20’ Escalade and xt4. Fiat, do you think this would work ? Or is the housing with harness still the only way to go?

F7011897-2C59-4374-A534-D6DA76C3DD6C.png

Posted
On 7/20/2020 at 10:30 PM, Zach-91 said:

Installed mine today. Thanks for all the part numbers and install tips!

 

 

20200720_143403.jpg

do you by chance know part number of the actual camera inside the high mount brake light?

Posted
9 minutes ago, Rally6.2RST said:

do you by chance know part number of the actual camera inside the high mount brake light?

I didn't see any numbers on it. 

Posted
17 minutes ago, HoustonVol said:

Someone posted earlier in this thread that the camera is #84699124

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-high-mount-lamp-84699124

 

I think that is high mount light part number. heres a pic of mine. i want to verify what cam is in the light.  I had a bed view cam in my mine 84676845 also same type they use in 360 view cams in 2020 models.  i am trying to figure out if rear view mirror cam has a different part number.

20200724_181531.jpg

Posted
On 11/18/2019 at 10:25 AM, Yoda2 said:

Hazem,

Was dropping the entire headliner a must?

Did you have to remove the seats?

I looked at an A1 You Tube video and it looked like a nightmare.

 

Some of you guys are a lot more courageous than I.

This is a brand new truck to me and I'm worried about damaging the headliner.

 

Steve

Can you post the video?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was using recirc/max air. Especially if it really hot i start out by lowering the front windows a little with regular ac the go to recirculation after a few and rolling windows up. And it does not have the newest refrigerant. It has per the info under the hood r134. Not the new r1234yf.  
    • tldr; Shade tree mechanic stumped by variable displacement AC compressor.   Not Silverado related, but for my 2000 Camaro SS. I've never really used the AC since acquiring the car a good handful of years ago. I plan to take it on a trip this summer so I wanted to make sure the AC was in good shape. On an 73 degree day in the shop with the car idling I set the AC on "Max", temp set to cold, and fan on hi. The compressor turned on and air turned nice and cold.   I let it run for several minutes but noticed the compressor never cycled off. The engine was up to temperature enough that it began cycling the cooling fans on high. I had a set of manifold gauges hooked up and it was consistently at about 25 psi on the low side and between 200 and 225 psi (warm engine) on the high side. Per temperature charts, the low side is low (should be 30-35) and the high side is a little high (up to 170 per chart). I read the low pressure as potentially being under-charged underscored by a continually running compressor This was also underscored by temp readings of mid-20 degrees at the vents. Not just cold, freezing cold. Switching off the AC but leaving the HVAC fan on high produced a deluge of condensation underneath the vehicle. I was getting ice buildup on the evap core most likely.   The low reading (25psi) concerned me that the compressor wasn't switching off so I swapped out the pressure switch. No change in behavior, still ran constantly.   The AC clutch works fine as it engages/disengages with the HVAC switch on command. The compressor relay is good as I swapped it with two different known good relays just to be sure. Having eliminated that, and the pressure switch, I added refrigerant, thinking the constant run and low "low" pressure were signs of a slight undercharge. Makes sense, the car is 26 years old and it doesn't appear the AC system has ever been touched.   Adding some R134a didn't meaningfully change the low side pressure. And that's when a lightbulb flashed upstairs. While I consider the car "old", it's possibly "new" enough to have a variable displacement compressor. Did some reading and sure enough. Dangit. I don't work on these for this reason.   Adding refrigerant means the compressor will just compensate and won't really change pressures until it's severely overcharged or undercharged. But at least I wasn't getting ice/frost anymore, but instead high 30 degree temps out of the vents. That's more normal, but with variable displacement now I have no idea where my charge level is at. It's probably overcharged now. The high side even with the engine radiating serious heat was never really over about 225.   The static pressure at room temperature is dead on, before and after the charge. Both high/low equalize after some rest.   I'm thinking I'll need to take it to a shop. I want the proper charge level so I'm not working the compressor too hard. The only way to get an accurate charge is to evacuate and then re-charge with the exact amount specified for the system -- at least that's what I'm reading.   Anyone here with modern automotive AC knowledge?  
    • Mine is in the shop for the AC now. While it did get cold after a bit, it would take a while to even start to cool the air at all. Turns out the compressor was bad and cycling. 
    • I call B.S. when I first moved to Texas my first house would only cool to 80 with the Texas heat. The AC tech said it was normal at 100 degrees outside. I remodeled the house put in a new AC. I could hang meat. My cars may need recirculating to start. Once moving it switches to regular AC and I could hang meat. Living in Texas no one would put up with only 20 degrees difference. 
    • AC in home or auto only cool down 15-25 degrees from outside temp, but what will help is to put the ac in recirc mode this will recirc the Inside cabin air rather then trying to cool down the outside hot air, I always have mine in recirc mode.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...