Jump to content

8 spd full flush and filter change recommendation, pricing, TSB#, 2016


DeathByNissan55

Recommended Posts

Posted

So they specifically stated that it would be $546.29 on top of the fluid, filter and gasket?  If so find another dealer.  I figure they stated that as the total, which means the labor would be$309.71  Which is still high but not sure what the labor rate they are charging.

 

 

  • Replies 38
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

the cheapest I could find the fluid was from Summit racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mob-124715/overview/                 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mob-124715-1/overview/ here is the TSB how to do the flush.  20qts is required. the procedure should flush out the converter.  labor is 1.4 hours. not including the filter. so 2 hours including filter would be about right.  do you have a 60,000 miles drivetrain or 100,000 mile? its covered under drivetrain warranty if you have the 100,000 mile 

TSB 18-NA-355.pdf

Posted

Looks like bottom to me, no inlet shown.  That's the pic provided by ac delco. 

Posted

The 8sp takes time. To get the correct amount you have to have the trans at a certain temp.    It took them 3 hrs time to flush mine BUT the charged a flat rate of $99 because I supplied the fluid.

Posted

2nd dealer gave me same price cuz it's 2 separate services I guess, 1 is to flush old stuff, and other is to replace filter and refill with right stuff.

 

1 said it was filter, another dealer said it was a screen and that it doesn't get replaced, but then he did some research and said it could be replaced.....

This truck has been out for 3 years, how do they not know how to service them?

 

I understand mine has more than avg miles, but when you make a maint schedule, you usually come up with the services first right? Otherwise how would you know what's included in a service to tell you how often it should be changed.....

 

I have a feeling it's a lot of people not knowing what they're doing, kinda want to get the service manual  now lol

 

Still haven't scheduled it yet obviously, might wait until after I get the truck ceramic coated.

Posted

GM does not recommend replacing the filter.  Probably dont expect the trans to last long enough to plug the filter with the BS epa regulated tune.   They use the new fluid to flush out the old. thats why it requires 20qts.  if they were going to replace the filter they drop the pan and replace the filter. then they refill with new fluid and start the flush. it would still require 20 qts.  They are trying to rip you off or the service writer doesnt know what hes talking about.  Usually the service writer doesnt know or they would be a tech themselves.  

Posted
1 hour ago, JCunningham said:

GM does not recommend replacing the filter.  Probably dont expect the trans to last long enough to plug the filter with the BS epa regulated tune.   They use the new fluid to flush out the old. thats why it requires 20qts.  if they were going to replace the filter they drop the pan and replace the filter. then they refill with new fluid and start the flush. it would still require 20 qts.  They are trying to rip you off or the service writer doesnt know what hes talking about.  Usually the service writer doesnt know or they would be a tech themselves.  

But the 90000 miles service recommends changing the filter too.

I 100% understand that the TSB's say for shudders and stuff that you just need to flush it and not change the filter, the only reason I'm interested in changing filler is because maint schedule requires it. 

 

I just don't want to take any chances because I know these has issues from the factory.  This one has lasted 90k so I'm sure it's fine but I just want to take care of it.

Posted

damn it my dealer lied to me. Said gm told them not to change the filters. not the 1st time theu lied to me but it was the last. 

Posted

*update*

Called 3 different dealers, got around the same price.

One of the posts on this thread hit the nail on the head when they said labor was higher because the exhaust has to be removed.

 

People were adamant about not replacing the filter though, but I think its mostly because they think I'm having the shudder issue which I'm not really (to my knowledge).

 

I'm most likely going to go with the first guy that offered the discount, but see if i can get a bulk discount on transmission fluid for cheaper than what they could get it for.

 

Have to wait 2 weeks now because getting ceramic coating done next week and they need it for a week to do that....I'm running out of money quickly haha, hello credit card haha

Posted

Also, theres a sale on SummitRacing that you buy 6 quarts of the correct transmission fluid, you get 6 free, so I ordered 24qts and paid for 12, just saved myself the 30$ off the original quote, plus I'll have some extra leftover.

Apparently its limited time deal though, so might be over by the time you read this haha

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Ok so I got my transmission fluid flushed and filter changed.  Used the correct stuff (Mobil HD LV blue label), they told me theyd only use 20qts but they used all 24 qts which I feel is bullshit.  They changed the filter (which I will attach pics in following post). 

 

Cost me 597$ out the door when I provided the trans fluid for them to use, that includes a 10% discount, includes tax.

 

Got sample analyzed for 28$,  took about a week but wasn't 100% paying attn so email might have come sooner.  It was slightly darker and didn't smell terrible, so I assume it was still ok. Attached is picture of fluid and my fluid analysis report.  They said aluminum was slightly higher, they guessed since this was most likely original fluid that it was due to during break in of transmission's built in pump.  But the maint schedule said it should have been changed at 45000 miles....so I'll have to keep an eye on it.Other than that there was nothing outrageous seen. Also NO WATER CONTENT which is what I believe caused many of the issues these trans saw so that's GREAT!

 

Pics of the filter will be coming in following posts per someone's request, I'll cut it in half another day and post that pic too.

 

Also changed the front and rear diffs and tfr case fluid.

takes 18mm socket on front diff fill plug and tfr case fill and drain plugs, front diff drain and rear diff fill uses 3/8" ratchet drive  directly.

 

I used NON-limited slip additive style, full synthetic 75w90 Mobil Delvac 1 Gear Oil for front and rear diffs, barely had enough by purchasing 5qts.  DO NOT GET LIMITED SLIP ADDITIVE  STYLE IF YOU HAVE MAX TRAILERING PKG FOR THIS YEAR. At the very least contact your dealer with your VIN to verify.  If I remember correctly, the cars with limited slip use the additive style diff, not the trucks.  If you have Z71 PKG, you will have to drop at least 1 skid plate to drain and fill front diff.

 

For tfr case, used AC Delco Dexron VI, p/n = 88865601 or 10-9394.  Bought 2 qts, maybe used 1.5, not sure just had some left over in 2nd bottle.

 

Hope this is helpful to someone!

I don't plan on flushing trans ever again unless there's an issue, only drain/fill every 45000 miles from now on (maybe buy aftermarket pan with drain plug), and I probably do the filter every other drain and fill depending on how filter media itself looks when I cut it open.

IMG_20191202_171810.jpg

 

Posted

All trucks use a locker so ya no limited slip additive is necessary but all High quality diff fluid has it in it already. it wont hurt anything. the max trailering has the same locker style as all the rest of the silverados.  You say DON'T get it like its going to destroy your diff.  Its just not needed. its not going to hurt anything

Posted
3 hours ago, JCunningham said:

All trucks use a locker so ya no limited slip additive is necessary but all High quality diff fluid has it in it already. it wont hurt anything. the max trailering has the same locker style as all the rest of the silverados.  You say DON'T get it like its going to destroy your diff.  Its just not needed. its not going to hurt anything

My understanding is that adding the friction modifiers for limited slip in these types of diffs causes them to wear out faster.  Also was told by dealer that they don't add any additives in with the gear oil and they use NON-limited slip style gear oil.

 

So would you consider the gear oil I got high quality?

 

And yea I just said max trailering cuz that's what I have and I didn't remember what size diff comes with the pkg.  Ultimately the VIN or the stamped number in the diff housing will tell you in a non modified version of our trucks.

 

But long story short, multiple dealers said the truck dont use limited slip additive, but the car versions of these diffs do.  So that's why I picked what I did and recommend what I recommend. 

Posted

Well, Eaton, who makes the G80, says you should put some friction modifier in, for the clutches the G80 has.

 

GM says not to put any in.

 

From what I've read on this and other forums, you can do either.  Some people initially fill without, and then notice a bit of shuddering, and add some friction modifier and the shuddering goes away.

 

You are the first person to suggest that adding friction modifiers causes them to wear out faster.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
    • I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 
    • Its possible you never had the joy of the crappy boat launches we tend to have around here or really some of them are just grades down to the river if its a river scenario and the conditions change all the time with the river levels and silt deposits. Some of the lakes we went to years ago, there was no such thing as a cement pad that went down into the water that the trailer stayed on, it was gravel maybe up to the water line and then duck crap much beyond that so sinking the boat tires into mud. Of course some of the more established lakes had a cement bar type boat ramp but sometimes it was covered in green slime closer and certainly within the water and a two wheel drive had all sorts of fun if one had to touch that slime with the rear tires.    A neighbor of mine had made a comment years back with his chev truck that was probably about the same year as yours but a half ton extended cab 4x4 and he a a fiberglass boat with an inboard so it wasn't a feather weight and he had gone out to one of the large popular lakes in the area and don't ask me how this happened but he was in two wheel drive as he figured he didn't require four wheel drive for that boat ramp and somehow upon pulling the boat out he twisted one of his drive axles. I suspect it must have spun and then grabbed on the cement ramp and shocked it to the degree of twisting it. He would have had the standard 8.5 or whatever it was axle housing as the 9.5 ring gear like my truck has also has larger drive axles as far as I know. Anyway he was feeling a vibration driving home and had it checked out and a shop found that the tire/hub was wobbling because of the axle had twisted so in went a new drive axle. After that bad experience he said he made sure to put it into four wheel drive to lower the stress on the rear axle. Of course that is where an HD truck can handle a lot more stress and no doubt these newer half tons with their larger ring gears probably have larger drive axles as well to match vs back in the day. 
    • Desirable - as in does someone WANT one, aspire to have one. Could reasonably buy any car they want and CHOOSE these instead.    I didn't watch the video, why did they win?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...