Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

If i buy a moto fab 2 inch leveling disk, would i have to replace my upper control arms with aftermarket ones? Ive seen two different answers from american trucks.com and now im confused...ive never put a leveling kit on any of my trucks so im not sure exactly what im getting into and all what it entails (2017 Silverado 1500) are they recommended but not required? Id rather not snap a ball joint and screw my truck up....TIA

Posted

The rule I have always heard is that 2 inches and less, your angles should be just fine. Once you hit the 2.5 inch point, or especially 3 inch and upwards, you get into bad angle territory. If you are really concerned after putting the leveling kit on, snap a picture after the truck is lowered to the ground and post the pic here. In the end, 2 inches should be fine though especially if this truck will be a pavement princess. (like mine 😉 )

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I have a 3" level with Motofab UCAs and, after a thousand miles, so far, they still look great!
No tire rubbing on stock 18" rims and 35" BFG all Terrains.
I did have a 2" level and ran the stock UCAs without issue but, when I wanted to go to a 3" level, my installer mentioned he wouldn't do it on stock UCAs.
 

IMG_0312.jpg

Edited by MikeBMW
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 5/12/2021 at 6:19 PM, MikeBMW said:

I have a 3" level with Motofab UCAs and, after a thousand miles, so far, they still look great!
No tire rubbing on stock 18" rims and 35" BFG all Terrains.
I did have a 2" level and ran the stock UCAs without issue but, when I wanted to go to a 3" level, my installer mentioned he wouldn't do it on stock UCAs.
 

IMG_0312.jpg

How are your shaft angles? 

Posted (edited)

They are fine, especially since I put on a 1.5" Zone body lift which has no effect.
A body lift isn't fun and one still has to get the bumpers to match the lift.
If you go above a 2" level. get new control arms.
Also, if you want to go higher without a real lift, lift the body.

Edited by MikeBMW
Posted

I have the Rough Country spacer that goes on the bottom on mine. I wanted to go with 275/60R20 tires so that is why I leveled. Still have the stock controller arms and no rubbing. My only issue is the sag on rear when hitching up my toyhauler camper so headlights point skyward. I didn't add any rear blocks. If I didn't have the level kit, when the rear sags, it would match the front just fine. I ended up adding airlift 5000 airbags because I got them at a bargain price. Now I can adjust the rear anytime whether towing or not.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

I too have the RC 2” lower strut spacer level. I want to correct the UCA angle but many people say not necessary as I do have aluminum arms. It’s challenging to find one for just a 2” level and I’m guessing that’s why. My brain won’t let the idea rest though. Does it make more sense to roll thru ball joints more often or over correct to a 2.5” UCA?

Posted
On 5/12/2021 at 11:05 AM, Nbarr7655 said:

The rule I have always heard is that 2 inches and less, your angles should be just fine. Once you hit the 2.5 inch point, or especially 3 inch and upwards, you get into bad angle territory. If you are really concerned after putting the leveling kit on, snap a picture after the truck is lowered to the ground and post the pic here. In the end, 2 inches should be fine though especially if this truck will be a pavement princess. (like mine 😉 )

 

 

 

I heard the same thing. I went with 2.5 inch spacer front and rear on a 2008 Suburban. I did not modify anything else, other than rear shock extenders.

 

I have put several thousand miles on it, and I have had no problems so far.

 

I assume that 2.5 is the absolute limit without further modifications such as upper control arms.

Posted
18 hours ago, weatherman3 said:

I too have the RC 2” lower strut spacer level. I want to correct the UCA angle but many people say not necessary as I do have aluminum arms. It’s challenging to find one for just a 2” level and I’m guessing that’s why. My brain won’t let the idea rest though. Does it make more sense to roll thru ball joints more often or over correct to a 2.5” UCA?


My truck has the aluminum arms. Two days after I bought it new, I put on a 2” level lower spacer. The spacers were 1” tall. At full suspension droop, the upper control arms were within 1/16” of touching the stops on the frame. I put 59,000 mi on with that setup until I went to the Eibach Pro Truck Lift setup at the lowest setting of 2-1/2”. The front shocks are 1” longer, so at full droop, the upper control arms are still about 1/16” from touching the frame stops. The truck now has 68,000 mi. 
 

I plan on keeping the stock arms until the ball joints show wear. Then, I’ll go to aftermarket UCAs. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • if you want a short turning radius get a short bed Colorado!
    • that is pretty awesome MPG there!  I think so far one observation is these trucks do way better on MPG under 65mph vs 70+ and they really suffer at 75+   I noticed on the stretches into NE on 76 and 80 which is posted 75MPH and I was doing 82 I was getting more like 13.    
    • No ETA is available for that engine at the moment in the GM system.   I would start at the dealer.  Try and talk to the parts manager or service manager and see if they can start a CX Connect case and get an ETA from GM on when engines may be available.  If they just check Parts Workbench and say "no eta", they aren't trying hard enough.  They need to do a CX Connect and chat with DPAC to find the ETA.      
    • I would have to read back to get a better picture in my mind of some of the other comments and what they were using for a driving scenario they based the fuel mileage off of. That is why the fuel mileage conversation is extremely difficult to make fair comparisons from. If I was to be living in town and only driving around town, light to light and some longer stretches that doesn't have a light every block, and the usual stop at a grocery store and the bank and so on and so forth, my fuel mileage even during the summer time would be so bad with my truck I don't even want to know how bad it would be !. Then add in winter time and idling to warm it up to clear the windows and driving through snowy streets etc, large heavy trucks with gas engines have NEVER been worth crap for fuel mileage and why some little pot licker of a car with wheelbarrow tires and a 1300 cc four cylinder non turbo engine was the ticket to using a mere fraction of the fuel over a full size pickup.    By the way my truck has the 34" tires as its a HC but not the BFG KO3 tires ( that was an option for my truck but the sales guy couldn't figure out what the tires actually were so that never got on the order until it was too late to change the truck order ). So what fuel mileage your getting actually sounds good for "town driving" and with my truck when I go to town the fuel mileage keeps increasing as I get closer to town because it takes quite a while to get the driveline oils warmed up ( and why it always shows better fuel mileage on the return trip from town because its already warmed up ) but once I am in town that fuel mileage average just keeps dropping the more I mess around town and then has to recover back to something reasonable again by the time I get home for an over all average.    I'd be curious what your sticker says for the factory weight of your truck, mine is close around that 7700 lb due to the options it has. But anyway the long and short is, vehicle weight, higher rolling resistance heavy tires and a hefty driveline and a relatively large gas engine make for crap fuel mileage in stop and go scenarios, all one can do is drive it easy off the line at each stop and as my dad had said over the years, drive like a raw egg is under your foot and that's the best one can do. Years back with a carbed engine and if the carb was getting a bit out of tune etc as would the ignition system, the fuel mileage on pickups with larger engines was just awful compared to what your getting. We pay the fuel price penalty for driving HD trucks over some little vehicle, that is the reality. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...