Jump to content

Tilted Front Differential w/ Fabtech Lift


Recommended Posts

Posted

Well, just got an email from my differential shop saying the 4.88s were installed and the truck was ready for pick up. I wish I could be happier but some other news was reported. This is there second attempt with the front gear install. What happened is apparently with the fabtech 6in lift, the front differential is tilted ALOT. So with the first attempt at installing the gears, on the test run the bearings burned up because they weren't getting oil.

 

The cool guy that Jason over at Texas Drivetrain Performance is ordered new gears, bearings, seals on his dime to replace this. On the second install he said he had to "overfill" the differential to ensure the bearings would be lubricated and able to get oil but recommended I take the truck to a lift shop because the tilt was so sharp.

 

So I go to work and try to find similar scenarios. I've come up short so far with GM/CHEVY situations. However, I found similar stories with other vehicles with the Fabtech lift doing this and Fabtechs recommendation was to "overfill' the differential as well..

 

Does this seem right and is this a permanent, safe fix? Fail on Fabtech's part?

Posted

I would assume as long as they get cooled, there shouldn't be any issues. Not sure what the long term effects are of overfilling a diff.

Posted

Jason's a good guy. Glad to see he's still around. I'm not sure you have any real long term concerns either except making sure it stays overfilled

Posted

The only thing I can think of is if the diff drops were installed incorrectly. Maybe backwards or even upside down. It's a full diff drop so there is another issue. Pics please and which way is it tilted?

 

 

Posted

it will always be tilted no matter what to keep drive line angle at a minimum. when i did a cognito 10-12" i had to add quite a bit of fluid to the front and rear diffs. this sounds normal and correct to me

Posted

I guess what the main question is, do they tell you that you require to put more fluid in the diff in the instructions from the lift? Sounds like to me of they tell you an amount, then do it and if it causes it to fail, go after the manufacture of the lift. If they don't, and you diff blows from the angles and not getting enough fluid, go after them for not mentioning that this may happen. It should all be part of the install instructions since you clearly need to change its angle.

Posted

it will always be tilted no matter what to keep drive line angle at a minimum. when i did a cognito 10-12" i had to add quite a bit of fluid to the front and rear diffs. this sounds normal and correct to me

 

 

I could see it with a 10 -12" lift but not the Fabtech. My diff doesn't appear to be angled at all. I wouldn't of thought that.

Posted

Does this diff not fill from a plug in the side? If so, it is real tough to over fill. Once it hits the open plug, it will just dump it on the floor. You will also want to watch for leaks at the axle seals on the diff. Not sure about a front diff that has no axle tubes, but on diffs with axle tubes, the axle seals are not really designed to run in a tube that is completely full of diff oil. Also look at the vent for the housing, make sure it is as high up as it can be.

 

If the front pinion is pointing upwards, you will also want to ensure the oil is high enough to cover pinion bearings. Diffs gets some of their oil distributed by the rotating ring gear and the rest by having oil level high enough to get down the axles, and over the carrier bearings.

 

Generally pinion angle should be kept at 3 degrees or lower. Any higher and you will get a vibration, lots higher, ujoint will likely fail, or at the least, shake the living shit out of the truck.

Posted

If someone really needed to put more fluid in the diff than the side hole allows, could you put fluid in through the vent hose, or is there a one way valve?

Posted

i have never once installed a lift kit on a gm that keeps the front diff as level as stock... and trust me i have installed my fair share of lifts. every kit i've ever done has angled brackets to some extend to drop the diff. if you look here at the picture of the fabtech lift kit, the two brackets right below the steering knuckles are what drops the diff. and they are clearly angled

http://www.fabtechmotorsports.com/products/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=111&display=GMC/CHEVY%204WD

 

and again in their instructions

http://www.fabtechmotorsports.com/pdfs/instructions/Fabtech-install_FT21046i.pdf

page 9: step 18 tells you to put the wider end towards the front. also shows the picture of the bracket very clearly that's angled... this is done to help with the front drive shaft angle. just like you would install pinion shims in the rear so the driveshaft lines up better after you lift certain ways

Posted

Thanks for all te comments guys. I wish I could provide pictures but I'm still overseas and I myself haven't even seen this angle he's talking about and it's driving me nuts. I wish I could at least see how "sharp" this tilt is. Fabtech confirmed it is suppose to be slightly titled however Jason makes it seem like is not right and tilted greatly...

 

He said he completely filled the differential and recommends I don't go 4wd until I get a lift shop to check it out. He did say he doesnt know much about lifts because they don't do them.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...