Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

To the guys with Sierra SLE, did you have any problems with the hids running as drl's? Does it make a difference which wattage i get? Would prefer 55w just not sure if its too much for drl. After reading 180 pages im still not clear on which wattage i should get or if i need both relay and error cancel? Thanks.

Posted

To the guys with Sierra SLE, did you have any problems with the hids running as drl's? Does it make a difference which wattage i get? Would prefer 55w just not sure if its too much for drl. After reading 180 pages im still not clear on which wattage i should get or if i need both relay and error cancel? Thanks.

I run my hid's on basically all the time as DRL's. I have the 5000k bulbs with the 35 watt ballast. In my opinion the 5000k bulbs with the 35 watt ballast are a little too blue/purple for my taste. But I bought a set of 4300k bulbs and they looked too much like oem and didn't match my 5000k led's fogs. If I could go back again I would of chosen the 55 watt ballasts with the 5000k bulbs as they would of been whiter.

  • Like 1
Posted

Preheat oven to 240

Bake headlight for 20 minutes

Use a small straight blade screw driver to quickly work around headlight and break seal

Reheat for approx 7 minutes

Remove lens. I'm opening these lights in about half an hour now. Not near as hard as it seems.

Do you tape over any openings before you bake the lights? Set the light on a cookie sheet? Thanks
Posted

Shouldn't have to. Just pull cover off and remove bulb and wiring. Then bake

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Posted

Do you tape over any openings before you bake the lights? Set the light on a cookie sheet? Thanks

Yea take all the rubber trim off and open the bulb caps then bake on a cookie sheet

Posted

2f490702d12b34d2b1a58e100c274ab6.jpg

I have a leftover retro kit from trs I ordered for another F150 I was planning to get a year or so ago. Went and got my Sierra instead, but I had already ordered the 2.5" fxrs. I know 3"s are a better fit, but anyone retro with a 2.5? Also, anyone who used the fast headlights adapter plate know if they work with the 2.5" fxrs

 

Other question I have, is how will the ballast connectors hook up to the bulbs with the dust caps? Do I need different ballasts with the connectors coming straight out and not straight down like in my pic

 

I have the trs sierra spec kit now but 35w, the fxr kit is 55W, so can I use my current harness. Trs having a sale this weekend so might as well pick up whatever I might need thx guys

Posted

Hey guys I just installed my HID kit from XenonDepot two days ago and i'm having a slight issue with them lighting. They work fine most of the time but every now now and then when i start the vehicle only one ignites, it alternates, sometimes its the left one sometimes its the right one and one time neither ignited. I can usually get them to ignite by manually turning them off then back on with the light control nob, sometimes I have to shut the ignition off and back on. I thought it was only happening when i used the auto start on the remote but the last time I used that feature they worked fine so I don't believe that is the problem. Any advice would be appreciated, I've looked through this thread but am getting lost in the many pages here. Thanks!

Posted

Searched the thread, but didn't find what I'm looking for..

 

Is anyone running the Silverado Spec Morimoto kit in the factory REFLECTOR housings?

 

I'm looking at the 4500k H11A kit.

Posted

And I got the rigid halos mounted

 

SVWeHzM.jpg

Danger which rigid fogs did you go with?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Posted

6 bulb?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Jet, I had the same issue with my last sierra kit. The capacitor link would not work. Tried everything they suggested. Relays were buzzing and the light would flicker. Sanded metal to get proper ground too. Ordered 2 more but never tried them because I traded my 2nd in for a 4wd. Got my kit tonight so I will try them when I open the back of the lights and complete my fxr retro.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

I'm sure this has been discussed here before, but when installing the capacitor link, not only is a good ground important, but also when connecting it into the harness, make sure the wire colors (red to red and black to black) are correct. I have a feeling I may have fried my first capacitor link because I "assumed" plugging everything together so that the plugs locked together was correct. With my new link first I looked at wire colors, then the orientation of the plug locks. I ended up swapping wires on 2 different plugs to get the polarities correct and the plugs locked together. I had read in several different places that "you may have to reverse polarity" but I didn't fully understand what that meant. Now with my new cap link installed with wire colors matched, and plug locks engaged, everything works correctly.

Edited by jetfixer737

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
    • My brand new 2007 Silverado's wax frame was rust from end to end partway through it's SECOND winter here in MA. That stuff is completely useless.    
    • I went another direction after losing a trailer tire, thanks to not being able to access air at ANY of the 5 gas stations and garages I stopped at prior, with a Toyota Tacoma onboard, 50 miles from the Canadian border. They were either out of order, access was blocked, or the hose a few feet too short and I couldn't get any closer without risking damage to someone's property.   https://postimg.cc/gallery/X5QJ55w
    • I took a 12 second video on my iphone but the file is too big to upload. I will have to figure out how to extract the audio or just do another start with an audio recording. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...