Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

tanner709 Enthusiast

tanner709

Posted
Posted (edited)

Haven't seen many that think the 5100's improve the ride. I would stay with P rated Nitto or Toyo.

I really don't see it getting better than stock.

 

If you want the height and ride quality you should turn to a quality lift. One has to be sacrificed unfortunately, I had the same dilemma.

Edited by tanner709
  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

ChevyTrucks_95 Enthusiast

ChevyTrucks_95

Posted
Posted

I have a 2015 Silverado z71. Currently it has the front 2.5 RC level kit with a zone off-road add-a-leaf. The ride has been getting pretty bad lately so I started throwing around the idea of new shocks and maybe struts. I'm leaning towards the 5100's. In the rear I want to add the RC 2"block and keep the add a leaf. Could I order rear shocks that are for a 2500 and mount them on my 1500?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CptMcSaug Enthusiast

CptMcSaug

Posted
Posted

I have a 2015 Silverado z71. Currently it has the front 2.5 RC level kit with a zone off-road add-a-leaf. The ride has been getting pretty bad lately so I started throwing around the idea of new shocks and maybe struts. I'm leaning towards the 5100's. In the rear I want to add the RC 2"block and keep the add a leaf. Could I order rear shocks that are for a 2500 and mount them on my 1500?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

The rear Bilstiens are rated for 1 or 2" of lift I can't remember or you could buy shock extenders.

NIXONRIDE Enthusiast

NIXONRIDE

Posted
Posted (edited)

I spent countless hours on the forums and looking at available kits. I wanted something that did not change highway ride quality and also improved off road capability. I ended up going with Camburg's 2.5 coilover kit. I absolutely love this kit, it drives great on road and amazing off road. .

 

https://camburg.com/shop/suspension/fox-chevy-1500-2wd-4wd-07-14-factory-2-5-kit/

 

#2a.jpg

#4a.jpg

What size wheels and tires are you running? I am looking at getting some XD 808 Menece 22x9.5 in +12 with some 33x12.50x22 Nitto Ridge Grapplers and a 2-2.5" leveling kit. I too would prefer not to loose and ride quality so was thinking of going with a new coil over set up...your kit isn't much cheaper than doing a 4" BDS lift with the fox shocks though. You don't have to cut the frame or anything with this set up do you? Also does it make the front wheels stick out like the lifts do? Edited by NIXONRIDE
Headqrts66 Enthusiast

Headqrts66

Posted
Posted

I am Running 285/70R17. No cutting of the frame was needed and it does not make the front tires stick out.

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

What size wheels and tires are you running? I am looking at getting some XD 808 Menece 22x9.5 in +12 with some 33x12.50x22 Nitto Ridge Grapplers and a 2-2.5" leveling kit. I too would prefer not to loose and ride quality so was thinking of going with a new coil over set up...your kit isn't much cheaper than doing a 4" BDS lift with the fix shows though. You don't have to cut the frame or anything with this set up do you? Also does it make the front wheels stick out like the lifts do?

I am Running 285/70R17. No cutting of the frame was needed and it does not make the front tires stick out.
mmwest Enthusiast

mmwest

Posted
Posted

One of the most important tips I'd like to pass on ,even after reading every single post is that you should never stack blocks. I have a 2.5" RC that had stock block with the RC 2" on top of it. I was trying to get more rake iota the truck so when I tow I wouldn't be nose high. WRONG. The truck rode like shit so I had the rear stock block removed. Man what a difference. Hope this helps someone out.

BowtieTJ Enthusiast

BowtieTJ

Posted
Posted

One of the most important tips I'd like to pass on ,even after reading every single post is that you should never stack blocks. I have a 2.5" RC that had stock block with the RC 2" on top of it. I was trying to get more rake iota the truck so when I tow I wouldn't be nose high. WRONG. The truck rode like shit so I had the rear stock block removed. Man what a difference. Hope this helps someone out.

I have 2.5" level in front and stock in rear. So are you saying as long as you don't stack blocks on top of rear, I should be okay to remove stock block and add an aftermarket block that is same brand as my front level?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted

I have 2.5" level in front and stock in rear. So are you saying as long as you don't stack blocks on top of rear, I should be okay to remove stock block and add an aftermarket block that is same brand as my front level?

 

Brand of block doesn't matter....just don't stack an aftermarket block on top of the OEM block. Rule is SINGLE BLOCK between the spring pack and top of axle.

jrubicon Enthusiast

jrubicon

Posted
Posted

im planning on just a 1" front lift using the spacer on the lower A arm. Do ya'll think an alignment is stil necessary after?????

techsan15 Enthusiast

techsan15

Posted
Posted

im planning on just a 1" front lift using the spacer on the lower A arm. Do ya'll think an alignment is stil necessary after?????

Yes, anytime you mess with the geometry an alignment is needed.

BowtieTJ Enthusiast

BowtieTJ

Posted
Posted

 

Brand of block doesn't matter....just don't stack an aftermarket block on top of the OEM block. Rule is SINGLE BLOCK between the spring pack and top of axle.

Thanks for the note. How does your truck ride with the rear block? I have a 14 high country 4wd w 2.5 up front. 305 55

 

Thanks!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the note. How does your truck ride with the rear block? I have a 14 high country 4wd w 2.5 up front. 305 55

 

You're not going to notice any ride difference with the 1" taller block in the rear. The shocks have plenty of travel and you are not altering the spring pack so the only difference you will notice is 7/8" more rake than you have now. Remember to put the fat end of the block to the rear...it's tapered.

 

My truck rides a little stiffer because in addition to the RCX 2" block, I have Firestone RideRite Air Bags on the rear and I have to keep 5 psi in them...it gives me more rake, which is OK by me as I like the rake look. When I am towing, I put about 20# of air in them, so I don't get that nose high look. With the air bags, towing is rock steady.

Edited by bcbz71
BowtieTJ Enthusiast

BowtieTJ

Posted
Posted

 

You're not going to notice any ride difference with the 1" taller block in the rear. The shocks have plenty of travel and you are not altering the spring pack so the only difference you will notice is 7/8" more rake than you have now. Remember to put the fat end of the block to the rear...it's tapered.

 

My truck rides a little stiffer because in addition to the RCX 2" block, I have Firestone RideRite Air Bags on the rear and I have to keep 5 psi in them...it gives me more rake, which is OK by me as I like the rake look. When I am towing, I put about 20# of air in them, so I don't get that nose high look. With the air bags, towing is rock steady.

Awesome. Yea I'm a 1" high in the front right now and when I put a trailer load on her she snobs a little more. So I'm thinking with a 1-3/4" block in the back it will help that. Thanks for the help!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

neil54 Enthusiast

neil54

Posted
Posted

Will 295 60 20 Toyo AT2 Extreme fit on a 15' all terrain with stock 20" AT rims and a 2.5 RC level?

bwilloby46 Enthusiast

bwilloby46

Posted
Posted

Will 295 60 20 Toyo AT2 Extreme fit on a 15' all terrain with stock 20" AT rims and a 2.5 RC level?

I'm running that exact tire on a 14 high country with stock rims and a RC/Bilstein custom 2.5" level. Only barely rubbed the inner fender carpet at full lock in reverse by about 1/8" when I first put them on 3 months ago. No rubbing now. See pic below.

 

Know another guy on here with same tire and 2.5" TGC front level on 14 GMC with stock rims. No rubbing at all.

 

Definitely recommend those tires. They are pretty badass. Check out Amazon before you buy local, got set of 4 shipped to my house for under $1450. Local shops quoted me over $2100 for same tire. Happy shopping!

 

455e55e253c83e865049c278f0b6df80.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • StingerZ16
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By StingerZ16 · Posted

      I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 
    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its possible you never had the joy of the crappy boat launches we tend to have around here or really some of them are just grades down to the river if its a river scenario and the conditions change all the time with the river levels and silt deposits. Some of the lakes we went to years ago, there was no such thing as a cement pad that went down into the water that the trailer stayed on, it was gravel maybe up to the water line and then duck crap much beyond that so sinking the boat tires into mud. Of course some of the more established lakes had a cement bar type boat ramp but sometimes it was covered in green slime closer and certainly within the water and a two wheel drive had all sorts of fun if one had to touch that slime with the rear tires.    A neighbor of mine had made a comment years back with his chev truck that was probably about the same year as yours but a half ton extended cab 4x4 and he a a fiberglass boat with an inboard so it wasn't a feather weight and he had gone out to one of the large popular lakes in the area and don't ask me how this happened but he was in two wheel drive as he figured he didn't require four wheel drive for that boat ramp and somehow upon pulling the boat out he twisted one of his drive axles. I suspect it must have spun and then grabbed on the cement ramp and shocked it to the degree of twisting it. He would have had the standard 8.5 or whatever it was axle housing as the 9.5 ring gear like my truck has also has larger drive axles as far as I know. Anyway he was feeling a vibration driving home and had it checked out and a shop found that the tire/hub was wobbling because of the axle had twisted so in went a new drive axle. After that bad experience he said he made sure to put it into four wheel drive to lower the stress on the rear axle. Of course that is where an HD truck can handle a lot more stress and no doubt these newer half tons with their larger ring gears probably have larger drive axles as well to match vs back in the day. 
    • asilverblazer
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Desirable - as in does someone WANT one, aspire to have one. Could reasonably buy any car they want and CHOOSE these instead.    I didn't watch the video, why did they win?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...