Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
Thinking about leveling with Kings. I prefer the look in the first picture. 2" in front and 1" blocks in the rear. Going to try 285/55r22 - with whatever trimming is necessary. maybe wheel spacers too. I know the internet will hate this idea, but from what I've seen this sort of combo looks incredible. 
 
Super nice looking truck, in both configurations. Like this look the best, not too lifted or extreme. Good Taste In execution IMHO.
 
I'll take a look at CST.
 


Thank you. I’ve heard great things about King coilovers too. I only have experience with CST Suspension system which currently gives an amazing better than stock ride. Btw, I’d recommend whom ever you do go with to “please” get their expert advice as to their recommendations. Going with coilovers is completely unmatched in ride quality. CST guided me through the whole process as I’m sure King will do the same. Good luck and please do keep us updated. Have a great Christmas!
  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

pronstar Enthusiast

pronstar

Posted
Posted
Thinking about leveling with Kings.

 

 

Any truck I’ll ever own, will have King’s.

 

They ain’t cheap, so it really depends on your priorities.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  • Like 1
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
 
Any truck I’ll ever own, will have King’s.
 
They ain’t cheap, so it really depends on your priorities.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


You have rear King Shocks, and if so what’s the model info and your honest opinion on ride quality?
pronstar Enthusiast

pronstar

Posted
Posted

 

You have rear King Shocks, and if so what’s the model info and your honest opinion on ride quality?

 

 

I believe the King PN is 25001-154

The invoice from my buddy’s shop just says KINGREAR LOL

 

This is my first Chevy truck.

I usually opt for custom valving but was reco’d to try the stock valving first.

I also wanted Deaver’s, but was reco’d to try the stock leafs first.

 

I won’t be making any changes to this setup.

 

Ride quality is amazing.

There’s a lot of compliance, then they firm-up as they compress for good bottom-out resistance.

Rebound is very controlled, no pogo-effect off-road.

 

I don’t slow down for things like speed bumps...no need.

 

I stepped down to a 1500 so I didn’t have to spend huge money getting a good ride out of another 3/4 ton truck.

 

Very happy with the ride quality.

Especially considering I have E Rated Nitto MT tires.

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  • Like 1
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
 
 
I believe the King PN is 25001-154
The invoice from my buddy’s shop just says KINGREAR LOL
 
This is my first Chevy truck.
I usually opt for custom valving but was reco’d to try the stock valving first.
I also wanted Deaver’s, but was reco’d to try the stock leafs first.
 
I won’t be making any changes to this setup.
 
Ride quality is amazing.
There’s a lot of compliance, then they firm-up as they compress for good bottom-out resistance.
Rebound is very controlled, no pogo-effect off-road.
 
I don’t slow down for things like speed bumps...no need.
 
I stepped down to a 1500 so I didn’t have to spend huge money getting a good ride out of another 3/4 ton truck.
 
Very happy with the ride quality.
Especially considering I have E Rated Nitto MT tires.
 
 
 
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


You did good getting into the 1500 and appreciate someone that doesn’t settle. I had the DMax, spend huge amount trying to get it smoother, finally after 1 1/2 yrs I ditched it for my 18 SLT 6.2, Z71 CC, loving it! I got $54K as trade in on that 16 LTZ Z71 diesel lol. I’m very happy with my setup too. My neighbor bought same truck as me for his son but with a 5.3. He wants to upgrade the suspension so he’s comfortable in it lol.
pronstar Enthusiast

pronstar

Posted
Posted


You did good getting into the 1500 and appreciate someone that doesn’t settle. I had the DMax, spend huge amount trying to get it smoother, finally after 1 1/2 yrs I ditched it for my 18 SLT 6.2, Z71 CC, loving it! I got $54K as trade in on that 16 LTZ Z71 diesel lol. I’m very happy with my setup too. My neighbor bought same truck as me for his son but with a 5.3. He wants to upgrade the suspension so he’s comfortable in it lol.



My 3/4 ton Ram CTD rode extremely well. And was flat awesome off-road. Carli Suspension knows how to dial those trucks in.

But even with a good guy discount, it was still pretty pricey.
But I’d do it again in a heartbeat if I had a need for a heavier-duty truck

When I was young, I put my money into engine mods.
As I got older, I put all my money into suspension. I won’t settle for a crappy ride.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 1
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted



My 3/4 ton Ram CTD rode extremely well. And was flat awesome off-road. Carli Suspension knows how to dial those trucks in.

But even with a good guy discount, it was still pretty pricey.
But I’d do it again in a heartbeat if I had a need for a heavier-duty truck

When I was young, I put my money into engine mods.
As I got older, I put all my money into suspension. I won’t settle for a crappy ride.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Absolutely, you get what you pay for. Have a kickass Christmas!
  • Like 1
kennerz Enthusiast

kennerz

Posted
Posted
18 hours ago, pronstar said:

 

Any truck I’ll ever own, will have King’s.

 

They ain’t cheap, so it really depends on your priorities.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I plan on keeping the truck till the wheels fall off & getting another car (hopefully a mid-life crisis type car). Just with the overall cost of the truck to begin with and factoring the cost over years to come vs enjoying they way it drives makes it potentially worth it. On the vehicles and atv's I've had the best suspension I could afford put on and tuned and it always transforms the vehicle into something special and much more enjoyable & safer to ride/drive.

 

The initial cost of kings hurts but, I have not heard one complaint which is rare. People tend to spend way more on lifts , that always seem to trade off handling and suspension.

 

  • Like 2
03msc Enthusiast

03msc

Posted
Posted

OK, OK...so...after reading several pages of this to get 'caught up' since I hadn't been on here in a few weeks, just a couple of questions for clarification purposes...

 

2015 Silverado CC Z71 with stock 18's (and stock Goodyears for now)

 

1) I have a 2.5" Motofab level on mine (spacer on top of the front). That (and an alignment) was all that was done. Is that all that should have been done or is something else needed?  I'm not asking could other stuff be done (I know that answer is yes) but just should there have been or am I good?  

 

2) Looking at new tires soon. Stocks are the 265/65r18, of course.  What is the largest I could go (keeping stock wheels) with no rubbing issues?  275/70? 285/65? 285/75?  Just curious. Been strongly looking at the Toyo Open County A/T IIs but I've also eyed some of the Nittos.  Mostly looking for an A/T type and not a mud tire.  

 

3) When you go up in tire size (well, change it at all, either way) do you just have the dealer recalibrate the speedo or do it some other way (tuner?)? I know I could ignore it but I'd like it correct so I'm just wondering what most do... 

 

TNSmokee Enthusiast

TNSmokee

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm with 03msc, trying to catch up after a week or so. I had to take a double look to make sure I was in the right thread, 2014+ Leveling Kits. There for a minute I thought I was in the Suspension Lift thread. Merry Christmas!!

Edited by TNSmokee
typo
  • Like 1
jimmyboy8301 Senior Enthusiast

jimmyboy8301

Posted
Posted
I'm with 03msc, trying to catch up after a week or so. I had to take a double look to make sure I was in the right thread, 2014+ Leveling Kits. There for a minute I thought I was in the Suspension Lift thread. Merry Christmas!!

LOL


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted

Ok guys. First post ever. I have read about 85% of this topic. I just installed the readylift 2.25 kit 66-3086 (front only - spacers and UCA)

 

I have the OEM rally 22's installed right now with 285 45 R22s.  The edge of the wheel as well as the tire rubs ever so slightly on the passenger side UCA at full lock to the left.  Driver side zero rub. There is about .25" gap between the tire and the UCA at full lock to the right on Driver side. The only thing I can think of is a shitty alignment. When the wheel is straight, it pulls to the left. Unfortunately I had the dealer do it because I just don't have the time right now. They "did" an alignment... I haven't read anywhere of wheel contact on the control arm with OEM wheels. I am taking it back so they correct it. Really frustrating. I purposely did not get different wheels or tires yet because I was afraid of getting the rub. The 1/2" wheel spacer would solve it but in my opinion that is hack. Even if I did the kit myself the dealer would still need to align it.

 

What do you all think? Truck only has 26,000 on it, so its unlikely the lower CA or tie rod ends are worn..

 

3e0a730416cc3f2d2e90f80b56951384.jpg73917ab4ffe88d38fa8079dae1653dfe.jpg

MBSierra17 Enthusiast

MBSierra17

Posted
Posted

My bilstein 5100s at max height rubbed uca as well. The stock offset doesn't seem to like leveled trucks. You've actually gone with wider tires than I had too, although with stock 20's I only had tire rub. 

 

Not sure what impact the readylift uca has on your situation. 

  • Like 1
acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted

Yeah. It is odd though. Have not read of rubbing on the UCA with this kit and oem offset wheels. The tires arenoem as well. I guess I will see what the re-alignment does. Seems the toe needs to be adjusted. I really do not want to buy aftermarket wheels. I don't like the fake bolts and rivets... lol I really want the OEM replica all terrains but those are +27mm. Mine are +24mm AND are a 22 vs a 20

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 803 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • JakeD
      Tire fitment

      By JakeD · Posted

      Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • davester
      Tire fitment

      By davester · Posted

      I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...