Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

bhales Enthusiast

bhales

Posted
Posted

2 inch RC Level front nothing changed in the rear and 285/60R20 Ridge Grappler

before and after 

 

before.jpg

after1.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Sierra Jon Enthusiast

Sierra Jon

Posted
Posted
Guys
 
I’ve read every single post in this thread, but I’m simply confused on what I need to do for my truck. I have a bone stock 2018 Sierra 1500 Denali Ultimate 4wd (22” wheels). I’m simply trying to raise the front of my truck up to level with the rear. I plan to keep the same stock wheels and tires. Can someone tell me what I need to get?
 
Thanks for the help. I’m not knowledgeable about vehicles and I need some help deciphering all the info I’ve been reading.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
a42764225ab0a937139cef24caaceacf.jpg
You end up pulling the trigger on a level yet? I'm in the same boat now.
Slick66 Enthusiast

Slick66

Posted
Posted

I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 4WD that I had a locally manufactured 2.5 inch kit installed by a reputable shop which included 2” blocks in the rear. I love the new stance of the truck but now it has a vibration felt in the floorboard of the truck. Nothing through the steering. Any suggestions?

theJman Enthusiast

theJman

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, Slick66 said:

I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 4WD that I had a locally manufactured 2.5 inch kit installed by a reputable shop which included 2” blocks in the rear. I love the new stance of the truck but now it has a vibration felt in the floorboard of the truck. Nothing through the steering. Any suggestions?

 

What did the shop say about it?  That's the first place I would go.

acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted
 
What did the shop say about it?  That's the first place I would go.
Are the rear blocks tapered? If they are straight that could be a possible source of the vibration since you are changing the pinion angle. I am on the fence with doing an add a leaf or a +1" tapered block from readylift myself.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted
 
What did the shop say about it?  That's the first place I would go.
Sorry didn't mean to quote yours.***

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

SSMUFF Enthusiast

SSMUFF

Posted
Posted
On 1/23/2019 at 10:53 AM, bhales said:

2 inch RC Level front nothing changed in the rear and 285/60R20 Ridge Grappler

before and after 

 

before.jpg

after1.jpg

Nice truck (twin).  You say you did the 2" up front only but in your signature you mention the 2.5.  Did you do the full RC 2.5 kit or did you do just the less expensive option and lift the front only? 

Slick66 Enthusiast

Slick66

Posted
Posted

I did go back to the shop and discuss it with the owner. He just blamed it on the change in pinion angle and stated that the new angle should seat itself after about 500 miles. He also stated that he had installed this kit in many other trucks with no issue. 

Slick66 Enthusiast

Slick66

Posted
Posted

I am not sure if the rear blocks are tapered or not. They were used rear blocks from another truck that he had performed a lift on. I think that I am going to remove them and reinstall the stock blocks just to see if the vibration goes away. 

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
I am not sure if the rear blocks are tapered or not. They were used rear blocks from another truck that he had performed a lift on. I think that I am going to remove them and reinstall the stock blocks just to see if the vibration goes away. 


You can get tapered blocks from just about anyone. Look to see if if the rear blocks have a slight angle, looking from rear to front your rear blocks should have a slight angle downwards towards the front of your truck. Not having the right blocks will definitely give you vibrations and it’s an easy cheap fix.


Sent from above
Slick66 Enthusiast

Slick66

Posted
Posted

Thank you. I will definitely check that out. Any idea how much of taper the blocks should be? I read on another post something about 2 degrees. 

acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted
Thank you. I will definitely check that out. Any idea how much of taper the blocks should be? I read on another post something about 2 degrees. 
Pinion angles don't "seat themselves". That's just them trying to say they did nothing wrong. The block kit i plan to buy that I would recommend is in the pic. I used ready lift blocks and u bolts on my old Silverado with zero issue.
I would strongly recommend replacing the u bolts if you go with another kit as they have a tendency to stretch when they are torqued. One benefit to the ready lift u bolts is they utilize fine thread pitch, where the oem is coarse. The fine thread pitch has more mechanical advantage when torqued and will not come loose. The oem u bolts are prone to loosening (happened to me when i bought my truck, and numerous others on posts i have read). Good luck. 22de9080d6d8173928309dd27a89d8f1.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
Thank you. I will definitely check that out. Any idea how much of taper the blocks should be? I read on another post something about 2 degrees. 


It’s going to be more of a universal slope but most of all you should know it’s all going to be worked out. As soon as you can, take a side pic of your rear blocks. Where are you located?


Sent from above
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
I am located in Northern Florida. 


Look for 4wheelparts, they’ll be available to help you. Call them and ask to speak with the manager, tell him you were told to contact them and get assistance with an issue. Don’t tell them where you had it done, just tell the manager your issues. IM me if you need assistance.


Sent from above

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...