2014+ Leveling Kits

[gorskimc]

I recently upgraded from my 2017 Sierra 1500 SLT to a 2019 Sierra 1500 SLT.  So of course I did my usual upgrades: window tint, spray-in bedliner, 2.5" level kit and Fuel Beast 20" wheels with 305/55R20 rubber.  I did the level kit(s) over the weekend and put the new wheels and tires on.  I think it looks much better now.  I just left Belle Tire getting the front end re-aligned, so I should be good to go.  I do have a slight tire rub at full lock at the rear of the wheel well, so I'll have to trim back the plastic/carpet in that area.  Other than that, it looks great.  The level kit was a Motofab 2.5" in the front, and a Motofab 1" in the rear.  For some reason, the 1" in the rear gave me a lot more than that though.  

 

Prior to the leveling kits, my front height (ground to bottom of fender flare) was 36.875" and my rear height was 38".50".  After the leveling kit, my front height is now 39.50 (increase of 2.625") and the rear height is 40.75" (increase of 2.25")  

[gorskimc]

On 5/29/2019 at 2:57 PM, All Terrain said:

Does anybody know what the differences are between a top mount and bottom mount spacer to level?

 

The top mounts seem to be more expensive and may require cutting the length of the top shocks bolts from what I can tell, so are there any positives to going with the more expensive top mounts?

I've always used top mounted spacers.  The bottom mounts look a bit sketchy in my view.  The top mounts use their own studs (the stock studs get buried in the spacer) so I've never had to cut the stock studs - but then I've always used a 2 1/2" kit.  I guess a thinner spacer may cause the studs to protrude through the top of the spacer, and require you to cut them off.  I think that the top mount is the way to go, even if it costs a few bucks more.

['17 Sierra]

On 6/24/2019 at 7:18 AM, gorskimc said:

I recently upgraded from my 2017 Sierra 1500 SLT to a 2019 Sierra 1500 SLT.  So of course I did my usual upgrades: window tint, spray-in bedliner, 2.5" level kit and Fuel Beast 20" wheels with 305/55R20 rubber.  I did the level kit(s) over the weekend and put the new wheels and tires on.  I think it looks much better now.  I just left Belle Tire getting the front end re-aligned, so I should be good to go.  I do have a slight tire rub at full lock at the rear of the wheel well, so I'll have to trim back the plastic/carpet in that area.  Other than that, it looks great.  The level kit was a Motofab 2.5" in the front, and a Motofab 1" in the rear.  For some reason, the 1" in the rear gave me a lot more than that though.  

 

Prior to the leveling kits, my front height (ground to bottom of fender flare) was 36.875" and my rear height was 38".50".  After the leveling kit, my front height is now 39.50 (increase of 2.625") and the rear height is 40.75" (increase of 2.25")  

What did you do with your stock wheels? Looks great, BTW.

[gorskimc]

My Dad put my wheels and tires on his 17’ Silverado. He had plain Jane wheels on it before. 

[daveturton]

So I’ve read through quite a bit of this thread, even as long as it is. Can anyone be a little more specific on this question?

 

I have a 17 Silverado 4wd that I want to level (2”) and put 285/55/20’s all terrain tires. What kind of mileage drop am I looking at if I get between 18-22 on hwy currently?

 

Also, what kind of ride change should I expect?

[Korazu]

21 minutes ago, daveturton said:

So I’ve read through quite a bit of this thread, even as long as it is. Can anyone be a little more specific on this question?

 

I have a 17 Silverado 4wd that I want to level (2”) and put 285/55/20’s all terrain tires. What kind of mileage drop am I looking at if I get between 18-22 on hwy currently?

 

Also, what kind of ride change should I expect?

Best answer, it depends. There's a lot of variables in play, especially the type of tread on the all-terrain tires, what ply and how heavy they are. I had 305/55/20's on a RC leveling kit and had 285/55/20's on Bilstein adjustable shocks set at max level and got about 15/18 city/hwy and now I have a 5" RC bracket suspension lift on the 285/55/20's. You also have to consider what type of driver you are, i.e. feather the throttle or drive it like you stole it. I am in-between as there are times when I want to hear the engine/exhaust roar like a lion or having to just get the heck out of the way of idiot drivers.  All-in-all, I would say just a few mpg, more if you tow a lot also. The ride will get a little stiffer as you're changing the geometry of the suspension, to where it doesn't have as much room to move and take the brunt of the bumps and holes.  I hope it helps and good luck on your decision.

[daveturton]

Thanks for the input, much appreciated. I’m just hoping for an idea. Seems like you said, too many variables. 

[daveturton]

Is there a reason that I would use 10 ply tires versus a lesser ply in a situation like this? I don’t plan on pulling any 9000 pound trailer or doing any heavy off road trail driving. I am more going for the look then anything else. He also mentioned that the ride would be better with this option rather than just spacers.

 

I’ve just been stuck before at an event when I owned a 2wd and I just don’t want to be caught in that situation again. My local tire guy suggested the Bilstein 5100 series. I pasted a link below. Not sure if that’s exactly what he was referring to though. I’ve seen people in this thread refer to this brand. 

 

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/1?lsf=seller:1909981,store:5730735552961550659&prds=pid:1092844213413993597,oid:3838965920338720464&q=bilstein+5100+leveling+kit&hl=en-us&ei=rn4XXeetHLjO0PEPxcCV8Ag&lsft=gclid:CjwKCAjwmNzoBRBOEiwAr2V27ZI1BhL8x-DG8LwCDFxiQk2eG6Gkn3JuARxpFSDFIgmtuq0s8R_TexoCnDMQAvD_BwE

[DENALIHD66]

On 6/23/2019 at 7:43 PM, DENALIHD66 said:

Added Bilstein 5100s on highest setting and Toyo Open Country AT 2 at 295/55/20.  Ride is NIGHT AND DAY different from the OEM "Max trailering" shocks.  They were basically shot at only 42,000 miles.  Tires rub the sway bar on BOTH sides when moving forward... rubbing seems to begin before full lock so I've had to adjust my driving habits just a bit.

 

It makes me wonder if 285/60/20 would fit without rubbing?   

Finally got around to posting pictures.  So far I love the setup.  Little bit of tire hum but it doesn't bother me at all.  Just have to watch with the tight turns mostly associated with maneuvering around cramped parking lots.  I have the Bilsteins set on the highest setting and the suspension angles look very healthy still.

 

 

Before:a

 

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Edited June 30, 2019 by DENALIHD66

[3vol]

Motofab 2in. Lower strut spacer installed today. 

Edited July 1, 2019 by 3vol

[pwgsx]

On 6/30/2019 at 7:16 PM, 3vol said:

Motofab 2in. Lower strut spacer installed today. 

Thats what I got and the ride is so rough.  Getting some Fox coil overs very soon and the Ready Lift UC.

[calane29]

On 4/18/2019 at 1:40 PM, pewterliftedz said:

 

Edited July 7, 2019 by calane29

[calane29]

You’d be surprised as to how many people actually put out misleading wrong information out there on leveling and tire size especially 15 1/2 - 18’s. In the past, I’ve called out a bunch of BS’ers claiming their tire larger sizes on these model years didn’t rub when leveled even some saying it didn’t rub cause their tires were already on before the level, lmao! And then find them down the road on another thread talking about their rubbing issues.
 
People: Leveling WILL cause rubbing issues on years 15 1/2 - 18’s GM 1500’s running 20” wheels when adding anything bigger than stock size tires. Another thing, leveling will cause your truck to ride rougher than stock especially adding E rated tires which is common on larger tires like 285/60/20’s. You’ll also need to buy new offset wheels in order to get the rubbing to stop and buying new uca’s doesn’t guarantee to stop the rubbing which is why I jumped on the “much smoother than leveling” Badass CST 4.5” lift.
 
When you consider the cost that goes into the leveling parts, wheels, shocks/struts and labor, it’s a no brainer!
 
You should never “ever” go cheap on your suspension, it’s your vehicles foundation.
 
Most trucks that are traded in are traded in due to bad riding trucks caused by people that want the look but don’t have a quality suspension, all lifts are not equal, you get what you pay for. If you’re on s budget? Save until you can afford to do it right cause then you’ll actually not only enjoy looking at your truck but you’ll love driving it too and not need a throw up bag and Advil for the ride along
 
 
 
 
 
Sent from above
 
 
 
 

So looking at the CST 4.5” Stage 1, I see it doesn’t come with new shocks. If I were to go this route, could I throw Bilstein 5100s on with this kit? Also, it appears that these brackets mount up to the frame where the UCAs and LCA go, then the CAs attach to the brackets. Am I looking at that correctly? I’m new to this stuff so I’m tryin to learn/make sure I’m not going to cause any issues to the truck.


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[calane29]

Finally got around to posting pictures.  So far I love the setup.  Little bit of tire hum but it doesn't bother me at all.  Just have to watch with the tight turns mostly associated with maneuvering around cramped parking lots.  I have the Bilsteins set on the highest setting and the suspension angles look very healthy still.
 
 
Before:a

 
After:

 
 
 
Before:

 
 
After:

Love your set up! Did you add wheel spacers? It looks pretty dang close to level, is there any rake? Ideally this is what I’d like to do instead of a complete lift


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[DENALIHD66]

9 hours ago, calane29 said:

Love your set up! Did you add wheel spacers? It looks pretty dang close to level, is there any rake? Ideally this is what I’d like to do instead of a complete lift


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No wheel spacers.  Very happy with the setup.  Still slight rake for hauling which I like.