Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I do not know the number but it starts with how much you lower it. Then that determines the air bag kit that works. My kit is mounted to top of leaf and is a thinner bag, it is said for a 6" or more drop. So I have the 1" matching spacer under it. Now it thinks it is a 6" and allows the bag in spec allowing more travel and option to run on lowest air.
I also pull a dual axle trailer with a 3200lb car in it.
If I remember right the kit is mcgaughy kit.
You will have no issues at all with what you have.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Took it to the dealer yesterday to start a warranty claim on my flaky chrome wheels. Has been approved and I’ll be getting 4 new wheels.

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Dropped it off at the shop today. Has been getting neglected for a few weeks, getting an oil change and a new radiator since the OEM started leaking. Also need a new alternator since there’s a bearing going out in it and won’t produce as much power. Anyone done an upgraded alternator? Wondering how much it would cost to upgrade from th stock 150 to like 200 or so amps since I want a second battery for camping


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
Anybody with a k2xx gonna try? [emoji23] [mention=159655]pgamboa[/mention]
next mod?
 
 

Easy! Just swap the reverse and drive wire [emoji2958]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted
4 hours ago, pgamboa said:


Easy! Just swap the reverse and drive wire emoji2958.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just got done trying this and didn't work.  Can you post a how - to video?

Posted
On 9/13/2019 at 1:14 PM, Waterfowler41 said:

Dropped my diff like its hot... used the supreme suspension kit. The hardware was useless as it was 2” too short. 1/2” spacers hopefully resolved a low speed vibration i was having.

 

7ddc7d19a09342dd73ca8974aa43f032.jpge09055f5ff277301e83fcf842634a0d6.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Watched your video and read your thread. Got my Eibach kit in and am going to replace my RC 2 1/2 kit with it. should I be worried? Also, with the diff drop, is there any cross member trimming? Seem to remember watching a video of the RC 3.5" kit install with diff drop and you had to trim the cross member.

Posted
Watched your video and read your thread. Got my Eibach kit in and am going to replace my RC 2 1/2 kit with it. should I be worried? Also, with the diff drop, is there any cross member trimming? Seem to remember watching a video of the RC 3.5" kit install with diff drop and you had to trim the cross member.


No trimming but make sure you talk to supreme before ordering. I sent them my video on their kit and they said they will be updating the hardware provided.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

What did I do to my K2 today? Bounced it off of a rock... I really need to get a little more ground clearance.

12b261dd4591bde726f7353b58fd57dc.jpg4f14557b87674750e60cf9cc81a87bb6.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Not actually today but I recently installed a set of Mercury Audio components (upper end company out of Thailand and more info on my build thread below). BTW, I found that since I already had my door deadening done I didn't have to remove the door panel entirely rather I was able to change them in short time by just popping off/propping open the door panel at the bottom (I had to remove all of the screws but I did not have to disconnect any wires/cables etc). :cool:

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=7137&d=15687

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=7134&d=15687

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=7135&d=15687

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=7136&d=15687

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=7138&d=15687

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=7139&d=15687

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted
15 minutes ago, Marv88 said:

Not actually today but I recently installed a set of Mercury Audio components (upper end company out of Thailand and more info on my build thread below). BTW, I found that since I already had my door deadening done I didn't have to remove the door panel entirely rather I was able to change them in short time by just popping off/propping open the door panel at the bottom (I had to remove all of the screws but I did not have to disconnect any wires/cables etc). :cool:

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=7137&d=15687

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=7134&d=15687

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=7135&d=15687

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=7136&d=15687

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=7138&d=15687

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=7139&d=15687

 

 

How much do they run $$?

Posted
21 minutes ago, Frankielozano214 said:

How much do they run $$?

Surprisingly they are about $800.00 usd overseas but there is a guy in the states who sells them for under $500.00. 

Posted
23 minutes ago, Marv88 said:

Surprisingly they are about $800.00 usd overseas but there is a guy in the states who sells them for under $500.00. 

? I think I rather spend 500$ on my seat swap and console swap ? that to expensive for me 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Congratulations Isttype, on your gmc. Really like my 2024 2500hd sle doublecab now with 85,500 miles.  I checked the oil today at 4800 miles since last oil change and barely reading on the stick.  I don't care if GM says it's Acceptable adding a quart every 2000 miles because that is 100% BS, It is not a 1966 Harley Shovelhead! Sounds like it's setting up a future failure like I had with my 1500 6.2l. Other than oil consumption problems, I really like the 6.6l gas and 10 speed is really nice.  Towed a light 4000 pound trailer last week and averaged 14 mpg.  I was pretty impressive that a 7300 pound gas truck did 14mpg towing, Later-
    • Long Term Cold Cycle Limited Testing   Back to the 1990's and XOM's million mile test. Since then there have been others and there will be more. Schaeffer's, AMSOIL to name two. Of these Schaeffer's is the stand alone which I will explain in a bit later.    http://papers.sae.org/600190/:   http://papers.sae.org/850215/:   Up to 75% of  engine wear occurs on cold starts. These two links (above) provide the technical reasons for engine wear. In a nut shell, and by a large margin, cylinder wear is what takes out most motors and even with a pre-oiling system that part of the engine is dry enough on cold starts and cold warm up to pierce Stribeck.   So when you put a motor, or a car, on a dyno for a million miles stopping only for oil changes, (yes fuel is uninterrupted) or break down maintenance, you are depriving the test of the most important part of it's wear cycle. Yes a million is then a pretty easy walk even for a mineral oil under those conditions.    How about cleanliness during the long test cycles? Same thing. Varnishes that stick rings and insulate parts are laid down by repetitive 'heat cycles'. It's the cool down the precipitates the varnishes. These long runs also hinder acidic attack caused by cold start richness and less than optimal cold start ring sealing. They hinder water formation and enhance breathing of the crankcase; the petri dish of acid formation, the first step in sludge formation, amalgamation and precipitation. These motors are also monitored and controlled for water and oil temperatures to within the "normal operating range".      https://www.swri.org/sites/default/files/sequence-iiih-test.pdf Note the test sequence in some boutique oils literature for testing, API IIIH, is not the standard used for the ILSAC G7 testing. Does that mean it is irrelevant? No, not as used. As used as a 'visual guide' it makes it's point. The G7 weighted piston deposit minimum is lower.      Back to Schaeffer's. That was a cyclical test of an engine in fleet service and not a dyno mule and if you saw the video it was not mirror clean but wear was low.    There are oils like BioSyn and other 'Renewable" source oils that taught cleanliness and have proven themselves in fleet testing. Havoline an other example.    The newest ILSAC G-7 test prioritize cleanliness, LSPI mitigation and fuel economy OVER WEAR. In comparison Porsche C30 Specification Verses ILSAC G-7 Specification below:      Some will balk that this graph isn't apples to apples and I will challenge that in that this graph represent the SPECIFICATION and not the any One Oil Performance.   It is absolutely possible to minimize wear, maximize cleanliness and mitigate LSPI etc., It just isn't cheap and currently I see none that are not walking toward profit over performance.     
    • I don't think you will need a split, separate product, etc., the OBD port should be able to deliver everything you need. Since your device would be plugged into it all the time, it wouldn't miss anything.    Hardware in this case will be the easiest part of your project - ELM 327 devices will already deliver all the data you need. Reporting/software is where your advantage/marketability is.
    • I do too. I’ll never be stuck again 😂
    • It has happened to me a few times. I carry a jumpstart-tire inflator with me.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...