Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Back pressure valve is at the rear of the exhaust system, right in front of the rear passenger wheel. The other cause of no start has been said to be too much grease on the contacts in the starter from what one members dealer found. They said over time the grease will wear down and the issue would go away.

Posted

-4 this morning and used the remote start. New starter worked right away. :driving:

Posted

Had it towed in to the shop (hooray for OnStar), and they told me that it was an Ignition Control Relay which had to be ordered in from Montreal. In the meantime my truck was left in the lot in -20 and below, and it started right up for them. They got it in the shop and replaced the ICR. They kept it for another day and left it outside so they could test it with a cold start to determine if they needed to replace the starter/battery.

 

Truck started right up. We're now 3 days into having a new truck with no issues. I'll report back if it happens again or if there are any further issues.

 

In short, get them to replace the Ignition Control Relay.

  • 7 years later...
Posted

It’s not just a cold weather thing - 73 degrees in Columbus Ohio at a gas station. When I got back in the truck and tried to start it - got a click then everything went dark.  No instruments, no radio, FOD would not remote start, lock, or unlock doors - nothing.  Had two people try to help me with jumper cables - no luck.  Being Sunday my options were a wrecker or call my friend the mechanic.  I called my friend first and he recommended looking for loose connections on some plate mounted above and to the side of the battery.  There was this blue clip which had two separate bundles of wires towards the back of this terminal or bus thing mounted over the battery.  On side of that blue clip had some play in it and as I moved it side to side I could feel in sliding over the male side of this thing.  I hit the lock button on FOD and lights flashed - the truck started and has started about 5 times in my driveway since then.  Trying to figure it out, I started searching the internet and discovered recalls on my 2014 (bought it new in 2014) and see 15 recalls ranging from seat belts, loss of brakes and steering, seat belts, air bags.  Why haven’t they fixed these issues at service intervals?  I tried to tell them about no brakes and how I almost hit a car in front of me and close call rolling off a cliff  with no brakes.  What the heck GM?  Are you guys trying to make a killing by cutting corners??  Now I know not to by an American made truck that’s made in Mexico 

Posted

Fun fact, tons of us are rolling around with open recalls because you can't even get those done with parts that are not available.

 

Poor dealership service if they don't notify you about recalls that could be done, it's also partly your job as a vehicle owner to maybe inquire about said recalls. Usually best to print those out so they know what you're talking about.

 

Can't really blame it all on GM here, it's the dealerships fault as well. Plus you have a "modded" vehicle per your other post, maybe that is why they don't do some of the things but who knows.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
22 hours ago, CamGTP said:

Can't really blame it all on GM here, it's the dealerships fault as well. Plus you have a "modded" vehicle per your other post, maybe that is why they don't do some of the things but who knows.

Yep, I regularly check the myChevrolet app to check for anything new ... I always get this, meaning any old recalls have already been rectified and there is nothing new, as well.
Not sure why it came up as an LD but it is what it is.


IMG_0496.jpg

Edited by MikeBMW
Posted

Well, some dealers, cough cough, Honda/Toyota, cough..*not covid* will notified you via mail multiple times regarding the recall. If it's a recall that could lead to death, they will keep mailing notice and keep CALLING you as well. They won't stop until you declined or it's been remedy. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...