issue Humming/Whining noise between 40 and 50 MPH?

Hansol1977 · January 21, 2015

I am going to try the auto vs 2 wd. My 2014 5.3 with 3.42 gears is in the shop for the second time with howling diff. They admitted the first time the back lash was set wrong. Started howling again shortly after. Does anyone know the proper way to fix a diff? Should axels gears and bearing all be replaced?

pm26 · January 22, 2015

I am going to try the auto vs 2 wd. My 2014 5.3 with 3.42 gears is in the shop for the second time with howling diff. They admitted the first time the back lash was set wrong. Started howling again shortly after. Does anyone know the proper way to fix a diff? Should axels gears and bearing all be replaced?

In order to have a properly performing differential, the following parameters must be adjusted properly:

1. ring and pinion gear backlash

2. ring and pinion gear tooth contact pattern

3. pinion shaft bearing preload must be correct, which means properly torqued pinion shaft nut to properly collapse the spacer inside

4. differential housing but be machined correctly to provide proper geometric relationship between meshing gears.

5. differential gears and bearings must be of sufficient quality with proper hardening and tight machining tolerances.

6. differential bearings as well as axle bearings must be installed correctly.

7. proper quantity of good quality differential lube must be provided

8. axle shafts must be of good quality, properly hardened and straight.

Failing in any of the above areas leads to problematic differentials.

http://www.differentials.com/technical-help/diagnosing-differential-problems

Driveline, Axle, Ring and Pinion Gear and Differential Noise

Noises, vibrations and other irregular driving characteristics can often help diagnose a differential or driveline problem. Here are a few typical symptoms and their possible cause:

Whirring noise only while decelerating at any or all speeds is most likely caused by bad pinion bearings or loose pinion bearing preload, and almost never by bad ring and pinion gears.
A howl or whine during acceleration over a small or large speed range is usually caused by worn ring and pinion gears or improper gear set up.
Rumbling or whirring at speeds over about 20 mph can be caused by worn carrier bearings. The noise may change while turning.
Regular clunking every few feet may indicate broken ring or pinion gears.
Banging or clunking only on corners can be caused by broken spider gears, lack of sufficient positraction lubrication, or worn positraction clutches.
Rumble while turning may indicate bad wheel bearings.
A steady vibration that increases with the vehicle’s speed can be caused by worn u-joints or an out of balance driveshaft.
Clunking only when starting to move or getting on and off the gas might be loose yokes, bad u-joints or worn transfer case or transmission parts

If you have the differential cover removed, or the third member out of the vehicle, our Failure Analysis page can help you understand what may have caused your differential issue. This page contains images of gear sets with normal wear and various stages of damage and their likely causes.

Hansol1977 · January 22, 2015

In order to have a properly performing differential, the following parameters must be adjusted properly:

1. ring and pinion gear backlash

2. ring and pinion gear tooth contact pattern

3. pinion shaft bearing preload must be correct, which means properly torqued pinion shaft nut to properly collapse the spacer inside

4. differential housing but be machined correctly to provide proper geometric relationship between meshing gears.

5. differential gears and bearings must be of sufficient quality with proper hardening and tight machining tolerances.

6. differential bearings as well as axle bearings must be installed correctly.

7. proper quantity of good quality differential lube must be provided

8. axle shafts must be of good quality, properly hardened and straight.

Failing in any of the above areas leads to problematic differentials.

http://www.differentials.com/technical-help/diagnosing-differential-problems

Driveline, Axle, Ring and Pinion Gear and Differential Noise
Noises, vibrations and other irregular driving characteristics can often help diagnose a differential or driveline problem. Here are a few typical symptoms and their possible cause:

Whirring noise only while decelerating at any or all speeds is most likely caused by bad pinion bearings or loose pinion bearing preload, and almost never by bad ring and pinion gears.

A howl or whine during acceleration over a small or large speed range is usually caused by worn ring and pinion gears or improper gear set up.

Rumbling or whirring at speeds over about 20 mph can be caused by worn carrier bearings. The noise may change while turning.

Regular clunking every few feet may indicate broken ring or pinion gears.

Banging or clunking only on corners can be caused by broken spider gears, lack of sufficient positraction lubrication, or worn positraction clutches.

Rumble while turning may indicate bad wheel bearings.

A steady vibration that increases with the vehicle’s speed can be caused by worn u-joints or an out of balance driveshaft.

Clunking only when starting to move or getting on and off the gas might be loose yokes, bad u-joints or worn transfer case or transmission parts

If you have the differential cover removed, or the third member out of the vehicle, our Failure Analysis page can help you understand what may have caused your differential issue. This page contains images of gear sets with normal wear and various stages of damage and their likely causes.

Thank you pm26. The more informed we are with proper information. The better we can talk with the dealer.

Velocibiker · January 23, 2015

Same issue. Didn't think "humming" was the same as "whining" so I started a new thread. It's been 3 weeks since my last contact with the dealer. They were going to "do more research". In the mean time, I get to listen to it whine every time it rolls past that 55-60mph range.

Fixed! After two prior attemps and a lot of replaced parts (see my other thread), my whine is gone. Dealer replaced the Yoke & slip joint.

From the service invoice: Dampened Slip Yoke P#2944359 and U Joint Kit P#89059111. The service invoice also says "to modify the slip yoke with a vent hole".

pm26 · January 24, 2015

What is a "dampened slip yoke"?

jgedde · January 24, 2015

Yffreh26, on 09 Feb 2014 - 7:03 PM, said:

Recently picked up my 2014 Sierra 6.2, Max Tow and it's awesome!

One thing I noticed is that the cab is REALLy quiet compared to previous versions, except for this noise that starts softly around 35, then as you approach 50 gets louder, then goes away. It's the loudest under power, but still faintly there even while coasting at those speeds.

I have already had it back to the dealer, and they have originally thought that it was bad bearings in the rear end (3.73), so they were replaced. They told me all was good, but I don't think the tech actually drove the right speed to test the issue. It's not SUPER loud, but with the radio at a basic volume, you can hear the tone of this noise right through the radio.

Service manager and I went out in a 5.3 with 3.42 rear end, and didn't hear anything but I didn't think it was a good test given the entirely different engine, driveline and rear end that I have. There are no other 6.2 max tow's close to where I am to test this out so I am hoping someone can tell me if this is normal, or not.

Thanks!

Mine is noisy in Auto 4 wheel drive, but the noise goes away in 2 wheel drive...

John

voltinspector · April 24, 2015

My truck is a 2014 Chevy Silverado 5.3 with a 3.42 rear. I've got the same noise (noise like someone blowing air into a pop bottle). The noise comes on around 55 and goes away around 70. It growls in and out. The noise is heard under any load and if you let the gas/cruise off it temporally goes away. The noise is very annoying. The noise does not go away with 4x4 auto engaged. With the 4x4 engaged the sound changes to a more graining type noise almost grinding. The truck is at the Chevrolet dealer right now. The shop foreman took it for a drive and he did verify the noise. They are trying to compare it to a similar truck on their lot. As with everyone else’s posts this is very frustrating and has been at the Chevrolet dealer now for a couple of days….

voltinspector · April 24, 2015

Update:

Just got my truck back from the Chevy dealer. The dealer said even though they have a documented a noise from my truck there is still nothing they can do. Really? They said they drove a similar truck as mine and it sounded fairly similar to mine. Apparently, even though there are many documented cases (over 200 related posts between two subject lines on this forum alone) there are still no technical bulletins or recalls for this issue. Funny too is that I talked to the guy driving me back and forth to the dealer and he said his 2011 Z71 4x4 truck makes no noises at any speeds. How can Chevrolet claim the 2014 full size truck to be “the quietest full size pickup on the market?”

upsfeedr · July 17, 2015

Want to thank GM for making a excellent Product.. KIDDING.. i have a 2014 GMC Sierra SLT With 20k miles on it. I was getting a whining noise from the rear end that you could hear at all speeds in the cab.. So i took it to the dealer and they heard it as well, So the took apart and they said all the bearings are bad that's why i was getting that noise. Also it will take a week to fix.. Really only 20 miles on it? which sucks for me since now im stuck at home. I`m disabled and have the truck set up for me to drive.. so i cant use another car or truck.. So Thanks should of bought another truck..

starrdady · August 20, 2015

Mine makes the same noise as voltinspector has described ( blowing across a coke bottle). Mine is under light throttle ( saving fuel) and comes in around 38mph goes away at around 50mph. I did however hear it the other day for a second at 60mph. Mine is most notable in a slight turn coming on an interstate on-ramp under light to moderate throttle. Mine sometimes bucks a little while its doing it. Ive sometimes wondered if it is the torque converter shuttering as my noise sounds like it comes from the Left side of the engine bay. Gm techs and engineers have heard it but don't know where to start. Needless to say if it somehow spontaneously combusted in the parking lot at work I would probably be whistling on my walk home!.