Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Thought I’d add to the discussion since this post helped me out quite a bit.  Yes the Ranchos suck, and the 5100s are night and day difference.  2017 GMC Sierra All Terrain X Package (Z71 w exhaust).

 

Put 5100 Bilstein’s in the back - easy enough, came from the Jeep world, this was no problem.

 

Used a local shop to install the front struts, set to the max setting with a 0.5” spacer to fit a wide tire.  I was going for the most tire I could fit with the least amount of lift without using one of those level kits, and said a little prayer.  325/60/18 (33.4”x12.8”) on 18x10 w -24 offset.  Yes I had to trim, metal and plastic, but I have no rub.  Truck is aligned, no stress on balljoints or cv’s. Tires sit about 1.5” out from flare, which is not too obtrusive and give it a good stance.

 

I’ll upgrade the UCA’s next.  But more wanted to see if the above could be done!  Appreciate the thread and posts (and arguments too)!

8909F0DE-1047-490E-A7E7-7E0BEA485716.jpeg

87C86559-8BD2-4A3D-B5B5-2C1AEAEA0CB8.jpeg

ED3F0952-795B-465D-9D4F-AA9464E4A72C.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted
8 hours ago, admiral95 said:

Thought I’d add to the discussion since this post helped me out quite a bit.  Yes the Ranchos suck, and the 5100s are night and day difference.  2017 GMC Sierra All Terrain X Package (Z71 w exhaust).

 

Put 5100 Bilstein’s in the back - easy enough, came from the Jeep world, this was no problem.

 

Used a local shop to install the front struts, set to the max setting with a 0.5” spacer to fit a wide tire.  I was going for the most tire I could fit with the least amount of lift without using one of those level kits, and said a little prayer.  325/60/18 (33.4”x12.8”) on 18x10 w -24 offset.  Yes I had to trim, metal and plastic, but I have no rub.  Truck is aligned, no stress on balljoints or cv’s. Tires sit about 1.5” out from flare, which is not too obtrusive and give it a good stance.

 

I’ll upgrade the UCA’s next.  But more wanted to see if the above could be done!  Appreciate the thread and posts (and arguments too)!

 

 

 

How do you figure? You added a .5" spacer,  max bilstein lift, a -24 offset wheel and a 325 heavy tire. Yeah, you have added some stress from stock... Have you said a prayer for your steering rack and wheel bearings? 

 

Tyler

Posted
14 minutes ago, amxguy1970 said:

How do you figure? You added a .5" spacer,  max bilstein lift, a -24 offset wheel and a 325 heavy tire. Yeah, you have added some stress from stock... Have you said a prayer for your steering rack and wheel bearings? 

 

Tyler

True Tyler, any amount of lift will give stress. I was talking about the angle on the cv and balljoints that often you will see when people run those leveling kits (2-3”).  From this thread it’s been proven the strut lift mitigates that problem, and in my case the 0.5” doesn’t exacerbate it.

 

Does a 7” lift to fit 35’s come with a steering rack and wheel bearings?

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 6/26/2019 at 1:07 AM, admiral95 said:

Yes the Ranchos suck, and the 5100s are night and day difference.

There is another believer out there  :thumbs:

Posted
42 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

There is another believer out there  :thumbs:

Ok, so what is your total count at? I know you track it to use it as a sales pitch at work...

 

Tyler

Posted
3 minutes ago, amxguy1970 said:

Ok, so what is your total count at? I know you track it to use it as a sales pitch at work...

 

Tyler

Maybe I work for Bilstein......  :cool:

 

Posted
Thought I’d add to the discussion since this post helped me out quite a bit.  Yes the Ranchos suck, and the 5100s are night and day difference.  2017 GMC Sierra All Terrain X Package (Z71 w exhaust).
 
Put 5100 Bilstein’s in the back - easy enough, came from the Jeep world, this was no problem.
 
Used a local shop to install the front struts, set to the max setting with a 0.5” spacer to fit a wide tire.  I was going for the most tire I could fit with the least amount of lift without using one of those level kits, and said a little prayer.  325/60/18 (33.4”x12.8”) on 18x10 w -24 offset.  Yes I had to trim, metal and plastic, but I have no rub.  Truck is aligned, no stress on balljoints or cv’s. Tires sit about 1.5” out from flare, which is not too obtrusive and give it a good stance.
 
I’ll upgrade the UCA’s next.  But more wanted to see if the above could be done!  Appreciate the thread and posts (and arguments too)!
8909F0DE-1047-490E-A7E7-7E0BEA485716.thumb.jpeg.e7074115cf5af394280b48ec4a32691d.jpeg
87C86559-8BD2-4A3D-B5B5-2C1AEAEA0CB8.thumb.jpeg.813811d2b62f5346cd112141992aa5ae.jpeg
ED3F0952-795B-465D-9D4F-AA9464E4A72C.thumb.jpeg.b58aa7c342040213cfacb89f8970b57e.jpeg

How do you like the ridge grapplers? I was looking at them for mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted
8 minutes ago, Bigmoore said:


How do you like the ridge grapplers? I was looking at them for mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Just drove down to the Gulf of Mexico from Dallas on them.  Very low road noise, nice balance, so far can’t complain.  Have done very well in sand.  I did not get a lot of miles out of the stock Goodyears that came in the truck (about 20k before they started cupping).  I’ve run (on Jeeps) Goodyear MTRs, Yokohama MTs, Mickey Thompson MTs, Interco SS and Nitto Trail Grapplers in the past.  So far these, as popular as they are, seem to have the best of both worlds (road and play), and they are lower cost from Toyos which seem to be the only ones with a similar RT style.  If they get 45k miles I’ll be happy!

Posted

which struts do you guys recommend? 5100's or 6112's? I drive 85% highway/10% city and 5% off-road if that. I commute 80 miles a day and I'm looking for something that'll be comfortable on the freeway, hold up better than the ranchos, and be decent on washboard roads. Don't know if the 6112's are worth it for me with such little off-road?

Posted (edited)

Hey guys - long time lurker - first time poster. 

 

Original owner 2017 Silverado Z51 that has a RC Aluminum leveling kit. 2" part number 1308 on a set of 295/55/20 tires. 

I am thinking about doing the Bilstein 5100 shocks and struts. I don't dislike the Z51 setup, but I am sure it can be improved upon. Truck has 36K on it. 

 

I like how the truck currently sits and don't want to mess with this. 

Far from an expert on shocks and suspensions so my question is - can I leave my 2" RC leveling blocks and just install the 5100's at "stock" height and they should be the same as my current set up?

 

Is that correct / is it possible?

 

Obligatory pic of my truck. sorry not the best angles but all I had on hand. 

IMG_8162.JPG

Edited by DaddyHasABigTruck
  • Like 1
Posted
56 minutes ago, DaddyHasABigTruck said:

Hey guys - long time lurker - first time poster. 

 

Original owner 2017 Silverado Z51 that has a RC Aluminum leveling kit. 2" part number 1308 on a set of 295/55/20 tires. 

I am thinking about doing the Bilstein 5100 shocks and struts. I don't dislike the Z51 setup, but I am sure it can be improved upon. Truck has 36K on it. 

 

I like how the truck currently sits and don't want to mess with this. 

Far from an expert on shocks and suspensions so my question is - can I leave my 2" RC leveling blocks and just install the 5100's at "stock" height and they should be the same as my current set up?

 

Is that correct / is it possible?

 

Obligatory pic of my truck. sorry not the best angles but all I had on hand. 

IMG_8162.JPG

That’s exactly what I did on mine.  Truck rides great.

Posted
21 hours ago, swoleymammoth said:

which struts do you guys recommend? 5100's or 6112's? I drive 85% highway/10% city and 5% off-road if that. I commute 80 miles a day and I'm looking for something that'll be comfortable on the freeway, hold up better than the ranchos, and be decent on washboard roads. Don't know if the 6112's are worth it for me with such little off-road?

I went with the 6112’s because it is the strut/spring combo the truck should have from the factory, just replacing stock strut and keeping factory springs will only change the ride 50%. Might as well do it once and be done! I drive the same style as you and am so glad I waited for the 6112’s, installed myself as it is a piece of cake!

let me know if you have any questions or want more info?

 

11 hours ago, DaddyHasABigTruck said:

Hey guys - long time lurker - first time poster. 

 

Original owner 2017 Silverado Z51 that has a RC Aluminum leveling kit. 2" part number 1308 on a set of 295/55/20 tires. 

I am thinking about doing the Bilstein 5100 shocks and struts. I don't dislike the Z51 setup, but I am sure it can be improved upon. Truck has 36K on it. 

 

I like how the truck currently sits and don't want to mess with this. 

Far from an expert on shocks and suspensions so my question is - can I leave my 2" RC leveling blocks and just install the 5100's at "stock" height and they should be the same as my current set up?

 

Is that correct / is it possible?

 

Obligatory pic of my truck. sorry not the best angles but all I had on hand. 

IMG_8162.JPG

I removed my spacers when I installed the 6112’s, better geometry taking them out when running factory control arms. Put the 6112’s or 5100’s on the top ring and your at the same height up front with a better ride!

Posted
On 6/24/2019 at 2:40 PM, Whitty21 said:

Hey Guys,

 

Did some digging but couldnt come up with much.

 

I assume everything is the same for the 2019 limited editions? Anyone know off hand which control arms came on this model? Just picked up my 2019 sierra limeted z71 a month ago and debating the 5100's

As far as I know, the Limited is essentially the same as the 2018s.  Every part number I’ve compared on my Limited matches the part numbers on the 2018.   I think all the Limiteds were all configured with the stamped steel UCAs.  Mine did I know for sure.  You are correct, very little info out there on these.  Someone please correct me if I’m wrong.  

Posted (edited)

Hey everyone.

 

pulled the trigger on 5100s for front and rear. My current set up is 275/55/20s with an RC 1.5 level. Hoping to Install on highest setting with level removed and I was wondering if I should be on?

Edited by acc412

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
    • Grommets with the right cement should be perfectly fine. 
    • This is going to take allot of Assembly    
    • Why do they have the gas 10l80 opening at 145?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...