Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 11/4/2019 at 3:13 PM, delaware gmc said:

 

I went with the highest level on my truck and went with the Toyo Open Country A/T2’s. 285/60/R20..... love the set up there is slight rubbing at full tilt when turning or reversing

Posted
Highest level! 1.8" 


Awesome! I’m getting mine out on Wednesday and didn’t know if I should go highest or the 3rd notch, I appreciate it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Had Bilstein 5100's installed on the top notch then added some BFG TA ko2 in 285/70R17 Load C on my stock rims.

 

Really like the set-up so far. There may be a the slightest rub at full lock in reverse on an angle but for 99.9% of the time there is no issue.

Truck1.jpg

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Having the 5100’s installed on Monday. Now trying to figure out tire size. 
 

Would like to run 285/60/20 but it sounds like they’ll rub. Anybody running 285/55/20? Do they rub?

Posted

I would never buy ranchos or even buy a new truck upgraded with them, think z71 has em….ill do all suspension myself and just want interior options from manfctr….fabtech and rancho never again....seems a lot of peeps get spacer leveling only to lift it later ….just do it one time the right way

Posted

Put a set of 5100's on the rear a couple of nights ago and i'm wondering if it's a bad idea to remove the leaf blocks to lower it the 1.25". Has anyone ever done this? Will it damage the shock?

Posted (edited)
On 12/3/2019 at 7:55 PM, Dunn said:

I would never buy ranchos or even buy a new truck upgraded with them, think z71 has em….ill do all suspension myself and just want interior options from manfctr….fabtech and rancho never again....seems a lot of peeps get spacer leveling only to lift it later ….just do it one time the right way

Ok, was this supposed to be some type of PSA post or what was the point? Can't quit comprehend everything you wrote as it is in a text message format... 

 

Long Beach, do you run negative offset wheels by chance? Because that is no better than a spacer lift. 

 

Tyler

Edited by amxguy1970
  • 1 month later...
Posted

im new to the whoel truck scene and im waitning to replace my setup with these 5100 all the way around. i was just wondering if anyone is running an aftermarket set of springs to go along with the 5100. id really to get me a pair of springs as well. so i can have something similar to the eibach pro truck lift kit.

Posted
1 hour ago, Jorge L said:

im new to the whoel truck scene and im waitning to replace my setup with these 5100 all the way around. i was just wondering if anyone is running an aftermarket set of springs to go along with the 5100. id really to get me a pair of springs as well. so i can have something similar to the eibach pro truck lift kit.

Why not just get the 6112s up front if you want springs too. I have the 6112s up front with 5160s in the rear on my '15 and it's been a great upgrade. I don't think I could be happier.

  • Like 1
Posted
im new to the whoel truck scene and im waitning to replace my setup with these 5100 all the way around. i was just wondering if anyone is running an aftermarket set of springs to go along with the 5100. id really to get me a pair of springs as well. so i can have something similar to the eibach pro truck lift kit.
Why not just get the 6112s up front if you want springs too. I have the 6112s up front with 5160s in the rear on my '15 and it's been a great upgrade. I don't think I could be happier.
This^^^ they have better reviews.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Red_5 said:

Why not just get the 6112s up front if you want springs too. I have the 6112s up front with 5160s in the rear on my '15 and it's been a great upgrade. I don't think I could be happier.

i didnt even know these were a thing lol, however they are out of my price range as im just wanting to do a small level to my truck while i save up for a decent lift kit. so initially i was set on the bilstein 5100s all around. well then i came across the eibach pro truck lift kit and it peeked my interest due to the beefy springs. so now im torn wether i should got with the eibach kit or the bilsteins. so i figured id ask if there was a spring people were using with these 5100s apart from the oem one. something that could sill save me a few bucks. since the 5100s all around come out to 334 and the pro truck kit is 586.

Edited by Jorge L
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

think eibachs are progressive valved and bilsteins are digressive....different way of valving

 

digressive starts out firm then gets softer where progressive starts out softer and ramps up at end, just different approaches and everyone feels things differently, so just depends on what type you are

 

sucks cuz eibach had sale lil ways back and was $389 for all 4 corners, am sure it will come back at some point

  • Like 1
Posted
think eibachs are progressive valved and bilsteins are digressive....different way of valving
 
digressive starts out firm then gets softer where progressive starts out softer and ramps up at end, just different approaches and everyone feels things differently, so just depends on what type you are
 
sucks cuz eibach had sale lil ways back and was $389 for all 4 corners, am sure it will come back at some point
That seems odd, if a shock got softer as it compressed more wouldn't that be more likely to bottom out on big bumps & ride hard over minimal bumps in the road?

2014, 5.3, 4x4, work truck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yea that's pretty normal to be off a few degrees.  Usually 2-4 degrees from say a weather app or thermometer.  
    • I just replaced the ambient air temperature sensor.  Easy as pie. I simply had to remove about 10-12 clips on the plastic cover over the radiator and remove two T-10 torx screws on the hood release lever to liberate the cover (Amazingly, none of the clips broke.  All came out and went back in with zero problems). Once the cover was removed, the temp sensor is easily accessible. The sensor cable snakes through a few guides and can be pulled out for even easier access to the sensor. I was able to work the sensor out of the mounting hole.  There is a red sliding catch on the plug that must be pulled back to disconnect the cable.  The plug was quite tight.  I had to use a screwdriver to pry it out. I plugged in the new sensor ($6.45 from RockAuto), snapped it into the mounting hole and re-snaked the cable. I put the radiator cover back on and reattached the lever arm to the hood release.  All done!     I started up my Suburban.  The temperature read 82 °F. Other thermometers at my house read 80 °F.  Close enough.  It might be reading high as my vehicle was sitting in the sun.
    • Remember when you were 50 and they called you Old Man?
    • That one looks decent for the price   BUT..I want something that also supports OBDI/1.5. A lot of the prosumer-grade scanners don't have legacy support in order to keep costs low. I believe the Autel does if you go higher end with them.   For fun, I reached out to a local Snap-On rep because I was interested in the 2600. $1895 MSRP, says he can do $1595. That's still a lot, but then again, that's not a horrible discount for just asking out of the blue. Could probably do better if I was a regular buying off his truck, but I'm not.   Not sure if I mentioned but I didn't realize with USED scanners from Snap On that you need to make sure a) the serial number isn't flagged as stolen. On the newer ones, SnapOn can remotely disable the device if it's flagged in their system. And, customer service can tell you if it is, if you're thinking about buying used. B) Make sure it's paid off. If the seller still owes money to the truck or if they financed through Snap On, the device can be remotely disabled until the balance is paid. It's less clear if SnapOn will tell you if a balance is still owed; I didn't make it that far with the used model I was considering. I did read that SnapOn has no way of tracking any "truck financing" deals between the SnapOn rep and buyer, only if they financed through corporate. So there's that extra caution needed.   Still waffling on whether I go with a ~$500ish Autel/TopDon or spend bigger money. The value seems to be in the prosumer brands. I'm not giving them enough credit TBH, actual production repair shops use them daily BUT I'm still allergic to certain kinds of underdog products trying to unseat American companies with solid reputations. SnapOn's scanner isn't wholly made in the US, but it is assembled here and they have US support and probably the most proven/ robust legacy support.   Something to think about. Value, or principles? There's a $1k difference.
    • I'm thankful to live where we don't have extreme weather. We might all be blown to smithereens when Mt. Rainier goes, but 80 is warm enough in the summer and I can generally count the number of hard freezes in the winter on one hand. The cars here don't rust and they don't get sun-baked, either.   We have finished off many of our average 52 days of "clear/sunny" weather, though. Sunsets are coming earlier, the nights are a little cooler. It's right around the first week of September when we get our first warning that summer is coming to a close with overcast skies and the start of "hoodie weather" temperatures during the cooler parts of the day. By October, it's usually time to ditch the shorts. By November, it's mostly raining.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...