Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Why do this? Does it provide more light?

No additional light output. Looks much better at night. Along with others, I hate the dimmed look of the LEDs...knowing that they are way brighter in the day time.

Posted

No additional light output. Looks much better at night. Along with others, I hate the dimmed look of the LEDs...knowing that they are way brighter in the day time.

 

Cool, I look forward to seeing some results.

Posted

Does this brighten the top and bottom row of LED's? I'm assuming not since the bottom row is technically the DRL's

Posted

Does this brighten the top and bottom row of LED's? I'm assuming not since the bottom row is technically the DRL's

I really wish it did but unfortunately the top row only has one functionality, and that is to be lit at that brightness only at night.

Posted

Nice, but I'll pass. I prefer to have the top and bottom strips matching at night, not one brighter than the other.

  • Like 1
Posted

I feel like this is a good way to burn out the LED's....

 

Looks neat tho. Never really bothered me how they worked though.

  • Like 1
Posted

LEDs are pretty stout though. This is great write up , just wish top and bottom rows lit up

  • Like 1
Posted

so theres no way to make the top row brighter too? :( I was all excited someone found a way to do this until I saw that it only brightened up the lower DRL

Posted

^probably with custom wiring you could make it work by connecting the two strips together - perhaps even the top strip would then come on bright during the day too as your DRL.

Posted

^probably with custom wiring you could make it work by connecting the two strips together - perhaps even the top strip would then come on bright during the day too as your DRL.

 

Well I know that Phil at fastheadlights has something to make both strips come on both day and night at 100% brightness. I just got excited when I saw this thread cause it could've saved me the money from getting him to do the mod when he has my headlights to do a new projector retrofit.

 

I think Phil has been able to create a custom circuit board that allows this to happen.

Posted (edited)

I think it's more than just supplying the top row with more power.

If I'm correct, the bottom row has two sets of LEDs, 1 set used for night time parking lights and then both sets are lit during the day causing them to be brighter. If this is true, then the top row only has 1 set of LEDs so technically they can't get brighter unless you add more LEDs.

Edited by icecrm
  • Like 1
Posted

They are connected to the Low Beam Pins so they will come on anytime the low beams are on. No difference on the road as these are not high power LEDs - they do not have high light output, only for looks.

 

 

Stripe on the diode goes toward the DRL as that will prevent the flow of electricity from the DRL circuit to engage the low beams in the daytime.

 

 

 

I will have night time pictures after I install my HIDs. Yes they will stay lit when the high beams are activated.

 

 

 

These connectors are located in the BCM which is under the driver side dash. FullSizeRender2.jpg

 

Why does your pic show a jumper diode from the pink connector to the black? Your text and diagrams show black to brown.

Posted

Well I know that Phil at fastheadlights has something to make both strips come on both day and night at 100% brightness. I just got excited when I saw this thread cause it could've saved me the money from getting him to do the mod when he has my headlights to do a new projector retrofit.

 

I think Phil has been able to create a custom circuit board that allows this to happen.

Phil has been showing me more ingenuity and higher work quality than I originally gave him credit for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Update for anyone following:    Installed everything as shown in diagram. Opted for 8 AWG from Battery Positive to a 50A resettable inline breaker. 8 AWG is tied into to 2x 12 AWG wires feeding a 6 way fuse bus in parallel (manufacturer’s design of what I purchased).    4 of the 6 fuses available for circuits are tied to terminal 30 of each relay. I tied a jumper from one of my spare circuits off the bus to terminal 86 of each relay. The trigger, terminal 85, was pulled from my interior by way of T-Taps from the X61A-X5 pins 10, 11, 17 and 23. This was the hardest part of the job. Even with the X61A unbolted and the X5 removed - there was VERY little wiggle room.  I added back up lights that I want to come on with my cargo lamp - but when I would check continuity between S48A-X1 pin 18 to its respective landing point on the X61A-X5 it triggers the factory relay… Instead I opted for a add-a-fuse on the passenger interior fuse panel (fuse location 10 - cargo lamp) and ran it through the boot on the driver side to my load. Did this to avoid introducing any electrical gremlins.   Note: Please check for continuity between the S48A-X1 and the X61A-X5. In my case wire colours were not the same as other’s who have posted. To do a continuity check you need a Multimeter. Completely disassemble the S48A-X1 and remove the brown face plate off the X61A-X5 by way of a flat head screwdriver - this was the only way I could get any results.   The outputs, terminal 87 of the relays, were fed into a junction box and landed at Individual studs and were labelled Aux 1-4.    At this point, all you need to do is run wire to your loads and bring them to ground. I created a negative bus in the engine bay, all my negatives land here.    For anyone having issues with all of your new aux switch lights coming on with the press of one - I noticed this only to be an issue when the battery wasn’t hooked up to my relays? No idea why, but it was quickly corrected by having my system buttoned up and functional.     
    • Well I ordered the Autel ts508, and it won't work on my truck I tried all the 2023 and everything it just says vehicle not supported lol   I'm able to send this unit back, so I'm going to do that, then I'll just stop into a some tire shops and if none of them are able to do it, I guess ill have to spend a bunch of money to get a good scanner..... Thanks GM lol
    • Don't need the air tube but that's how everyone sells them. Most places won't remove that one piece and sell it alone. No money to be made. Hoping someone swapped theirs out for a CAI and no longer wants it. Not asking anyone to give it away. Offering to buy it but I don't need the tube. It's held on by a hex head screw and nut. Been all over eBay. 
    • Wait, you guys are changing your oil???
    • If you need that mount looking piece.  You need the air tube.       Cheapest one I see on eBay - 2007-2014 GM Silverado 1500 Air Cleaner Outlet Duct Assembly 5.3L OEM 15901934 | eBay     Same price but free shipping - 2009-2014 CADILLAC ESCALADE 6.2L AIR CLEANER OUTLET DUCT ASSEMBLY 15901934 OEM | eBay
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...