Jump to content

Andy Seibel

LED Reverse/ Backup lights in rear bumper step cavity?

Recommended Posts

Hello all, I have searched for ideas on this, and only found a few people who installed "mood lighting" inside the bumper step.

 

I'm wondering how simple or effective it would be to get some real reverse flood lights inside the bumper step? I know you could fill the whole cavity with a tractor light and it would work, but I'd like to still be able to use the step if I need it. So has anyone installed an LED flush mount or similar light that actually throws enough light behind them to use for backing up/ doing work? How does it fit inside the curved surface of the step?

 

The reason is I want the ability to have light behind me for plowing snow. I already replaced the factory reverse and cargo bulbs with LEDs, I think they work fairly nice, but they throw really straight back like a spotlight. I'm hoping to have a little wider path lit up. I don't want to cut the bumper or have lights hanging down below the bumper, but I know those would be alternative options.

 

I know there have been a lot of creative people adding auxiliary lights to their trucks, so I'm hoping someone can show how you were able to do this.

post-151671-0-21337200-1476448875_thumb.jpg

post-151671-0-21337200-1476448875_thumb.jpg

post-151671-0-21337200-1476448875_thumb.jpg

post-151671-0-21337200-1476448875_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

not really sure if you can put a flush mount in there. Aside from not being able to sit right, If I remember correctly, the bedside panels have a curve behind there that you'd hit/have to cut.

Another option would be adding the lights under the bumper. Thats how I have mine and like it better than flush mounts in the OEM bumper so theres no cutting. I pulled the screw that was used to hold the bumper step in place at the bottom and replaced it with the bolt and nut that come from Rigid Industries. They are holding extremely tight and can even loosen them to turn them if I choose.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

these look pretty cool. but wouldn't throw enough light for what you need.

 

http://www.autoanything.com/lights/anzo-led-rear-bumper-step-lights

 

 

I looked at these awhile ago as thought they looked cool but they have bad reviews. Lots of people complain about the quality and especially waterproofing. Anzo does not seem to make high quality products IMO they just sell flashy. But does kind of makes sense that water may be an issue at that location.

Edited by Alpine Truck Life

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I mounted a set of cubes in the footwells on the rear bumper. Ended up using one of the torx bolts that hold the plastic footwell to the bumper. I did have to use loctite when I put the torx bolts back in as they tended to back out with the weight of the lights. Looks pretty good and I still have retained the use of the steps. I used a knock out bit and drilled a hole in each footwell to pass the wiring to the underside of the bumper. With a rubber grommet and the placement you really can't see the hole unless you look for it. I've had them on for about six months and the only issue I have had is remembering to spin the cubes around into the footwell when I go through the car wash. To

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is a bro dozer running around here that did the same thing, mounted some 2x2 cubes in there. Looks good and I am sure they work pretty well too. Haven't seen a write up on it yet.

Tyler

Edited by amxguy1970

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I installed Rigid dually lights in the cavity that mount to the top side. Kind of a pain to get the plastic portion pulled out far enough to drill the the mounting hole on the top side put they work great. I have the ones with the diffusion lenses to spread the light. Here is a link to the lights:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NKUMK8/ref=pd_sim_263_4/151-6702282-7258659?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B007NKUMK8&pd_rd_r=X8NC3Y3Y1FTZKDYEH53P&pd_rd_w=tGcE0&pd_rd_wg=NR5Kc&psc=1&refRID=X8NC3Y3Y1FTZKDYEH53P

 

Will try to post pics soon.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I installed 1 led light in each bumper step. I drilled a hole in the center of the step toward the top. Right behind your hitch are a bunch of wires and plugs. I connected both wires to one of the wires that works with the cargo lights and grounded out the others. I forgot which one it was but ill look tomorrow. It works perfect. Never had a problem. I added some pictures below.

 

post-150671-147648781225_thumb.jpg

 

post-150671-147648782269_thumb.jpg

 

post-150671-147648783667_thumb.png

 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

post-150671-147648781225_thumb.jpg

post-150671-147648782269_thumb.jpg

post-150671-147648783667_thumb.png

post-150671-147648781225_thumb.jpg

post-150671-147648782269_thumb.jpg

post-150671-147648783667_thumb.png

post-150671-147648781225_thumb.jpg

post-150671-147648782269_thumb.jpg

post-150671-147648783667_thumb.png

  • Like 9
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello,

I just installed the Rigid Flush Mount Ignite Series. Provides a lot of light for the sides and the camera. Just thought I'd share with ya..Good luck.

 

post-58278-0-69073800-1480172711_thumb.jpg

post-58278-0-61809100-1480172902_thumb.jpg

post-58278-0-69073800-1480172711_thumb.jpg

post-58278-0-61809100-1480172902_thumb.jpg

post-58278-0-69073800-1480172711_thumb.jpg

post-58278-0-61809100-1480172902_thumb.jpg

post-58278-0-69073800-1480172711_thumb.jpg

post-58278-0-61809100-1480172902_thumb.jpg

  • Like 13

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello,

I just installed the Rigid Flush Mount Ignite Series. Provides a lot of light for the sides and the camera. Just thought I'd share with ya..Good luck.

 

20161102_175618.jpg

20161102_115832.jpg

I need some more details on this set up. I really like what you did and have been looking to ger better lighting out back when in reverse as I have some dark tint. Did you have to remove the rear step to install or we you able to install with the steps still on? Where did you pick up the lights?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I need some more details on this set up. I really like what you did and have been looking to ger better lighting out back when in reverse as I have some dark tint. Did you have to remove the rear step to install or we you able to install with the steps still on? Where did you pick up the lights?

I sent you a PM.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I sent you a PM.

Whoa dude, spread the wealth! I'm interested as well. Looks killer! Love what you did there

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Me too....please post a link to where you got them and how it was installed.....appreciate it much!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Same here. This is one of the cooler mods I've seen

 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the nice comments everyone...much appreciated. I'll do my best to give you how I did it-

 

The lights I used are these- http://www.rigidindu...-lighting/20641

 

However, I just found them on Amazon for like 92.50..

 

The Rigids come with a round template and I used a Harbor Freight Step Drill. I think you can by the whole set on sale for like 8.99 for three of these gold plated step drills. Then just locate the center, mark, drill out and they slide in. The lights are square/rectangular shape on the back side. I've included another pic from the underneath for reference.

Also, I did not remove the plastic steps. I did loosen the screws that hold them in and warmed the plastic a little. I pulled the top down when it came time to put screws in the top of the flush mounts to put the nut on the back.(I'd just use long needle nose pliers to put the nut and washer on if I were to do it a again) Then I put the step back in and used long needle nose pliers to hold the nut on top and bottom while I tighten them down. Spliced, soldered, heat shrink, put back in OEM factory sheathing and reinstalled both rear taillights.

Then, second issue came up for me, factory back up lights were a dull yellow compared to the Rigids, so I ordered some new LED's for back ups in the OEM sockets which now are as white as the Rigid's.

While I was at it, I changed my license plate bulbs to LED bulbs as well.

I have about 5 hrs of labor and wiring.

Mark

post-58278-0-99542500-1480297255_thumb.jpg

post-58278-0-99542500-1480297255_thumb.jpg

post-58278-0-99542500-1480297255_thumb.jpg

post-58278-0-99542500-1480297255_thumb.jpg

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

    • By MNorby
      Bolt on tube light mount w/ 9" LED lights and grill covers for 2015-2019 Silverado HD trucks. 100% bolt on to factory locations and adjustable for your setup. Billet grill covers and customized bumper grill to fit the light mount. Includes four of the higher diode count 225w 9" LED lights with flood light diffusers covers and wiring pigtail. Four of these lights turn night into day. Unless local thinking $500 shipped (conus) for the whole package. 
       








    • By RyF
      I know I'm not the only guy who has gone with this setup, but I'm posting this to refresh and refine the topic. My setup is slightly modified, and I also have some questions at the end for others who already went this route as well. I deliberated on this project for quite awhile, because I've had negative experiences with electrical systems in the past. You can do everything right, and in spite of best efforts the vehicle's PCM just doesn't cooperate sometimes. 
       
      I initially wanted to make this OEM true using strictly factory auxiliary battery option components. The factory option for the auxiliary battery is "TP2." I ultimately decided, though, that there was a better way to get what I wanted while still keeping it very close to factory and much more cost-effective. The only real choice that needed to be made was how I would connect the two (isolator, solenoid, direct connection, etc). I researched and went back and forth for about a year before I finally chose the marine-grade Blue Sea Systems ML-ACR. The acronym stands for Manual Lever Automatic Charging Relay.
       
      The ML-ACR is proven and very popular in the overlanding community with nothing but great reviews. It offers three settings with a magnetic lever under the hood.
      1. Automatic - the batteries are isolated until the alternator provides amperage necessary to begin charging the starter battery. Once this happens, the magnetic button on the lever is activated automatically, connecting the batteries.
      2. Manual Off - the batteries stay isolated from one another regardless of amperage provided to the system. This is achieved by turning the yellow lever to its off position. The batteries will never connect while on this setting. 
      3. Manual On - this connects the batteries even with the vehicle off. The benefit of this option is never needing jumped again. If your starter battery loses voltage required to start the vehicle, simply push the magnetic button in on the yellow lever. This connects the batteries, immediately channeling voltage (~12.5v) from the aux to the starter battery, allowing you to start the vehicle. 
      There's also a remote switch included that can be located in the cab, but it's use is optional. The remote switch is the typical rectangular auxiliary switch that fits aftermarket panels. I did not use it, because I like keeping my cab factory clean and didn't want to cut anything inside. 
       
      Tools needed:
      Something to cut copper cable,
      Any style terminal crimpers,
      Something to shrink heat wrap, 
      Razor or knife to strip copper cable sheath, 
      Socket set.
      Parts needed:
      My model came stock with the aux battery tray, so I only needed the bolt and plastic clamp to retain the battery in that tray. 
      GM #11519527 (bolt) - $6.23
      GM #14005061 (plastic retainer) - $5.49
      GM #84043745 (fuse block) This is the same fuse block that clips on the top of your main battery. I wanted to have a few high-amp fuses for my winch connections, and I like that it looks factory. This is not necessary to complete the project. - $58.55
      GM #84180633 (fuse block cover) This is the plastic cover that snaps onto the fuse block. - $12.76
      Factory-specific battery model #48-AGM. I went with the Diamond model from Battery Source. - $179.99
      Blue Sea Systems ML-ACR - $185.45
      Ford OEM negative terminal clamp...I just needed something simple. - $12.75
      Materials specific to wiring (all from Amazon.com):
      10' combo pack of both 1/0 AWG copper red and black welding cable. This is high quality and rated for 300 amps at 25', which is much more than I need. I ended up with about 2' extra of each color when I was done. - $64.80
      15-pack of 1/0 AWG marine-grade terminals. I only used six of them for this, but I needed the rest for another project, and it's cheaper to buy in bulk. - $19.61
      4' red and 4' black adhesive lined marine-grade 3/4" heat shrink. I only used about 12" of red and 6" of black for this project, but again it's cheaper in bulk. - $13.00
      2-pack of Fastronix 3/8" stud red terminal covers for the ML-ACR. - $7.99
      20' black fire retardant 1" inside diameter split wire loom. I used this where I ran both pos and neg together across the back of the engine bay. It looks factory. I probably only used about 7' for this project. - $9.97
      10' black fire retardant 5/8" inside diameter split wire loom. I used this to cover the individual strands of cable, which was only about 3' total. - $12.95
      20-30 black zip-ties. I use zip-ties for everything, so they were already on hand.
       
      My total for materials came to $589.54, but I'm sure I could have cut down on the cost if I hadn't purchased so much overage for other projects. I also used the OEM fuse block and cover, which aren't necessary. Given that, this project can definitely be completed in under $500. That's about 1/3 what any dealership will quote you, assuming they're even willing to retrofit your truck with the TP2 factory option. Most are for whatever reason hesitant to take on the project.
       
      The actual job of connecting everything is pretty simple. I spent less than five hours in all, but it can be done in three hours. I spent a lot of time deciding how I wanted to route wiring and where I wanted to mount the ML-ACR. There aren't many places in the engine bay that make sense. I ended up mounting it on the fuse panel lid adjacent to the aux battery location. I used four mounting screws to do so, and I'm very happy with that location and method. The fastest process to complete the project follows.
       
      1. Clamp the negative terminal on the stud, put the battery in the factory aux location, bolt it down loosely, and clip the optional fuse block on. 
      2. There's a fuse panel directly adjacent to the battery location. Remove the fuse panel lid and mount the ML-ACR in the center of the fuse panel lid with the terminals facing the body and the yellow switch facing the engine. 
      3. Route copper cables closely to what you intend to be their final positions. One single length of black cable should be routed from the starter battery neg terminal to the aux battery neg terminal. Two lengths of red cable will be used. One from the starter battery pos terminal to the ML-ACR, and one from the ML-ACR to the aux battery pos terminal. Mark the cables for cutting. 
      4. Remove the cables from the engine bay, cut, strip, and crimp the cables. 
      5. Reroute copper cables into their final locations. Use caution when connecting cables to avoid crossing and shorting. Tighten all connections. 
      6. The ML-ACR has a ground wire that must be grounded to the neg battery terminal on the aux battery. 
      7. Dress cables with the loom and zip-ties. 
      8. You can test the system with a multimeter and your dash voltmeter.
      - Batteries should be at ~12.5v when the vehicle is off. When isolated, each battery will likely read a slightly different voltage output. When manually connected with the yellow button in (vehicle still off), both batteries should read identical voltages.
      - Lock the yellow switch to isolate the batteries and start the vehicle. The voltmeter in the dash should read ~14v. The starter battery should be ~14v when tested with the multimeter. The aux battery should still read ~12.5v.
      - Rotate the yellow switch to its automatic position and wait. Revving to 2,500 RPM will expedite this step. It could take as long as 5 min, so be patient. Observe the magnetic push button on the yellow switch, which will automatically retract once the alternator provides necessary amperage.
      - Once the push button is automatically retracted, both batteries will read identical voltage at ~14v.
      - Shut the vehicle off and immediately move back to the engine bay to observe the push button. It will automatically pop out in approximately 30 sec.

    • By Sierradad420
      I have a 2015 GMC Sierra and I had a light bar in the back for the brake lights connected to the 4 plug trailer light connector, one morning I started my truck up and the light bar was on working fine five minutes later I go out to my truck and the light bar was off so initially I check the fuses and all seem goodthe blinker lights and brake lights work fine for the trailer but the running lights don't work so I unplug the bar and tested each connector with a tester and found the running lights don't work at the plug. is there anything I can check before I start following wires? 
    • By ikaika1984
      Good evening Ladies/Gents
      Its been a while since i've been on the site, had to take a personal brake. Wanted to get back into the mods, start small. What's the most efficient way of finding mod how-to's for my specific vehicle (if that's even possible). Where do I begin looking? Hope this makes sense. Thank you all in advance. 
    • By SailorX
      Is there anyone out there who knows how to reflash the BCM to use LEDS in a 2015 Silverado? I hate the resistors!!!
       
      thanks
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    207,548
    Total Topics
    2,221,250
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    176,887
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Phino
    Newest Member
    Phino
    Joined
  • Who's Online   21 Members, 0 Anonymous, 306 Guests (See full list)

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.