Jump to content

2014 Silverado Battery Replacement Problems

jamesok1

By jamesok1
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

jamesok1 Enthusiast

jamesok1

Posted
Posted

Hi folks! Yesterday I was leaving home depot and my truck wouldn't start. I ended up jumping my truck and bought a new battery (3 years, 50k miles and the original battery seemed about right time to need replacement). I installed the new battery and noticed that my front passenger and rear passenger blinkers were not working. I ended up finding a blown right turn signal fuse and replaced it but am still having issues. Checked all other fuses in all 3 fuse panels and they are ok. When I started the truck I found out that my radio/ac/backup camera were not working as well and that the display constantly says service 4wd. Might also be other issues that I have not uncovered yet.

 

When I connected the positive terminal I noticed a little spark but did not think anything of it. I've replaced batteries before and this seemed nothing out of the ordinary.

 

After researching it seems like weird electrical issues all trace back to the BCM. I believe that the turn signals are controlled by the BCM as well, so this also points to it being the BCM. Does anyone know if a reset is possible for the BCM and if that might help my problem? Most of the BCM items I've found about resetting have to do with security system related issues. Can anyone confirm the correct way to perform a BCM reset? Kinda ticks me off that a simple battery replacement could cause other problems...very easy to engineer in circuit protection to sensitive electronics.

 

Truck is 2014 Silverado crew cab, 4wd, 50k miles.

 

All help is MUCH appreciated! Thanks!

 

 

tbarn Senior Enthusiast

tbarn

Posted
Posted (edited)

Are you sure you connected all the cables and in the correct position? There is no BCM reset except for disconnecting the battery.

Edited by tbarn
Rolling Thunder Enthusiast

Rolling Thunder

Posted
Posted

There is a sequence for connecting jumpers in your owner's manual. Done incorrectly you can damage the electrical system. Only.you know the sequence that you used. See if you can remember it..

jamesok1 Enthusiast

jamesok1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies! I will disconnect the battery for a while and reconnect to try and reset the BCM. Not sure why the BCM needs to be reset after just replacing the battery. Some of the other threads say to connect the positive battery terminal to the negative lead after the battery is out of the picture. Thats a common way to remove any charge from a capacitor. Has anyone ever done this?


Thanks for the replies! I will disconnect the battery for a while and reconnect to try and reset the BCM. Not sure why the BCM needs to be reset after just replacing the battery. Some of the other threads say to connect the positive battery terminal to the negative lead after the battery is out of the picture. Thats a common way to remove any charge from a capacitor. Has anyone ever done this?

jamesok1 Enthusiast

jamesok1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

RollingThunder -

 

I connected the jumper cables in the following sequence (which I subsequently found out was WRONG)-

 

1. Negative good battery

2. Positive good battery

3. Negative bad battery

4. Positive bad battery

 

I did not look at the owners manual before I connected the cables. I opened it up and it has all sorts of cautions in there about turning everything (lamps, lights, radios, etc) off before jumping. Also says that doing this could help save the radio. What? Could destroy a radio by jumping the car? Oh well, hopefully folks will read this and not follow my footsteps.

 

FYI - The manual says the correct way to jump the truck is to (these are the highlights and may be different for different models):

1 - turn off ignition of both vehicles

2 - unplug and turn off all unecessary components.

3 - connect the positive cable terminal to the positive of the dead battery

4 - connect the other positive terminal to the positive of the good battery

5 - connect the negative cable terminal to the negative of good battery

6 - connect the other negative to the metal bracket bolted to the engine (has an illustration in manual)

7 - start the vehicle with the good battery and let it run for a while

8 - try starting vehicle with the bad battery.

 

there are specific steps for cable removal as well.

 

Performing the BCM reset now. Will report back what I find but do not have high hopes for this magically solving everything.

jamesok1 Enthusiast

jamesok1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Also worth noting is that I did not notice anything wrong with my truck after I jumpstarted it. I only had problems after I replaced the battery. There are not any procedures on how to replace the battery in the manual (?), but I suspect that the same rules would apply.

TX_AT Enthusiast

TX_AT

Posted
Posted (edited)

Jamesok1, it seems we r having similar issues. I had a left rear indicator failure for about 2 weeks. The top bulb signal light was not working. Other than that everything worked as it should.

 

I finally decided to change the bulb today & when i was done, the damn thing wouldn't start. It read "Low battery start vehicle", "Service Stabilitrac." After being pissed of a few minutes, i jumped it and it started right up. It had the anti theft indicator on so i turned it off, locked it, tried remote starting it & worked. Left it on for the 10 minute cycle. Then off until later on in the day.

 

Fast forward to 10pm when i was about to take my daughter to see the firework show, NO START!!! SMH

 

I jumped it again, this time with my Whistler Jump Starter. Starts right up! I left her running for 2 hours before shutting her off & going inside. We'll see what happens tomorrow morning.

 

After reading this thread i just hope its a bad battery! Somehow i don't think that's the case with me because when i connected the jumper cables to the trucks battery and then touched the others together to see if there was any charge, there was plenty of spark. Hopefully Im wrong!

 

It all started with a damn signal light bulb!!

 

My truck is also a 2014 with 52k

Edited by TX_AT
Justin101714 Enthusiast

Justin101714

Posted
Posted

I would check the fuse block snapped onto to the top of the battery for any blown mega fuses. A test light works well. Just go from your negative battery terminal to each side of the fuse.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dale_K Enthusiast

Dale_K

Posted
Posted

I'm just making a guess, but maybe the battery cable is bad. There were known problems with some of the battery cables. Possibly the manipulation of the cable during the battery replacement was enough to loosen the crimp connection on one end or the other of one of the cables.

 

I would try wiggling the cables when you have the next incident to see if it makes a difference. Then replace the cable that seems bad.

 

Like I said, I'm just guessing.

Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted

Not sure if they still use fuseable links in this day and age, if they do, check for a blown one somewhere. Have you check all the other fuses and things in addition to the blown turn signal fuse? Boxes under the hood and in the cab.

MaverickZ71 Senior Enthusiast

MaverickZ71

Posted
Posted (edited)

A lot of people on here have had various problems after changing a battery. These new vehicles are very (as in too darned) picky about the procedures you follow. You might unhook the battery, let the vehicle sit for a while, touch the two battery cables together for a couple of seconds, and hook it back up. Lord knows how many batteries I've replaced/recharged/jump started through the years, and I never had a problem until I replaced the battery on my '09 Silverado. I thought it had a voodoo curse until I read on here about unhooking the battery, letting it sit awhile, touching the two battery cables together, and hooking it back up. When I did that, then everything was fine.

Edited by Maverick Z71
  • Thanks 1
TX_AT Enthusiast

TX_AT

Posted
Posted

My problems are gone after installing a new battery. Still keeping my fingers crossed for a few days.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

jagabom (Esquire) Enthusiast

jagabom (Esquire)

Posted
Posted (edited)

TX-AT, when you hooked up the new battery did did you hook any certain terminal up first or do you think it matters?

Jim

Edited by jagabom
TX_AT Enthusiast

TX_AT

Posted
Posted

I hooked up the Positive first then the ground. Im not sure it matters but that's what i did.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Gas Prices

      By Atlas · Posted

      Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • bluev8
      Intermittent no-code issues on 2022.5+ V8 trucks — what did the shop fail to capture?

      By bluev8 · Posted

      That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • scotthvac.net
      2022-24 halogen - led grille swap

      By scotthvac.net · Posted

      2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • davester
      Replacement Radiator

      By davester · Posted

      And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
    • davester
      Turning radius

      By davester · Posted

      Just don't turn the steering wheel as much?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...