Jump to content

2007 Chevrolet Tahoe swap info needed!

BigAutoDog
 Share

Recommended Posts

BigAutoDog New Member

BigAutoDog

Posted
Posted (edited)

Okay, I hope all's well here and I can find someone who can help! I need information I can't seem to find. I am in a financial bind and need to replace the motor of my 07 Tahoe. It has thrown a piston through the interior of the block. I was trying to find out if there is a straight plug and play swap from another truck I might use. I just don't have $1500 for a proper 07 Tahoe motor. I can pull a motor in my area for around $400. Problem is there are no 07 Tahoes there, but have found many 5.3l Silverados and a few Older Yukons & Suburbans. All I keep getting is that I have to get vin J  motors for it to be a straight swap. The heads of my 07 are fine with the exception of one push rod that I'm in the process of changing! Help! Anyone have any suggestions?

Edited by BigAutoDog
Corrections
BigAutoDog New Member

BigAutoDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay, I hope all's well here and I can find someone who can help! I need information I can't seem to find. I am in a financial bind and need to replace the motor of my 07 Tahoe. It has thrown a piston through the interior of the block. I was trying to find out if there is a straight plug and play swap from another truck I might use. I just don't have $1500 for a proper 07 Tahoe motor. I can pull a motor in my area for around $400. Problem is there are no 07 Tahoes there, but have found many 5.3l Silverados and a few Older Yukons & Suburbans. All I keep getting is that I have to get vin J  motors for it to be a straight swap. The heads of my 07 are fine with the exception of one push rod that I'm in the process of changing! Help! Anyone have any suggestions?

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted

So you have a non Flex Fuel LY5.  The LMG (cast iron block) and LC9 (aluminum block) 5.3s are both Flex Fuel and you could run your intake and fuel rail and your computer on them.  2010 and newer versions of these engines had VVT so watch for that.

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
BigAutoDog New Member

BigAutoDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So find one between 07 and 09 it should plug and play? I was informed a while back when I had battery problems that my truck is on the mid yr. change over list. Which made the battery for my baby between $150-$200 and said it would be shipped to me from overseas. Now I am not the brightest bulb in the box, but last I checked my Tahoe was made in America. Would you know if this would hinder which vehicle I take my motor from? So far out of all the people and techs I've talked with @Swathdiver you are the only one making sense! Should I be looking more at 08 motors since my 8th vin# is J? Trying to do this quickly and without having to overhaul a bunch of parts. Thanks again Swathdiver

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yes, if you're just using the block.  Are you going to delete AFM?  This adds to the cost so you may want to forgo it at this time.

 

Go here and download the pdf showing the details of the GEN IV engines to confirm what I've said.

 

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2012/03/rebuilding-gms-4-8-5-3-and-6-0l-gen-iv-engine/

 

What size battery?  Is it a group 48 or 78?  Mine is an odd size too, compared with my other cars.

Edited by swathdiver
  • Thanks 1
BigAutoDog New Member

BigAutoDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks, honestly didn't think about deleting the AFM.  Yeah, definitely trying not to go but so far right now. That's why I've been trying to find a match that I basically with gaskets and things could just drop in button up and go. And if I'm not mistaken the guy at Napa said group 48. I got the battery out of a friend's Suburban, now that I think more about at the time about 7yrs. ago, guy actually said $265, we'll it's still there and she did just fine with the Suburban battery. I wanted to change the motor and beef it up a bit, but after getting it from my dad when he passed, I had to replace the entire rear end due the diff chewing it'self up one day. 

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted (edited)

I think mine also has a Group 48 if memory serves.  The original part number according to manuals is 19001810 which equates to a 78-6YR AC Delco battery.  The AC Delco batteries are great, just expensive.  Down here in Florida, it was rare for any battery to last more than two years.  We're getting 5-8 years with these AC Delco batteries now.

 

Let us know which donor motor you get and how it goes.  I'm surprised that there hasn't been more participation in this thread.

Edited by swathdiver
  • 2 years later...
TrillWill Enthusiast

TrillWill

Posted
Posted
On 10/29/2017 at 3:49 PM, swathdiver said:

So you have a non Flex Fuel LY5.  The LMG (cast iron block) and LC9 (aluminum block) 5.3s are both Flex Fuel and you could run your intake and fuel rail and your computer on them.  2010 and newer versions of these engines had VVT so watch for that.

I have an 07 yukon with 5.3 flex fuel.  I bought a 5.3 engine off a 2014 cop tahoe. Do you think the 2014 tahoe engine will be compatible with my 07 yukon?

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted
35 minutes ago, TrillWill said:

I have an 07 yukon with 5.3 flex fuel.  I bought a 5.3 engine off a 2014 cop tahoe. Do you think the 2014 tahoe engine will be compatible with my 07 yukon?

Yes, but they are not necessarily plug and play.  Your engine does not have VVT and the 2014 motor does.  If you got the ECM and wiring harness with the new engine, drop it in and have the VIN flashed and your good to go.

 

If not, you have the option of adding VVT to your existing wiring harness and computer or you can physically delete it or just leave it unplugged with your original harness and ECM.

 

Does that make sense?

TrillWill Enthusiast

TrillWill

Posted
Posted

Yes it does. Thanks for the fast reply. But what about the front? I'm seeing the cams are different. This is a picture of both engines3e36c89226bc9fd395f2999af0c47d22.jpgdaef4bff541986996dd2aca71a69bddb.jpg

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

TrillWill Enthusiast

TrillWill

Posted
Posted
Yes, but they are not necessarily plug and play.  Your engine does not have VVT and the 2014 motor does.  If you got the ECM and wiring harness with the new engine, drop it in and have the VIN flashed and your good to go.
 
If not, you have the option of adding VVT to your existing wiring harness and computer or you can physically delete it or just leave it unplugged with your original harness and ECM.
 
Does that make sense?
Yes it does. Thanks for the fast reply. But what about the front? I'm seeing the cams are different. This is a picture of both engines7c042f6928ff3af33c0111a413f72e19.jpgafc21ae6f6b149e5c66bda0b85e27ada.jpg

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, TrillWill said:

Yes it does. Thanks for the fast reply. But what about the front? I'm seeing the cams are different. This is a picture of both engines

This is the difference between them.  Yours has a single pattern camshaft and does not have Variable Valve Timing.  The new engine has a dual pattern camshaft with VVT which is good for a solid 1 MPG. 

 

You have several options here:

 

1. Leave it disconnected.

2. Use the donor engine wiring harness and computer and flash the ECM to your VIN.

3. Add the wiring to your existing harness and pin the ECM and update your ECMs firmware to accommodate VVT.

4. Swap covers and physically delete VVT and leave it disconnected.

 

Your donor engine has a number of improvements over the original 2009 version.  They are:

1.  The driver's side valve cover has an improved PCV system to reduce oil consumption.

2.  The VLOM under the intake for AFM is greatly improved as are the lifters but there are newer ones even better since.

3.  The pressure relief valve in the oil pan now has a deflector to reduce oil consumption.

 

This is a good time to pull the oil pan on the 2014 motor and replace the oil pump's pick up tube o-ring.  They fail at about 160K and kill the engine's oil pressure.

TrillWill Enthusiast

TrillWill

Posted
Posted
This is the difference between them.  Yours has a single pattern camshaft and does not have Variable Valve Timing.  The new engine has a dual pattern camshaft with VVT which is good for a solid 1 MPG. 
 
You have several options here:
 
1. Leave it disconnected.
2. Use the donor engine wiring harness and computer and flash the ECM to your VIN.
3. Add the wiring to your existing harness and pin the ECM and update your ECMs firmware to accommodate VVT.
4. Swap covers and physically delete VVT and leave it disconnected.
 
Your donor engine has a number of improvements over the original 2009 version.  They are:
1.  The driver's side valve cover has an improved PCV system to reduce oil consumption.
2.  The VLOM under the intake for AFM is greatly improved as are the lifters but there are newer ones even better since.
3.  The pressure relief valve in the oil pan now has a deflector to reduce oil consumption.
 
This is a good time to pull the oil pan on the 2014 motor and replace the oil pump's pick up tube o-ring.  They fail at about 160K and kill the engine's oil pressure.
Thanks for the info. I was thinking about bypassing the vvt. Or do you recommend the vvt? If i bypass it, would i have a check engine light on?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, TrillWill said:

Thanks for the info. I was thinking about bypassing the vvt. Or do you recommend the vvt? If i bypass it, would i have a check engine light on?

Well, tell me this: do you have the 2014s engine wiring harness and computer?  If so, keep VVT.  If not, leave it disconnected, won't throw a code when using your original harness and ECM.

 

VVT was good for a solid 1 MPG and broadened the torque band, brought in peak torque about 400 rpms sooner.

Edited by swathdiver
TrillWill Enthusiast

TrillWill

Posted
Posted
Well, tell me this: do you have the 2014s engine wiring harness and computer?  If so, keep VVT.  If not, leave it disconnected, won't throw a code when using your original harness and ECM.
 
VVT was good for a solid 1 MPG and broadened the torque band, brought in peak torque about 400 rpms sooner.
No i don't have the body harness for the 2014. I may consider adding vvt to the existing harness in the future. I was concerned about seeing a check engine light being on if it's disconnected

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/fuel-economy-stickers-don-t-tell-the-whole-story-aaa-data-reveals-why/ar-AA26ocHk?ocid=winp2fptaskbarhover&cvid=6a4122ea3dae47e5b8dfbed5d4fd3d55&cvpid=648f6b4fc2fa4eddb4c12893aeb957ed&ei=59
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      What’s missing in all this is patience and investment in the future. Buy a 170K starter home. Ten years later sell it invest in a more expensive home. Eventually you’ll have a 600K home and pay starter home payments. Buy a starter car. Maintain it well. Save the payments after it’s payed for then buy an expensive car if you desire. Buy a tumbler make your own coffee, pack your lunch. Cook your own dinner. Most importantly take care of your car.
    • Atlas
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Atlas · Posted

      People mislead themselves. Statistics are highly useful indicators.   Here's the tie-in to this thread. If an oil sample tests shows a wear indicator of 7 using cheaper ACDelco oil, and a wear indicator of 2 (lower = less wear) using a particular brand of Mobil oil, and wear has a linear relationship with engine lifespan, anyone could assume that Mobil is reducing wear by more than 50% (let's just say a 200% reduction for you red state people trying hard to do math) which leads to increasing engine life by 2x. Perhaps, in a vacuum, by itself, when dreamed by AI.   Yeah?! That's what the statistic is saying, isn't it?   No, it isn't. It didn't come out and say engine life is doubled. That's a very bad assumption, and a case of severe myopia by assuming something potentially untrue about the only data point in focus.   Average cost of a new car is 50k. You bet it is.   The median cost of a new car is more like 35k. Expensive cars are skewing the perception that "average" now means a $50k price of entry for a very average automobile. And that's not true. People who don't understand statistics twist the living heck out of them to mean all sorts of things they don't actually mean.   "Average" new car payment is $1000/month. Yep, it is. And in that number are all the $35k new car buyers who bring significant equity, and the $25k new car buyers who finance the car for a month just to get a rebate, and then pay it off. Know what isn't in that number? All the payments made by people who don't finance a car.   Picking one's own data point (don't have a car payment, never paid $50k for a new vehicle, my house cost $170k, I afforded a middle class lifestyle on $4.50/hr) is just a data point. Just like earning $25/hr in an area where the median home price is almost $1 Million is a data point. In fact, it's a lot of data points given that 80% of the US population lives in/around major cities. They're not idiots; the vast majority of them do it to make a living because that's where the big money is.   The highs have become higher, lows have become lower, and how your personal mileage varies is not truth for an entire country. At the same time you can't NOT acknowledge the data. While it doesn't paint YOUR personal picture, it certainly tints the reality that you also live in, as does your single data point.    
    • ShotgunZ71
      Poll: Does your truck have the rear window leak?

      By ShotgunZ71 · Posted

      Glad you had success with it. I did as well, but about 5-6 months later it returned. Tried again, same result. This was after the dealer made several attempts and never even got it to slow down.
    • KARNUT
      Gas Prices

      By KARNUT · Posted

      3.15 Kroger’s in Montgomery Tx

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...