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DIY Oil Change Question

Buckshot556

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Buckshot556 Enthusiast

Buckshot556

Posted
Posted

Did my first oil change on the truck today. 2016 2500hd 6.0.

 

Firstly, damn thing sits about 1.5" too low to comfortably creep around underneath. My wrangler really spoiled me the last ten years.  Another reason to level the truck I guess lol.

 

Anyway, the oil filter was a pain in the ass with the way it is recessed into the oil pan.  Normally I hand tighten the filter on but with this truck I had to use the filter wrench.  Anyway I'm a stickler for spec's.  Anyone have their manual handy or know what the torque spec is for the  oil filter?  I'm really paranoid I did not install it properly.  

 

Thanks in advance

rocnrol Enthusiast

rocnrol

Posted
Posted

I always go German spec, make sure you have some oil on the seal, and you'll be good to go.



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muddkatt Senior Enthusiast

muddkatt

Posted
Posted

Most filters instruct you to turn it "X" amount after the gasket makes contact. I have seen it vary from 3/4 of a turn to 1 full turn.

SierraHD17 Senior Enthusiast

SierraHD17

Posted
Posted

I just use the longer oil filter.. makes removing it easier as it sits closer to the depth of the oil pan.  Wix 57045, EAO17 Amsoil or PF63 Delco.  The instructions for tightness are included usually on the canister which is usually1/2 to 3/4 turn after contact.  

steelcity Enthusiast

steelcity

Posted
Posted

I don't know if torque specs really matter. On my first oil change I almost had to use a breaker bar to get the filter off. Whoever the gorilla is at the plant that puts those on, really cranks them down!

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, steelcity said:

I don't know if torque specs really matter. On my first oil change I almost had to use a breaker bar to get the filter off. Whoever the gorilla is at the plant that puts those on, really cranks them down!

Lots report that problem.

 

Maybe also because they didn't smear a little oil on the gasket?

I've sometimes found that ones I installed seem to have 'gotten tighter' :P, but never seem to be as bad as removing the factory filter.

 

Haven't yet decided if I'm going to use the 'included' oil changes.  They weren't part of the program when I last purchased a new HD....I did use the included ones on the 1500's.

Duelin Enthusiast

Duelin

Posted
Posted

I don't know about the new 5.3s but on the older ones the torque for the filter was 30N-m. With clean oil on the seal. And the drain plug was 25 N-m. I would think that the new 5.3s should be the same.

SierraHD17 Senior Enthusiast

SierraHD17

Posted
Posted

I just changed oil in my 17 today and I used the filter wrench to get it tight again.  No way was o getting 3/4 Of a turn with an oily hand lol.  My old filter I took off was leaking a little bit.. This one won't lol.

revrnd Senior Enthusiast

revrnd

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, redwngr said:

Lots report that problem.

 

Maybe also because they didn't smear a little oil on the gasket?

I've sometimes found that ones I installed seem to have 'gotten tighter' :P, but never seem to be as bad as removing the factory filter.

 

Haven't yet decided if I'm going to use the 'included' oil changes.  They weren't part of the program when I last purchased a new HD....I did use the included ones on the 1500's.

Up until '86, the assembly plants were req'd to 'dress' the oil filters. I seem to recall the 2WD C/K trucks got the shorter filter while the 4WDs, the longer. One of our duties in the tool room was adding a 3/8" drive socket to the typical oil filter socket. The operator would install the filter w/ an air tool.

4x4Pete Enthusiast

4x4Pete

Posted
Posted

The dealer performed only one of the included oil changes on my 6.0. The put 8 qts of 0w20 and a pf63 filter.  They were chewed out pretty good for that fumble. I drained the oil and added 6 qts of 5w30 and left the filter until the next oil change. They must have used loctite on the filter threads. The filter was so tight  it was destroyed getting it off I  even had to use an air chisel on the edge to remove it. Completely ridiculous. Safe to say not ever going there again.  I do my own changes now pf48 or equivalent... use an oil filter strap type wrench...tighten enough to not leak.  

Cowpie Senior Enthusiast

Cowpie

Posted
Posted

I just run my 2500 up on a couple of HD Rhino ramps for plenty of clearance to change oil, lube front end, etc.   I have been changing oil since the 60's and have never "torqued" a filter.  Heck, I don't even torque diff cover bolts.  Guess I have just been doing this sort of thing for so long I just go by feel.  Never had an issue.  Just simple 3/4 turn after contact.  Same on everything from my cars on up thru my commercial class 8 trucks.   I do ditch the factory drain plug at the first oil change and replace it with a Fumoto drain valve.  Makes things much nicer.

gearheadesw Senior Enthusiast

gearheadesw

Posted
Posted

I also am running the longer 63 filter, had problems on the '16 work truck regular cab oil filters, the oil filter land on the work truck must not have been machined flat, had to crank down any brand filter hard for no leaks. Have also bought and will install the Fumoto oil valve on the next oil change. 

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, 4x4Pete said:

The dealer performed only one of the included oil changes on my 6.0. The put 8 qts of 0w20 and a pf63 filter.  They were chewed out pretty good for that fumble. I drained the oil and added 6 qts of 5w30 and left the filter until the next oil change. They must have used loctite on the filter threads. The filter was so tight  it was destroyed getting it off I  even had to use an air chisel on the edge to remove it. Completely ridiculous. Safe to say not ever going there again.  I do my own changes now pf48 or equivalent... use an oil filter strap type wrench...tighten enough to not leak.  

Clearly the 'oil changer' didn't know 6.2 and 6.0 weren't the same!   

 

Did the paperwork they give you indicate what was used? 

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