Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

F1EBADAC-9C79-44A2-9CD2-FA26E1E84C9E.thumb.jpeg.240699a05ba1dafec0665f4299b317d5.jpegEibach pro truck kit ( springs + shocks ) 

+2.5” front 

stock rear height 

22” stock rims

Atturo trail blade m/t 

33X12.50R22

 

 

48F9203E-FCAF-4BFA-9626-9387CBC388EA.jpeg

Edited by BugzzyZ71
  • Like 1
Posted
Eibach pro truck kit ( springs + shocks ) 
+2.5” front 
stock rear height 
22” stock rims
stock tires for now 
 
63F75DF2-D77C-42E5-B7C1-2F7445D56F8F.thumb.jpeg.042e7c27ca922420ac9b5fe9a1932a70.jpeg



I like you’re style!

6f2929c262fad4a4639f81847d9b9ce9.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I need to get the back up another inch but it is also on a slight slope.

20190526_104754.thumb.jpg.4059baaf2eb18461c5270c10883d5ebf.jpg20190526_104329.thumb.jpg.ecf07f27f18c0f923d9920b66a683eed.jpg

Posted

Can anyone speak as to the difference in bottom spacer vs top spacers?   Ride quality, west/tear or anything? Looking to level my 14 LTZ and there are just a lot of choices out there.  

Posted

Cognito leveling kit with uca's, bilstein 5100s all around, Toyo open country ATII 295/60/20b2cef2d586f1cbb8bc1bb9170c8d679a.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I'll add to the thread!

 

ProComp 2.25" leveling kit

275-60-20 Falken Wildpeak AT3W - pictures do NOT do the sidewall tread justice.  These tires look really good in person.  They look similar to the BFG KO2 sidewall imo, with the BFG KO2 sidewall being slightly more aggressive looking and pronounced. 

 

Love this setup! Just did it on Saturday.

 

ZX6KFRx.jpg

 

1PEyCjH.jpg

 

xLZnqaw.jpg

 

03vBRP4.jpg

Edited by SkiDooNick700
Posted

Stock wheels and tires, but only a 1.5" level. 

IMG_20190602_131153_982.thumb.jpg.0a54ce8815a5e84ae197049cf0d66b3f.jpg

I have 5100s to go in  just trying to decide if I sure put them in @ 3/4" with the 1.5" block or take out the block and put them in at the top notch. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 2/28/2018 at 6:14 PM, Gingerly said:

these are the exact rimes i have and the exact tires i want to put on them

i have the same rim with the 275/55/20s stock n want to go to 305/60/20s at2 extremes.

no lift yet. any ideas on how much lift id need to pull this off? im thinking 2.5 in frnt w 1/2 spacers. on stock rims now but want fuel d509s 20/9 +20 offsets in future. shud this work? or will i have issues? tnxs

 

 

On 2/28/2018 at 10:48 AM, Crazy Schooner said:

2" BDS level. 285/60R20 Duratrac tires

Lund%20install-X3.jpg

 

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

2018 GMC All Terrain

Bilstien 5100s all around (front at highest setting)

Stock blocks in back

Stock UCAs

295 55 20 Ridge Grapplers

No Spacers

Minimum Rubbing at FULL lock on UCA

Tuck.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a 2015 Silverado and sometimes I can not get in to the truck. I use the key to unlock the driver door. Something is locking the truck when I unlock it, last night I left the truck open and this morning it was locked with the mirrors folded in. This happens while driving so it is now a safety issue. I reach down for the folding button and they open, then they close again.  Any advice, thank you,   Ed
    • Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...